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Replies: 19 / Views: 2,197 |
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Valued Member
 United States
153 Posts |
Also dimes. This way I can concentrate on ones that are important (sorry - all are important). But, hope you get my just. Gotta get husband off my back.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
986 Posts |
Save any really nice 1982's and 1983's, and take the rest to the bank.
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Valued Member
United States
161 Posts |
Beckie,
We are all here to help you. You are NEVER a pest!
At one time or another, we ALL had the same questions you are asking.
All of the above replies define key dates. In addition, think of KEY dates and mints as those few coins of a series that are the most difficult to obtain. They are called KEY coins because they are the key to completing the set.
Steve
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1984 Posts |
If they are circulated quarters without errors, I would take them all to the bank for those years and use the money to buy collectible coins. If they are uncirculated, then 1983 is considered a (semi)-key. If you have nice well-struck examples of 1983 quarters in MS-65+, they might actually be worth having certified. High grade (and I mean high grade, MS-67+) quarters of 1980-2000 have enough value that I would hang on to them myself. As for Roosevelt clad dimes 1965-present: In my opinion, if they are circulated and free of errors, then cash them in at the bank. If you find a 1982 dime with no mint mark, that is a pretty major error. If the dimes are uncirculated (MS-65+) then I would keep the 1982P and the 1983P/D myself, and maybe (maybe) one or two of the lower mintage ones (1969, 1971) that might cost more than $1 to replace in MS-65. Hope this addresses your needs and don't rely only on what one persone says.
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Valued Member
 United States
153 Posts |
All of my coins are circulated. trying to get through all of these then start buying coins.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
Hi Beckie
Im not trying to confuse the issue of Key dates ,, the other posters have posted correct info ,, one thing I would like to add is some coins which are common in certian grades can become key dates in higher grades .
even though they have a considerable Mintage,, this is caused from few of these coins being saved in mint state or even as low as VF ,, they were largely circulated making the higher grades scarce.
just another point to ponder as you look through your coins .
Metalman
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2540 Posts |
Beckie: The only way to learn is to ask questions. You should see some of mine! Have fun and learn.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2797 Posts |
Beckie, If I had a quarter for every time I asked a dumb question ... I would probably have some key dates in there! Glad you asked this one. This is a link to the PCGS page and is pretty handy for determining "relative" values and scarcity. I say relative because the prices listed are the highest obtained for coins with the grade indicated. Most times you can cut the figure in half for true values. It also provides mintage figures for each date and mintmark. To find information on Washington quarters, click on Wash quarters 1965-1998. Then on the blue hyperlinked numbers in the left column for mintage figures and special information. Hope it helps. http://www.pcgs.com/prices/
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Valued Member
United States
57 Posts |
I think the coin facts site run by PCGS is easier then the price guide. The Coin Facts site, although seeming abandoned since about 2001/2, lists the series with mintages and comments. Most comments are specific to key and semi-key dates. For Washington quarters, the real keys are 1932-D and 1932-S, neither of which you will likely find in circulation, and run $100 in almost any grade. :) www.coinfacts.com
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
57 Posts |
Ya, but the tables are harder to read, they don't have the same kind of extra data, and they don't have all the coins the coinfacts site does. (like ASE's and Commemoratives for example.)
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
57 Posts |
That has really good info, but I should have mentioned I meant the modern ones (but checking now, coinfacts doesn't have much in that regard either!) :) I'm still deciding to collect modern silver $1, there are some that are really nice, 2006 Old Mint, 2001 Buffalo, but then you have to get all the olymipic ones which would break me..
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
The secondary market on commems can be a brutal thing to the wallet .
what really hurts are the ones that take off right after issue and then don't settle into the market for 10 years ,, a person needs to wait for that to happen prices will stabilize to a large degree .
Metalman
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
As to asking questions. Somewhere I read this and it sums up your asking questions. The more I know about something, the more I know that I did not know as much as I thought I knew that I know. Or The more you ask, the more you learn and the more you learn, the more you realize how little you knew, so in order to not find out how dumb you are, don't ask.   Now that you did ask, I would say a key date is a date where you need a key to unlock something that was locked with a key.  For real, what metalman said. You will be surprized at how some coins are difficult to find and they are not considered key coins at all.
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