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 Replies: 36 / Views: 4,729 |
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Valued Member
 United States
90 Posts |
I always check ebays past auctions for anything I'm bidding on. Great tool
Not sure about coin shops and shows. That's next thing I have to do
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2295 Posts |
That is great to check past auctions, since you never know what one may sell for. Prices can vary greatly between the various sellers. Best way to find a good deal, is shop around and compare. And become familiar with grading.
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Valued Member
United States
90 Posts |
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New Member
United States
6 Posts |
A couple of thoughts on this...
Foremost, I would be very careful displaying your collection. This invites theft and possibly personal injury. Just one of the downsides of the hobby. Albums can be pulled out for display and put away, so your cable installer doesn't see them.
Second, slabs are not airtight and the materials in that display (wood, glue, felt) will off-gas and penetrate the slab. This risk could be negligible, but if they stay in there for 10 years, for example, you could see some toning depending on how toxic the materials. You may choose to live with this to have a nice wooden display. Many people do.
You aren't locked down since you can always change the way you store and display in the future.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1116 Posts |
Personally, all my ASE that I have are not graded and those of mine that are extra special I put into my album. After I put them there if I find another example that of a particular year's coin that is better I just switch them out with the replaced coin going into a plastic roll holder. My proof and uncirculated mint coins are placed somewhere else. Mint packaging, while it does take extra space is not bothersome to me. Graded coins do have their place, but I feel that for the most part grading an ASE will not return the grading cost unless the coin grades high. If you want a graded set, then purchase a coin that already graded. Personally I would not purchase a coin that I can pick up at melt unless it is a "key" date or is a double die variety. If you choose wisely, you can pick up an impressive set very reasonablly. Especially if you are not in a hurry to assemble the set. This is what I consider is key, take your time and pick the right coin for you and your collection. |
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Valued Member
United States
284 Posts |
If you are looking at investment then why not just buy and trade/sell based on the bullion value? I have a hard time buying into the graded bullion idea. Maybe later on they may be worth something, but looking at prices right now on older graded proof eagles the return looks minimal at best. I honestly think that the whole graded eagle game is a gimmic and is akin to the graded coin bubble that burst back in the 80s-90s.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2295 Posts |
 , totally.  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1817 Posts |
All of the responses here on this thread are correct, the real question is how YOU want to enjoy and display them to yourself and trusted friends and family? Everyone that collects ASEs will have their own opinion of how to store and/or display, myself included.  I'm on the fence when it comes to TPG encapsulated modern coins, especially modern proofs as the majority of them will come back PR69 or 70, with the 69 as a "junk" grade. Makes no sense to pay $40-$50 extra for the plastic when you could spend that money on raw coin #2. It's really your personal preference as someone else stated. With the proof ASEs, you have to determine if you are going after a complete set or not. The official complete set includes the key 1995-W proof, otherwise you will only be able to complete a date set with some varieties, including the RPs. Storage is the next issue. If you buy slabbed coins, and keep them in the slabs, you are limited to Eagle branded albums made for slabs. They can fill up fast and are bulky. They can be also stored in PCGS or NGC boxes, but are not an efficient way to display and show off your collection (or even to admire them yourself), plus there is added risk of "misplacing" one or two when they are loose in a storage box. My preference is to buy the proofs in OGP either from a dealer or from the Mint. The box, felt case and capsule are of high quality. Many collectors stop there and keep the coin in its original packaging. I find that the capsule is not airtight enough, and usually transfer the coin into an Air-Tite branded capsule, but keep the OGP if I sell the coin (brings more with the paperwork COA & box included). As far as display, I use a Capital Plastics 1986-2006 20th Anniversary holder for the first 21 years of proofs. It's a 12"x 12" blue holder that's really impressive when completed. The subsequent years are in Air-Tites awaiting a similar holder. My bullion set is inside a Dansco, which includes the five burnished uncirculated coins as well. Raw coins gives you a bit more flexibility in storage and display. P.S.  ! Edited by Bizybackson
03/01/2012 11:31 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1903 Posts |
Here is how I see slabbing, based on my experience in the collectible firearms world ( when I say experience, I have bought and sold millions of dollars worth of collectible firearms). Slabbing a coin serves essentially two basic functions, to protect a coin or to say that at one place and time this coins was in "such and such" condition and this holder is supposed to keep it that way.
Based on these two standards, people buy or pay to have slabbed coins if.....
1) they like the idea their coin is protected in the best way possible (some people just like the security)
2) they want a coin of a particular grade to fill a hole in a collection
3) they hope to profit from a coin they bought raw receiving a high grade.
The first two are totally subjective and are at the whim of the individual, there is no right or wrong to it. It is #3 where many people have the wrong perspective. IF you are doing slabbing for profit.....only...and I mean ONLY have a coin slabbed if you feel it WILL grade in the top 1% of coins available already to the collector market. Even if you THINK it might not make the top 1%.... the collectors you will be selling to won't think it is in the top 1% either. Where real profit is made is in that top 1% of any collectible item, everything else is just speculation and usually dissapointment. Here is the real kicker though. In many types of coins (modern proofs are a great example) way more than 1% of the available population will grade at 70. This to me is a huge warning sign that long term this coin will NOT go up in value unless the available population is very low.
In summary, for profit seeking individuals, unless your coin will litterally grade in the top 1% of a coins available in a population, keep it raw and sell it to someone else who doesn't have this same perspective! :-)
Edited by unholyroller
03/01/2012 12:09 pm
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Valued Member
United States
90 Posts |
From what I see sell on ebay pr70 sell for a lot more than just being in mint box. Pcgs only charges 14 to grade it and 18 for (first strike). For $14 to me its worth grading. I never thought of that with the slabs being in the display case that could cause toning. Good point. |
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Valued Member
United States
90 Posts |
I am looking to one day have a complete set (some 70 some 69 depending on the price. I'm only buying the proofs I'm not buying the bullion or uncirculated ASE just proofs. |
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Pillar of the Community
2224 Posts |
Quote:
If you buy slabbed coins, and keep them in the slabs, you are limited to Eagle branded albums made for slabs. They can fill up fast and are bulky. The Eagle brand is nice, that's what I started with way back when, I could do better, but they do fill up fast. |
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Valued Member
United States
90 Posts |
Picked up 2002 pcgs 69 for $57
2004 (pr69) for 58
2000 69 for $67
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New Member
United States
6 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
90 Posts |
Quick question. Received a 2010 pr70. Coin has toning on it. What is the deal with that. Is the coin going to get worse over the years does it depend on where I store it.
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Posted 02/29/2012 3:13 pm
