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 Replies: 162 / Views: 29,586 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4132 Posts |
I still have tons of dateless and partial dates that I haven't even really looked at yet, so I'm hoping I can find some duplicates of the keys I've already found and trade those for some of the later dates. I also hope to trade some of my other CRH finds (war nickels, silver dimes, doubled dies...).
One tough part is the big pile where the mint-mark area is mostly worn off. I've used the Nic-A-Date on a few of those to see if there's a mint-mark, and sometimes there is, but sometimes it's impossible to tell which one. I did get fill my 1918-S hole that way last night though, and the '13-D type 2 just showed a blob there before I hit it with the acid.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10635 Posts |
I just might take the challenge myself. What is a good price for dateless Buffalos?
-Les
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Pillar of the Community
United States
687 Posts |
Most of the dealers will sell them to you for $0.40 though if you're a regular, you can often get a better price like say $0.10 - I try to pay around $0.20 on ebay myself, but it's only worth it if you buy big lots. Just bought a 1919D from a dealer's "dateless" stock today for $0.10. I'd say it's in the G4 range. Within the last few months I've bought a 1913D Type 1 (FR2), a 1913S Type 1 (FR2), a 1914D (FR2) and two 1914S (AG3) all out of dealer's junk dateless piles. And that's all without acid dating. The challenge is definitely doable. Edited by RollHunter
07/07/2011 11:17 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
I got a lot for 11.7 cents per coin, but it included quite a few ugly and dark coins, and a lot that have already been acid dated. But it also produced all the key dates I have, and I've only started going through it. the 1914-D had already been acid dated by somebody else, but I guess they weren't very careful.
I generally don't want to pay more than 15 cents apiece, and I don't want lots that have already had the mint-marked coins picked out, cause almost all the tougher dates are from the branch mints.
I actually don't mind the really ugly coins. In fact, with the exception of some of my roll-hunting finds to which I have sentimental attachment, I am going to keep the very ugliest ones I have so I can get top dollar for my surplus.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo
07/07/2011 11:26 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Some coins restore better than others. It seems like a few have particularly large metal crystals which makes them a lot harder to read. I need some other eyes on this one to confirm what I'm seeing.  If you see what I see, then I've got a second 1913-S Type 2. I'll sell the other one (which is nicer and has a more readable date), which I think will cover most of my budget shortfall. Holes remaining:1915-S 1918-D 8/7 (doesn't count) 1923-S 1924-D 1924-S 1926-S 1927-S 1929-S 1930-S 1931-S 1935-S 1936-S 1937 1937-D 1937-D 3 legged (doesn't count) 1937-S 1938-D 76.6% complete |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Any opinions on that last picture? Am I correct in reading it as 1913?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2602 Posts |
Yes it is a 1913. I meant to write in earlier and forgot. 1913 and 1915 can sometimes be hard to tell apart when acid treated, though, so you have to be careful. That one above is clearly a 1913.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3345 Posts |
I blew the pic up, looks like a 1913 to me.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Awesome. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't engaged in wishful thinking again. I've just about finished with the acetone cleaning of the dirty pile. Almost all the mint-marked dateless I have left are D. I haven't had great success in restoring mint-marks on those with severely worn reverses. I can generally determine if it does or does not have a mintmark, but maybe 50/50 at best in being sure on what the mark actually is. Similar with "blob" mintmarks. I actually have quite a few dateless type 1, including a handful of D and S, and they go for a several bucks on ebay even in that condition. Restored date 1913-S type 2 seem to sell for 40-50 bucks or more, even kinda ugly ones. I have a few common full-dates that can probably get a buck or two, and dateless seem to go for 6-8 bucks a roll, even without mint-marks. I wouldn't be surprised if I actually came out with a profit after selling off my current surplus. Edited by CaptainFwiffo
07/15/2011 4:07 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2602 Posts |
Cool! Take the surplus then and upgrade the set!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Well, I still have to fill some holes, so I'll need the surplus for that. Anyway, this is going to be a cheap-as-possible ugly set. It'd be a shame to gather together so many ugly beefalos and not keep them together. Maybe I'll start a separate "nice" set later.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
Something weird... Among the "ugly" lot I got are a lot of acid dated coins. I figured they were just common dates that somebody had tossed aside. A lot of them are just that, but somebody obviously wasn't very careful. The 1914-D I found was already acid dated by somebody, and had a clear mint mark. Now I just found another 1913-D type 2, which had been acid dated. The mint-mark area was worm smooth, so maybe they just figured it was Philly. But Nic-a-Date revealed a clear D. Maybe the date was too grainy for them to read the date (it's not as bad as the one I just posted, but it's pretty bad). Either way, it seems like there are great finds even in lots of coins that have been aggressively picked over.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1080 Posts |
captain -- I'm not quite following your discussion about identifying dateless 1920 and 1921...
I see the ribbon wave that is only in '20 and '21 nickels, but I don't see the hair detail you describe in 1920 only. Can you post a photo that tells me where I should be looking?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1080 Posts |
oh - I think I got it... there is EXTRA detail on the 1921? See if this illustration captures the comparison:  |
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Replies: 162 / Views: 29,586 |
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Posted 07/07/2011 11:02 pm
