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Replies: 112 / Views: 14,627 |
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New Member
United States
43 Posts |
That makes sense, Americanmfia. The main reason I mentioned that was my observation of the apparent "3" after the first cleaning of the one coin. This suggested such radical means might not have been necessary to determine the date.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1291 Posts |
3...? I'll be surprised if it's a 3. Most likely a "0", as in 1920.
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New Member
United States
43 Posts |
1st coin after 1st cleaning, trimmed to the date area, with contrast amped up to a ridiculous level:   Could see where it might be a "3" or a "0" with a ding.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1291 Posts |
Woo-hoo! Well, sort of... I just had the tiniest bit of success tonight working with the nitric acid. (10% concentration) The quarter I worked with was the second one pictured way back on my original post on page 1 of this thread. It's also the one pictured on the first page in my THIRD comment on that page. AND...it is also the same quarter that the acetic acid had absolutely no effect upon. I brushed the nitric over the date area and as soon as it started to bubble (YES...it was bubbling) I washed it off. Here is what it looked like immediately after that:  I applied the nitric again and let it bubble for about 10 seconds and then rinsed it off and examined it closely. I still saw nothing. Here is what it looked like at this point:  I repeated the process again and after I rinsed it this time I clearly saw a 3! It was as weak as it could be, but in my hand with my magnifier there was no doubt in my mind I was seeing the entire numeral. I doubt that you'll see it, but here's the photo at that point:  So now, I got greedy and I left the next application of nitric on a little longer, like maybe 25 seconds before I washed it off. My 3 became practically indecipherable! Rats! But the 1 and part of the 9 had begun to take shape. Here's the final photo for tonight:  I'm thinking that I need to dilute my acid to the point where it either doesn't bubble at all or bubbles so little that I will be able to look through the liquid and watch, watch, watch to see if any numerals begin to show themselves, much like I'm able to do when I treat just the date area of a Buffalo nickel. One final comment: Remember that quarter I darkened with the Nic-a-date? (there are photos in this thread) When I applied some nitric on the darkened date area of THAT quarter it did NOTHING. It didn't bubble, it didn't alter the degree of the dark satin...nothing! And I left it on a good 10 minutes before I washed it off. I wonder what's up with that?
Edited by weerdsteev 08/24/2010 08:13 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
672 Posts |
With the darkened quater you have is a silver chloride compound...?( correct me if my chemistry is wrong), which has completly diffrent properties than the original silver. On the nic a date coin you are working with a completly diffrent animal than a silver copper compound. If you wanted to test my theroy take some sandpaper to the nic a date coin like on the edge or somthing and rub till it is silver again and put the acid on it.. it should bubble then.
Edited by Americanamafia 08/23/2010 10:38 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2602 Posts |
Wow, how did I miss this thread? This is near and dear to me, as I've been trying different methods for about a year. I was involved in some of the earlier CCF threads referred too at the beginning of this thread by weerdsteev. I tried single chemicals and some chemical combinations. I'll pm you weerdsteev and tell you some things I've tried that failed miserably, so you don't waste too much effort.
Edited by mycrob 08/25/2010 12:29 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3294 Posts |
It might just be my imagination, but I think I can still see part of the 3.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1291 Posts |
Thanks David! I pm'd you back. Nod - Yep, it's still there, just not as nicely as it was before I got greedy and left the nitric on too long.
I think the 3 is the strongest digit on any 1923, Philadelphia or San Francisco, so it stands to reason that it might be the only digit one could reasonably expect to restore on a quarter from THAT year.
I think I read somewhere that a lot of the 1921s were real strong strikes so I'm hoping I can uncover that second 1 on one of the many NON mint marked SLQs that I have on hand.
Edited by weerdsteev 08/25/2010 4:53 pm
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Valued Member
United States
462 Posts |
So now that you have some relief showing on the potential 1923, can you do a rubbing with some charcoal and rice paper or something similar? Has anyone ever tried such a thing?
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New Member
United States
43 Posts |
Yeah, that last pic certainly looked like a 1923 starting to show up. I must admit to being very skeptical that the density differences would be sufficient for this to work. Very interesting... looking forward to seeing continued progress.
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Valued Member
United States
314 Posts |
Weerdsteev, we're all confident that if anyone can do it you certainly can. Be extra careful, read all label instructions, make sure there is proper ventilation and keep us informed. We are all entranced by your efforts. Still sitting here with popcorn (  ) Good luck, Dcreek1968
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Valued Member
United States
450 Posts |
Weerdsteev,
I appreciate you taking this project on, and sharing the results with us. I have long wondered if it was possible to restore the SLQ dates like the Buffalo's.
Hang in there and dont lose and fingers along the way !
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1409 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
450 Posts |
Weerdsteev,
Another poster mentioned earlier in this thread about a product that does what your attempting to do that was on the market in the 1960's.
Have you tried to find it ? It might be easier that attempting to reinvent the wheel !
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2589 Posts |
Its no longer for sale, I assume the chemicels were so strong that they were too hazardous, Silver etchents can be quite nasty.
i definately see that 1 and 9 forming, good work!
-XoG
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Replies: 112 / Views: 14,627 |