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Replies: 18 / Views: 4,184 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
9796 Posts |
Ray said most above ^
You might want to try some diffuser between the light source and the coin, try a cut off gallon milk jug at the bottom over the coin, and shoot through it, or some tissue paper over the lights, (careful not to catch the tissue on fire if you lights are hot), even a piece of thin paper can help drastically with blown out high lights.
Also you could try setting up some white cards around the coin to help reflect light more evenly thereby eliminating the need to shine them directly on the coin itself, a reflector if you will.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440
Edited by westcoin 04/22/2012 5:28 pm
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Legende...Nice pics. Tell us more about your setup:
Camera? Lens? Lights (qty, type, clock placements, heights, angle to horizontal, diffusion)? Copy Stand or Tripod? Any special techniques?
...Ray
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
Thanks, Ray. Camera? Nikon D300Lens? AF-S Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8G ED I sometimes use AF-S VR Micro-NIKKOR 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED, with little difference in images. Lights (qty, type, clock placements, heights, angle to horizontal, diffusion)? Various, usually involving one or two Ott-Lites. These images were taken using my axial lighting device.Copy Stand or Tripod? I use a Manfrotto tripod with ball head. Any special techniques? I use a variety of diffusers/reflectors that I use.I place a level on the leaf of my desk and verify that it is level. Then I place the bubble level on the back of my camera, on the plastic guard for the monitor. This ensures that camera and leaf of desk are parallel. I shoot straight down at the coin or token for most images. Don't get me wrong -- once a camera is squarely set on a copy stand, it's hard to beat. But my situation is compact, and tripod legs can go beneath the leaf of my desk, whereas they cannot go under the desk itself. I use a remote trigger, but a self-timer is also good. I can see Live View on my computer if I wish and control camera's focus and exposure, and most settings, from the computer. I usually don't bother with that anymore but it was informative to use it when learning how. If I did this professionally, I'd use the computer more in the shooting process. (Camera must be within USB cord distance to access camera on the computer.)  Blue circle represents light source placed directly ahead of my homemade axial lighting device. Earlier model were simply two inexpensive 5x7 picture frames. My wife scored ten of them at a garage sale for 25¢ each. The model you see has a 3/4" curly maple base. Small 'baton' will keep upper frame at any angle I choose. The gooey stuff on the ends of the dowel rod is DAP or LocTite Mounting Putty, made by Henley. (Same stuff.) I set the angle of the glass while looking through the lens to see changes in lighting in real time. Looking from near the camera will not give the same view. .
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
Here are photos taken tonight with direct lighting from two Ott-Lites.    NOTE: Always hit Command-Zero to see photos at their proper size, your browser's default size. Enlarging with Command +++ can cause a decrease in resolution. Folks who can zoom their high-res monitors will have better luck. .
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Nice to have you here, La Legende. It's always a pleasure to welcome another serious student of the photography game, especially one like yourself who is so willing to share his knowledge.
Allow me to explain how to dispense with your levels, a technique Ray taught us: Place a small mirror on the coin's resting surface. Adjust the camera so that you see the center of the lens in the center of the frame. The camera and surface will then be precisely parallel, regardless of whether the surface is perfectly flat/level or not.
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New Member
United States
13 Posts |
That's a great tip, Dave. Makes sense. I'll try it soon.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
It's a pretty effective technique, especially if you're on a tripod having to reset for every session. I've gone to a bellows setup these days, so it's less-important for me, but anyone who's using that 1/4" thread on the bottom of the camera will benefit.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1795 Posts |
Not Bad...They look clear and you can see minor details which I consider important.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
very clean, I am assuming there is glass within this angled picture frame setup yes?
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New Member
Pakistan
4 Posts |
nice pictures here.i am fer from photography I want to expert in photography..that's why I join this forum.its really helpfull for every one.. thanks to all .
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Welcome piyakhan. I know nothing about Pakistani coins so am hoping to see some nice pics of some. Or do you do ancients, US, or ?
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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New Member
Pakistan
4 Posts |
thanks for welcome me .its mine pleasure...i'll show you some nice coins
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3076 Posts |
MORBIDSTEVE: Please excuse those who have hijacked your thread, wear as the intent..is your photo's your progress.......This is the intent of your post.... I liked what you have tried, and its results.... So I hope others "WILL GET BACK TO HELPING YOU" with your questions and ideas.... its to easy to get hijacked.............Gene
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Yep, we've been waiting 4 months for more photos...
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Replies: 18 / Views: 4,184 |
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