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Replies: 22 / Views: 12,794 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote:There are no 'price guides' for restored Buffalo nickels because nearly all of the serious collecting community consider them to be not worth of a collecting set.    I just can't see a restored dated coin in my Albums. IF for some reason it was done perfectly, maybe. However, in almost every one I've seen, they look sick. I'd rather have an empty slot in the Album. Sort of like spending many thousands on a car and then have old, worn tires on it or seats all worn out.
Edited by just carl 01/31/2014 10:31 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
Echoing what others have said, there is no price guide, and probably never will be. If it ever DOES happen, however, I have registered copyrights to the grading guide. (I'm actually quite serious)
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Valued Member
United States
401 Posts |
weerdsteev,
Last month I posted a dateless 3 1/2 leg "D" buffalo and you suggested it looked like the 1917 I think.
To me it's interesting but not worth anything more than $0.05.
This makes me wonder: Is a dateless missing leg buffalo worth more than one given a vinegar bath?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2589 Posts |
When listing them for sale, I've always been happy if I can get 15 percent of numismedia in Good. The keys of course always have higher demand along with the 1918/7. There is no reason to ever acid date a three legged buffalo, since you dont need the date to identify it.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
Quote: This makes me wonder: Is a dateless missing leg buffalo worth more than one given a vinegar bath? First off, do not EVER expect to find a 1937-D 3 legger without a date. It just flat-out doesn't happen. If you've got a dateless D-mint Buffalo that seems to be missing part or all of it's right foreleg, then you've probably got a 36-D or a 17-D - or maybe just a nickel that is extremely worn all over. Second, I don't think anyone would pay much for a POTENTIAL 36-D or 17-D, even if the date could be determined based on diagnostics. (I'd like to say that a dateless 36-D is something that can't happen, but the fact is that I have found 2 of those in my time...so that's why I bother to mention it.) People WILL pay a little bit for a nicely restored 17-D 3.5 legger, however, as THIS link shows: [ http://www.ebay.com/itm/15117874521....m1561.l2649]17D 3.5 leg[/url] ***edited to add "D-mint***
Edited by weerdsteev 01/31/2014 12:40 pm
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Valued Member
United States
401 Posts |
https://goccf.com/t/163448here's the link to thread with the possible 17-d 3 1/2 legs. Now the question is, do I remove the mystery and give it a soak, or do I just keep a nice "No-Date D-mint 3 1/2 leg" in my herd?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
If you're just going to keep it, I'd leave it alone. Sometimes a little mystery in one's life, and in one's collection, can be a good thing.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1590 Posts |
Carl, I think this appeals to the beginning collector on a budget. I know that most of the collectors I know are constantly upgrading their sets. I believe that most collectors just start out trying to "fill all the holes", and then try to upgrade. I have several sets of Lincolns that I am constantly upgrading. For me Buffs are nice but not my passion. If I found a nice restored type2 13-S for the right price I would buy it and place in my album. Heck most of my Teens are AG. Lol, I do have 3 AU Teens that I got for a steal, but most of my mint marked Teens I got on ebay for 99 cents each. That is one set that I am upgrading as the opportunity arises!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
Although I sell lots of restored Buffalo nickels, you won't find a single one in my own personal collection. But that's because I'm 60 years old now, and over time and by the grace of God I've been fortunate enough to be able to buy nice, original date examples. Not everyone has those two circumstances on their side though, and those who don't may not want to wait for years to go by or good fortune to come along to fill those holes in their set. That's where restored nickels can serve a purpose and provide a reasonable alternative. When you can finally replace that restored key date with an original date, then you simply sell the restored example - probably at a profit.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1353 Posts |
What would be the value of a 1918/7-d Buffalo nickel restored using coin date(similar to nic a date?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7375 Posts |
Try doing an advanced search on ebay and check recent sales.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
I've sold them (on ebay) for as little as $180 and as much as $600. Depends a lot on how clear\sharp the overdate is and whether there's any damage. Luck also has a lot to do with it. I've had to let some nice ones go (that I was auctioning) for just over $200 and I've scratched my head and wondered why someone else would pay me $400 for a really cruddy example.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1373 Posts |
Well, I tried again (and failed) to get both the 1913-D T2 and 1913-S T2 this past weekend. The "D" sold for around $25 and the "S" around $55. I lost the bidding barely on one and wasn't close on the other. It looks like those holes in my folder will stay empty a little longer. :( Today I mentioned what happened to my wife and I showed her (for the first time) my want list with prices shown. She looked at it for a minute, then said "If you ever pay that much for a coin I'll kill you!". That is why I'm still trying to get my last two Buffalo nickels the cheap way.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7626 Posts |
Keep trying, you'll eventually succeed.
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Valued Member
United States
401 Posts |
As most of us married men will tell you: The moral of the story is only tell your wife how much the coins you have are worth, never the price of the ones you want to buy... 
Edited by paddy murphy 10/06/2014 2:00 pm
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