First Page
Posted 06/27/2016 2:06 pm
Quote:
LCMH, the same situation exits with all collectables. Pocket knives, cars, sports memorabilia, etc. And if you think you've got it figured out, you're doing better than I am.
An auction is basically a market test based on the circumstances. No two people are likely to agree, and the circumstances may never be the same.
LCMH, the same situation exits with all collectables. Pocket knives, cars, sports memorabilia, etc. And if you think you've got it figured out, you're doing better than I am.
An auction is basically a market test based on the circumstances. No two people are likely to agree, and the circumstances may never be the same.
I find it best to look at all available resources to get a general idea of what a particular coin is selling for. I then have an idea of what I might expect to pay. No matter what coin I purchase, I always feel like I pay retail and very rarely feel as if I "stole" the coin. Condition is everything when determining a price and that is what you need to try to focus on when evaluating the coin.
For example: an AU-58 Type 1 1917 Standing Liberty quarter can have multiple prices from different resources. What those resources won't/can't tell you is the condition it is in. A blast white example of that coin in the same grade will sell higher than one with dark or yellowish toning.
Look at the coin, evaluate and determining what you are comfortable the value is based off a "general" consensus of all available resources is the best way to go IMHO.
