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Replies: 19 / Views: 2,724 |
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Valued Member
United States
179 Posts |
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
In most cases, the milling on genuine coins is much more sharply defined and more even, than on copies.
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Valued Member
 United States
160 Posts |
sel_69I -- to my untrained eye, the reeding looks even...
ambro51 -- what do you see that says "fake" to you?
Steve
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Valued Member
 United States
160 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8137 Posts |
It does look a little odd to me but I do not know why...
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: It does look a little odd to me but I do not know why...
Corrosion. Gold doesn't do that. You'd be hard-pressed even to stain gold with something that didn't come off under tapwater.
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Valued Member
United States
179 Posts |
The depressions on the 1 on the reverse are seen on many fakes. The roughness and raised lumps are not on genuine pieces, the weight is off, the color looks wrong.
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
I would be really worth looking at X Ray florescence testing for some coins. I dunno if the cost would be justified in this case; cost investigation is certainly worth looking into; that won't cost anything.
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Valued Member
 United States
160 Posts |
X-Ray flourescence, sel_69I? I never heard of that, and not sure where to even look (google, I guess! :) )
For what it's worth, I took the coin to three places in town; a "gold and silver" shop, a coin dealer, and a jewelry shop where the owner is "familiar with coins."
Each of the three suspect it to be genuine, although none could guarantee it and each noted that there are alot of fakes floating around. Each one was willing to buy the coin, one for $60, one for $70, and the coin dealer for $95. So, each believed "enough" in their opinion of the coin's validity to offer spot, or more. Not that this tells me anything with certainty...
Aside from "X-Ray fluorescence," or sending it in to PCGS or ANACS or someone (which, for this quality of coin would not seem that the expense is justified), do I have any other options to offer me any degree of certainty that this is not a fake?
Steve
Edited by sgoss66 12/17/2013 6:50 pm
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
I would take the $95 offer. There is too much going on with this coin, even if it is genuine (which I have my doubts).
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Valued Member
 United States
160 Posts |
I hear you, johnny...
Problem is, I simply wanted to have one in my collection that I don't have to pay an arm and a leg for, and selling this one puts me back at square one.
It's really frustrating that the counterfeiters have introduced this problem into the mix; basically the result is that in order to be SURE you are getting a genuine coin, you have to buy one that has been certified by one of only a few groups who can guarantee authenticity -- thus driving prices up DRAMATICALLY.
It's frustrating that we live in a world where greed runs amok, and honesty is often nothing more than a trite concept...
Anyway, enough whining on my part. Am I on track that, in order to end up with a one dollar coin that I can TRUST is genuine, that I will spend a minimum of about $250?
In fact, let me take this in a different direction...let's say I want to get a yes/no answer, once and for all, on whether this coin is genuine, or not. What is the least expensive way for me to do so? If I send it in to one of the coin grading companies, is there an option where they simply note it as being "genuine," or not -- and if so, what would the cost be? Is there any other, less expensive alternative?
Steve
Steve
Edited by sgoss66 12/18/2013 1:41 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
844 Posts |
SsuperDdave, my thought exactly on the corrosion issue. Didn't see it on the first set of photos, but the second ones he posted shown it well.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3184 Posts |
Just buy a NGC or PCGS slabbed one and have the piece of mind that you have a real gold coin vs a raw one that could be fake.
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Valued Member
 United States
160 Posts |
OK, guys, a little confused here...even if this coin IS a fake, which it very well may be, I still was of the understanding that many fakes are still gold...perhaps not 22K, maybe 20K, but still gold. Now, that being said, the idea that "corrosion shouldn't happen" that is being discussed here, would suggest that the concern is that the coin is NOT gold, right?
From that perspective, I can't imagine that this coin is not gold; unless I'm missing something, there's no other metal whose density is sufficient to allow this coin to weigh so close to the proper weight. My thought was (and I could be wrong) that if it were NOT gold, the weight would be WAY off. The "fake" possibility with this coin would be, in my mind, that is it GOLD (maybe 20K or something, but still substantially gold), but just a faked copy.
Am I wrong on all of that?
Also, yes, mkman123, I could buy a slabbed one -- but my guess is that I'm not touching a slabbed one for any less than 2.5 to 3 times more than I paid for this one...and I'm not sure I want to pay that much for one...
Steve
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Valued Member
 United States
160 Posts |
Thanks all for your help on this... Since you all have substantial concerns about this coin, I've decided to assume it to be a likely fake, and thus to send it back for a refund; the seller is a good guy and had no idea the coin might not be genuine -- and is willing to refund the purchase price. At this point, I guess I'm going to be looking for another one to replace this one. Seems like there's no real good way to buy one on ebay, without taking a substantial risk... Is my risk diminished any by buying a "raw/cleaned" coin, through one of the major dealers (such as APMEX?) Or, is there another way I can find one for a relatively modest price? Again, I'm not looking for a coin with any substantial numismatic value, just a genuine, decent one to have in my very modest "collection." Thanks all for your help, Steve
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