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Replies: 123 / Views: 13,122 |
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Valued Member
 United States
418 Posts |
I guess I'm just being an inpatient child because I want one 
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Valued Member
 United States
418 Posts |
But I guess I'll calm down and look at some in person at various shops. I'll be in NH, MA, CT, and RI over the next 10 days.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Fools rush in. There will ALWAYS be umpty-numbers of these for sale in any grade you want. Study, study and study. Show us ones you are serious about.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I'd just put it in my Album and move on.
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Rest in Peace
United States
18456 Posts |
Yes do not settle for one just because it's slabbed by a Top TPG'er . Like they say buy the coin not the slab . The eye appeal has to hit you in the face . 
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Rest in Peace
United States
18456 Posts |
Quote: I'd just put it in my Album and move on.  Really ?
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Valued Member
 United States
418 Posts |
Well this VF20 pops out to me, but they want full retail.  
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Valued Member
 United States
418 Posts |
I keep finding myself saying, well if I'm gonna spend this much, then I might as well spend this much. So I'm thinking my limit will be $1,000 and I'll get the best I can for that. Hopefully borderline AU / MS.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1667 Posts |
Just keep saving and looking and the right coin at the right price will appear for you eventually. A coin like that, a key date, are being bought and sold all the time people trying to make a couple bucks, people trying to sell and losing a couple buck's just to get rid of something they over spent on at the wrong time and need the cash It's an ongoing cycle, If you really watch it you'll even see the same coin switching hands a few times a month if there's meat on the bone and a few bucks can be made.
Patience is the key here and then the right situation. I know you want the coin now, but it would benefit you greatly to instead look at it from a coin dealer perspective and not pay full retail for whatever you settle on.. even get comfortable with grading and values to a point where you buy and sell, and flip your way up to the coin you are most happy with as the one that completes your set and your finally done. It's those "gotta sell" situation where there's meat left on the bone that you can flip and make a few bucks and you'll feel like you're also getting something done and on your way to that 1909S vdb that either completes your collection, or so good it forces you to upgrade the others to be in the same album with it.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3486 Posts |
An observation... Because it was the first year of issue 1909 cents were saved. And today they are available in great numbers. But the second-class 1914-D cent was largely ignored. I remember this bit of wisdom: "Go to any sufficiently large coin show and you will see several 1909-S VDB cents offered for sale. But there will be FEW 1914-D cents available." Reading through this topic I get the feeling that there is an unspoken undercurrent: "PRIDE OF OWNERSHIP" No matter what TPG name is on the label, if the coin does not provide pride of ownership then what is the point? Sure, the S-VDB is the holy grail of Lincolns. And I would never advise any collector to avoid the hunt. But patience IS to be exercised.. And IF...... On a given day a so-so example of the 1909 and an eye-popping 1914 were offered.... I think that I would buy the 1914! Memo to Joecontois -- remember, if the 1909-S-VBD coin does not offer you pride of ownership then pass -- there will be another available soon enough!
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Valued Member
 United States
418 Posts |
Thank you for the advice guys. But I'm starting to think that I might just get a low end one. There's one at $500 right now that's a VG10 straight grade. If I can get it for $500, then I will be upgrading from an ungraded VG details coin to a graded VG10 straight grade, for $50 more. I'm thinking there's no bids because the planchet has streaks in it. But to me it kind of looks like sunlight, and it doesn't bother me. I guess we'll see. The auction ends in about 6 hours.
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Valued Member
 United States
418 Posts |
Crap. So this was the first time I've ever bid on ebay but I knew it would come down to the end, and I noticed the " ebay will bid for you" thing, so the guy must've utilized that and put in a higher price than my final last second bid of 547 because he got it for 557. It was kind of a turd anyway. But man what a rush!
Edited by Joecontois 06/30/2019 9:09 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Chill out. You have no idea what his top bid was. Move on to the next one. These are dirt-common in this price range. 
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Valued Member
 United States
418 Posts |
So basically there's not a strict time limit. Yes, it ends, but really, whoever puts in the highest offer will win.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: I know you want the coin now, but it would benefit you greatly to instead look at it from a coin dealer perspective and not pay full retail for whatever you settle on.. Collectors don't have that luxury, not for quality anyways and especially not on more expensive coins without getting lucky. The majority of the time more expensive coins are bought below market is because they're low end for the grade or lack eye appeal which are the purchases most often regretted later on. Quality costs money and knowing when to pay up for it is one of the hardest lessons that collectors have to learn which often times many do not. Generally speaking when something is a lot cheaper than it should be there is a reason why someone is willing to do that. Quote: But I'm starting to think that I might just get a low end one. Just to clarify low end high end and low grade high grade are too very different concepts. Every grade has a low end and a high end. Whether you go low or high grade you should aim for an upper end of the grade premium example. It'll cost a little more but you'll enjoy it more and a lot of people shy away from lower end examples of a grade if you decided to sell later on.
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Replies: 123 / Views: 13,122 |