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 Replies: 10 / Views: 2,594 |
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
1295 Posts |
Hi There, I've been a bit cautious about purchasing 'proof' 3d from the 50's and 60's basically because they're all just carded with no 'certificate' as such. There's no guarantee to my eye that it actually *is* a proof coin or not. Here's an ebay auction, for example: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/PROOF-1963m-...cmdZViewItemTo me that coin doesn't look like a better strike than some ex-roll 1964 3d I have in hand. So what gives? Am I better sticking to buying these 'proofs' from a reputable brick'n'mortar store? By the way, does the coin in the auction look cleaned? I'm not anything even approaching an expert but there seems to be a lot of parallel hairline scratches across lizzie's face.... Look forward to some advice on this one. Mark |
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
9428 Posts |
Hi Mark. I'm no expert either, but that coin doesn't look the best. Apart from what looks to be scratches, the facial features don't look very strong either. I received a 1963 Three pence recently in a lower grade, it appears to have more detail in the face area. Regards Steve  |
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
853 Posts |
It can be difficult to tell Aussie predecimal proofs apart from normal circulating coins...particularly if comparing to a ChUnc or GEM example. Some early proofs were struck from normal dies that were specially polished.
Keep in mind that a proof coins is a proof coin regardless of condition. In other words a proof coin that is scratched is still a proof but could be described as an impaired proof. This is because proof is not a grade but rather a method of manufacture.
When buying a proof you should keep in mind you are buying a perfectly made coin. The blank used is specially prepared and should exhibit even colouring with no faults. The strike will be spectacular showing all detail. The detail should be sharp and even. The coin should be on centre.
The last trick is to see through imperfections caused by poor storage and handling over time. My last advise is alway buy predecimal proofs from someone reputable.
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
1529 Posts |
Mmmmmm...hard to call without seeing the coin in the flesh. Here is a scan of the 3P taken from my 4 coin proof set for you to make a comparison.   Edited by lim118
05/02/2006 06:16 am
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
1262 Posts |
Looks a little different to lim's coin, but could be the photography.
Oh well in for a penny in for a pound....go for it.
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
853 Posts |
Nice coin lim...I just picked up the same 4 coin set last week as well as 1963 perth penny and halfpenny proofs.
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Valued Member
Australia
161 Posts |
If I was to start buying pre-decimal proofs I would only buy from reputable dealers and would be prepared to pay extra to know you're getting what you're after.
Also why settle for anything that's not perfect? If you want one wait until you see a real good one and pay that bit more.
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Valued Member
Australia
161 Posts |
They have the 6d and 1/- listed too but none look good enough to tempt me at all.
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Pillar of the Community
 Australia
1295 Posts |
Well I wont be buying that one. There's been a couple BIN proofs on ebay from dealers I know of and I would happily purchase from those people. I sent that chap an email and he says he bought it from Downies who in turn purchased it from an RBA auction. It all *sounds* good. But if I am going to spend $150-200 on these I'd rather be happy it is the genuine artifact. |
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
853 Posts |
The story is possibly believable as Downies ran the RBA auctions.
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Valued Member
119 Posts |
Mark, that 3d looks pretty good. I'd have no doubts that it's a proof. Also you often see fine lines (which when you look closely are raised) that are caused by minor scratches on the surface of the die when it is cleaned.
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Replies: 10 / Views: 2,594 |
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Posted 05/01/2006 7:46 pm
