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Collecting Coins On The Cheap: The Buffalo Nickel Challenge

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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
United States
4132 Posts
 Posted 06/28/2011  9:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
While looking for a better example of a 1921, I found this... It has the hair detail which I think is only on the 1921 and it has a mintmark, which means it must be a 1921-S, right? Am I getting unreasonably lucky or am I just full of wishful thinking?

Collecting-Coins-On-The-Cheap:-The-Buffalo-Nickel-Challenge

Collecting-Coins-On-The-Cheap:-The-Buffalo-Nickel-Challenge

Collecting-Coins-On-The-Cheap:-The-Buffalo-Nickel-Challenge
Pillar of the Community
United States
687 Posts
 Posted 06/29/2011  01:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add RollHunter to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
That's a 21-S for sure (but you knew I'd say that). Congrats! I had to pay almost $1 for mine, so good job. I've never actually found one dateless - I'm curious if ANACS will authenticate it?

The post before this looks like a 20D to me. I don't see a 4 at all. That triangle you see is the area between the bottom half of the 2 and the 0. The 0 in a 1920 stays readable for a VERY long time - it's one of the more common partials.

This is what a partial 14 (and it is a 14D) can look like:

Collecting-Coins-On-The-Cheap:-The-Buffalo-Nickel-Challenge
Edited by RollHunter
06/29/2011 02:01 am
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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4132 Posts
 Posted 06/29/2011  02:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
You're right, of course. I have a bunch of '20 partials in various states of wear, I'm surprised I didn't recognize it as such, but the middle of the 0 wasn't as round as in the other's I've seen. I was surprised how much it looked like the partial '14-P I have.

But '21-S! That and the '13-D T2 from yesterday make this a good batch already, and I've only just started going through it.

Probably in its current condition it's not worth sending in the 21-S, but I'm very confident it is the real deal.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo
06/29/2011 02:36 am
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biggfredd's Avatar
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9104 Posts
 Posted 06/29/2011  03:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add biggfredd to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
looks like a 20d and a 23 to me.
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nod2003's Avatar
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3294 Posts
 Posted 06/29/2011  08:46 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nod2003 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Also, they did not make a 21D for nickels.
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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4132 Posts
 Posted 06/29/2011  09:24 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
@biggfredd - what makes you say 23?
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mycrob's Avatar
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2602 Posts
 Posted 06/29/2011  10:18 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mycrob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Coin at the top that is a dateless S is definitely a 1921. The coin on previous page is definitely a 20-D. 20 and 21 coins have very wavy hair ribbons and the 21 is distinguished from the 20 by extra hair groove details above the wrap.
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Changeless's Avatar
273 Posts
 Posted 06/29/2011  11:21 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Changeless to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Collecting from circulation, my favorite. You just never know... wife pulled a silver War Nickel from the bottom of her purse the other day... "Oh look, a nickel!" I picked up two (bank) rolls of nickels at the Grocery store, searched them in the parking lot... result... one nice buffalo.... so I picked up another 20 rolls at the bank... nothing but nickel dust. You just never know.
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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4132 Posts
 Posted 06/29/2011  12:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Alright, I need to break down clean some of these coins. Yes, I know and respect rule #1 (don't) and rule #2 (see #1) of cleaning coins. But this is one of those exceptions (at a minimum, I need a clean surface before I acid treat any of them).

I don't want to remove any corrosion, verdigris or dark toning. I am quite happy for these coins to remain ugly. I just want to remove the foreign matter, which is basically just the usual caked-on, greasy, sticky, black crud that old coins accumulate. And I want to be gentle, even though these are junk coins, because I have found a few valuable partial dates.

Which of the following is my best bet?

1) Just warm water (I doubt this will do the job)
2) Dish soap and water and some gentle rubbing (they're already really worn coins, so any minor hairlines I add by rubbing won't make a difference, but is soap too harsh?)
3) A soak in acetone (OK for cupronickel?)
4) A soak in xylene (I don't know anything about this)
5) A commercial coin cleaning product (which one?)
6) Something else...

I'd like a method that I can use on a bunch of coins at once, because I've got several bunches. Any tips would be appreciated.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo
06/29/2011 1:05 pm
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biggfredd's Avatar
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 Posted 06/29/2011  5:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add biggfredd to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It's iffy, I'll grant you. I'm seeing roundness of the bottom, but it could be something other than a 3, I guess.
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biggfredd's Avatar
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 Posted 06/29/2011  5:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add biggfredd to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
3a) boil them in acetone.
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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4132 Posts
 Posted 07/02/2011  9:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I feel unreasonably lucky... I hadn't done anything with this for a few days because I've been busy, but I finally got to them today. I wasn't planning on doing any more acid until I had finished sorting them out with partial dates and mintmarks and cleaning them up and whatnot. However, this one caught my eye after it was given the acetone bath.

It had a nice, clear D mintmark and somebody before me had struck-out acid-dating it. There was the ugly splotch in the date area, but not even the slightest hint of a date, and there was no F visible. I figured "what the heck, I can't make it worse, and since I've cleaned up the surface, maybe I'll have better luck".

Well, I did. It came out instantly.

Collecting-Coins-On-The-Cheap:-The-Buffalo-Nickel-Challenge

Collecting-Coins-On-The-Cheap:-The-Buffalo-Nickel-Challenge

If that's not a 1914-D, I'll eat my shorts.
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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4132 Posts
 Posted 07/05/2011  9:02 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I've been busily sorting out partial dates, figuring out semi-obscured mint-marks, and giving acetone baths to the grimier coins. Mostly I've only been using the Nic-a-Date on the most supremely ugly (mangled, black, rusty, hewn...) and those that had been acid-dated by somebody else before they got to me. Basically just playing with the ones I couldn't possibly ruin.

Today I finally took a break and let myself Nic-a-Date just one from the coveted pile of clean, mint-marked, dateless nickels. Lo-and-behold, it was one of the fastest and clearest, and the best find so far:

Collecting-Coins-On-The-Cheap:-The-Buffalo-Nickel-Challenge

Collecting-Coins-On-The-Cheap:-The-Buffalo-Nickel-Challenge

I seem to have hit all the hardest key dates now, 1913-D Type 2, 1913-S Type 2, 1914-D and 1921-S. I still have hundreds of coins to go through. I think '24-S and '26-S are going to be the hardest, because a lot fewer are going to be dateless.

I took some time to put some in the book so I can track my progress:

Holes remaining:
The book is more than half full, so it's shorter than a list of those collected.
1914-S
1915-S
1916-S
1918-D 8/7 (doesn't count)
1923-S
1924-D
1924-S
1925-D
1926-S
1927-S
1929-S
1930-S
1931-S
1934
1935-D
1935-S
1936-D
1937
1937-D
1937-D 3 legged (doesn't count)
1937-S
1938-D
68.8% complete

Sourced coins:
Coin roll hunting (7 coins @ $0.35; 5¢ ea.)
Type 1 included with Nic-A-Date (1 coin @ FREE)
Lot 1 (107 no and partial date; from ebay @ $18.95 incl. shipping; 17.7¢ ea.)
Lot 2 (500+ no and partial date ugly; from ebay @ $57.75 incl. shipping; 11.6¢ ea.)

Surplus:
Need to do more sorting. Lots. Some better dates.

Supplies (not counted toward total):
Dansco 7112 Album ($21.95)
946 ML White Vinegar, 5% acidity ($1.19)
Nic-A-Date ($7.49 incl. shipping)
Stack-On 39 Drawer Storage Cabinet (for sorting these and other coins, $19.96)

Total invested: $77.05 ($55.10 over budget)

I'll need to be able to unload my surplus at about 11¢ each to stay under the challenge budget.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo
07/05/2011 9:49 pm
Pillar of the Community
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687 Posts
 Posted 07/06/2011  01:29 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add RollHunter to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
1913-S type 2? Nice find! That one you can actually sell for money. I just acid dated 2 1913-D Type 2s myself, but that one has me beat.

I think you'll find the 1931S is going to be hard to find too.
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mycrob's Avatar
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2602 Posts
 Posted 07/06/2011  08:26 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mycrob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
24-s can be found in dateless lots occasionally. All 24 dated coins can be distinguished from the rest of the 20s also. Take a close look at 24P at the waviness of the ribbon. It's wavy like 20 & 21 but not as wavy. The other 20s have much straighter ribbon. Once you pick this up go to your dateless S pile and you could find one in there. Good luck!

I agree 26-s and 31-s will be biggest challenge.
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