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Replies: 19 / Views: 5,367 |
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Valued Member
 United States
103 Posts |
Quote: Something to try....get a white paper plate and cut a hole in the middle just big enough to slide it over your lens and instead of pointing the jansjo's down at the coin, point them up into the plate. I have had great success doing this with certain coins Thanks for the tip. I'll have to give this a try. I had been trying to bounce the lights off of the white lid to a plastic tub, but it was very inconsistent.
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Valued Member
Canada
478 Posts |
You may still need to add some direct light...try a few different things like 2 pointing up and one pointing down etc. Lighting can be tricky
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
4911 Posts |
I see the good but not the bad and certainly not the ugly.
Feel free to call me Will.
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Valued Member
 United States
103 Posts |
I noticed this morning that the raw images on my computer are significantly sharper than the ones I posted above. I figured out something on that this morning. A lot of you are probably more technically savvy than me and may know this already, but I thought I would pass it along anyway.
When saving images from RAW into JPEG and selecting the Options button at the bottom of the page, I changed the Encoding Type dropdown menu from Standard to Progressive and this seemed to yield significantly better results. Even my compressed images were sharper than the uncompressed ones I uploaded to Photobucket yesterday and the file sizes are significantly smaller.
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Valued Member
Canada
478 Posts |
You did this in the camera software settings?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3453 Posts |
I with all those that say your ugly is better than my best. Welcome to CCF and I can't wait to see what you think is great! 
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Valued Member
 United States
103 Posts |
Quote: You did this in the camera software settings? This would only apply when you are shooting in RAW mode on your camera. You will not be able to save RAW images for upload onto photo sites like Photobucket. This will be under the Save As menu on your computer. There is an Options button at the bottom of the menu that allows you to control the quality of the JPEG you are saving by selecting a compression factor from 1-99 (1 being the highest quality.) I found that by changing the Encoding Type from Standard to Progressive you will be able to post much sharper JPEGs to the message board even when dropping the compression factor to 10 or 20. Your final image size should be less than 500KB.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
RAW is a completely different file format than JPG. Whether or not you shoot RAW files - you can shoot RAW, JPG or both (in which case you get two files for every shot), RAW has absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with in-camera JPG processing.
We shoot RAW to take JPG processing away from the pitiful processor in the camera, and do that processing on a computer with respectable hardware and software. RAW files must be postprocessed on a computer with bespoke software; heck, you can't even see that they're an image without that software. It is another level of software complexity, requiring another learning curve. I'd venture to say that *any* dSLR with a decent lens will shoot a JPG of far higher quality than you'll ever need to post online. RAW is where you go to eek out that last 1.5% of perfection.
OK. Advice:
1) Abandon Aperture Priority. You obviously understand shot settings; set them yourself.
2) Abandon Exposure Compensation. Of course your shots are dark; you're letting your camera darken them with minus Exposure Compensation.
3) Set aperture at f/8 and forget that setting exists.
4) Don't be afraid to increase ISO upwards of 100. Your camera should be up to providing excellent imagery at ISO 800, should you need (but you won't need it).
5) Your mileage may vary, but I've never seen a coin I couldn't shoot decently with more than two lights.
6) (Ray's gonna kill me for this) Double up a Kleenex and use that thickness of paper as a diffuser thrown directly over the end of your Jansjos. I think that'll help with coins similar to the 100 Francs.
Your results are not nearly as poor as you're thinking they are.
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Valued Member
 United States
103 Posts |
Quote: Double up a Kleenex and use that thickness of paper as a diffuser thrown directly over the end of your Jansjos. Thanks for the tips SsuperDdave. I used the Kleenex over two lights on the image below. I also threw in a third light undiffused at 12 o'clock to bring out some of the toning on this coin. Now this is what I am looking for. This one came in the mail this afternoon. Beautiful coin. Thanks for all the wonderful comments and support. Merry Christmas everyone!
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Valued Member
Canada
478 Posts |
Nice coin. It seems dark to me. hope you don't mind but I did about 30 seconds of editing and brightened it up a bit 
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Valued Member
 United States
103 Posts |
Quote: Nice coin. It seems dark to me. hope you don't mind but I did about 30 seconds of editing and brightened it up a bit Thanks. That's cool. I get that, but I guess what I am trying to do is present the coin as it looks in hand under normal lighting. This is a darkly toned coin and while it probably looks more like your edit under the intense lighting that most of us take photos with, if I handed you the coin for viewing in my kitchen under the over-head lights it would appear darker.
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Valued Member
Canada
478 Posts |
Fair enough! I was guessing at what it might look like. Your right, its best to represent the coin as it is and only you know what it looks like in hand
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
SD...such blasphemy, and on Christmas Eve! Not really of course. Kleenex (or perhaps Scotties?) are great for diffusers on the Jansjos, but (to remind everyone!) don't try that technique on anything else (like halogens) or you'll start a fire! However, I can't get behind your advice on Aperture Priority or Exposure Compensation. I couldn't live without them! But every photographer ends up with their own "best practices" techniques, and if you can work more directly with the camera, histograms, etc then no worries at all. I just want the camera to figure out the shutter speed for me, so I use Av and EV settings extensively.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
That's the last thing I'd have expected to hear from you, Ray.  I'd have thought you, of all people, would want to retain total personal control over the parameters of the shot. As I rationalize it, only exposure compensation has adjustments more subtle than standard shot settings (being capable of fractional stops of adjustment), and if 1/3 stop makes the difference in your shot, you've probably set it up wrong. And if Exposure Compensation is necessary, you've definitely set it up wrong. That's the whole purpose of exposure compensation, to make up for less-than-perfect situations. Happy Christmas, guys. Take a picture of something that isn't a coin today.
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Valued Member
 United States
103 Posts |
I have been working at my coin photography off and on for the past month or so and feel I am making some progress. I have been experimenting with axial lighting on the problem coins and that is helping on some but not others. I am shooting through a piece of glass with a single 60 watt incandescent bulb at anywhere from 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock at a very low angle from the coin. I am not sure about the angle of the glass. I have it propped up with soup cans on either side. On some of the shots I block the light from directly hitting the coin and others I do not. I have found that I like the direct light better as the outlines of the devices are quite dark otherwise. All of the coins below were shot with the light hitting the coins directly. The problems I've had with using axial lighting are primarily difficulties in getting the light at the correct angle to coin while also covering the entire coin with ambient light, very slow shutter speeds and getting the white balance correct. I also find that there is usually a hot spot on the coin that I can't get rid of no matter where I move the light. Diffusion in this instance does not seem to work well because it flattens the contrast too much for my liking and leaves the image too dark. Does anyone ever use two large lights when axial lighting? Here are some examples of coins I have previously posted here: Of all the coins I posted previously this one looked about the worst. With the axial lighting this coin looks much more like it does in hand, plus I love the way the devices are brought to life.  I like the way this one turned out, but I'm not entirely sure it accurately portrays the coin. This is a circulated coin and this photo makes it look like those circulated coins you see on E-bay under titles screaming: BU Mint State GEM. I am still trying to figure out how to strike a balance between photographing the coin looking like it does under a 20x loupe and one where the photo has clearly been manipulated. (This is a great learning tool for spotting manipulated photos on E-Bay.)  This is one of the few well-circulated coins that came out nicely with axial lighting that I have shot over the past few weeks. It is certainly much better than the previous image I posted in this thread. Again I like how the devices stand out. It seems to me that the Standing Liberty quarters are very difficult to get looking like they do in hand.  This one I do not like so much. It has sort of a surreal look to it. I am still having trouble shooting gold coins. In that regard I suppose it is good that I don't have many of them. In general I had trouble getting good shots of smaller coins because as my lens got closer to the glass I was getting a reflection off of it and if I shot the coins from farther away I was not filling the sensor. Anyone have ideas on correcting this?  I want to share a three more I have not previously posted here. These two are highly reflective coins and I generally like the way they came out. They do have some minor lighting issues, but these are very difficult for me to get right. Again the surfaces are probably look a little better in the photos than they are in hand.   And this is probably my favorite shot of the bunch. I was able to get some of the luster and toning and the devices really pop as well. 
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