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1980 1-DO-001 Finally?!

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Author Previous TopicReplies: 21 / Views: 2,625Next Topic Page 2 of 2
Valued Member
United States
282 Posts
 Posted 11/06/2014  6:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add joey to your friends list
yes I add pic of liberty when I return from errands.Yhanks
Valued Member
United States
282 Posts
 Posted 11/08/2014  12:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add joey to your friends list

I tried to present a couple of different ways.

I am posting anpther of these today. A little stronger I hope.

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!
Valued Member
United States
282 Posts
 Posted 11/08/2014  6:46 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add joey to your friends list
I know pics ar3e little fark. But I felt it besr showed that FBLING and noching in a netter way. The DBLING showedm\ to lrg due to the magnifier on the earlier post.

Please note the areq below the. Is as it should ne for this? And the back of head?

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!
Pillar of the Community
United States
4809 Posts
 Posted 11/08/2014  9:40 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Rackster to your friends list
Hi Joey - sorry, but it looks like a normal 1980 LMC. The early 80s coins are often blurred from deteriorating dies. I've been looking for a 1980 DDO without luck and have seen a number of ugly specimens.
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United States
853 Posts
 Posted 11/08/2014  9:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jay4202472000 to your friends list
I agree that it looks normal. Also Joey, please proofread before hitting "submit reply".
Valued Member
United States
282 Posts
 Posted 11/08/2014  11:12 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add joey to your friends list
This should settle all
The Obv pic is the one.

Notching in the "1" is visible + all other devices should be able to be seen.

RACKSTER, I hope you are here to reply. And see this Pic..

Coop you also I'm hoping you can see and reply. Please verify if you can. Would like to move on to other posts I want to focus on.

Maybe finally move forward with confidence on my ebay site without the fear of hassles and with support and confidence of the community.

Thanks, more coming.


1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!
Pillar of the Community
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853 Posts
 Posted 11/09/2014  12:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jay4202472000 to your friends list
I still say no. Look at the difference.

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!
Pillar of the Community
United States
4809 Posts
 Posted 11/09/2014  12:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Rackster to your friends list
Hi Joey - still looks like a regular 1980 LMC. Coop can have the final say before you release your coin, but I think it's probably safe to do so.
Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts
 Posted 11/09/2014  10:11 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list
I still see a normal coin. Note the upper loop of you coin on the "0" has a flattened area at 1:00. If it were from this die, then all the devices would look the same as the attributed die 001. The rest of the date is normal in size compared with Jay's images.
Valued Member
United States
282 Posts
 Posted 11/10/2014  08:17 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add joey to your friends list
Thank you as always for input
And yes I am sorry for any grammar of any errors along with the post. What happened to spellcheck. Thought it used to be here as tool. But don't seem to see anymore. I suffered a concussion couple days ago due to bicycle accident, and if anytime I needed it was then. But couldn't see it. I do apologize. Will be more aware in future.

Hear are new set of pics..

1st are of same coin as before but 2nd set are 2nd coin of interest.

If anything to get more complete info for lesson.
I do think 2nd is possible candidate. Even better then other.

Coop, working to improve on better detail. I know some pics need better focusing. With that though, the flattened area in the 1 o'clock area are there I thought. And if you look at earlier pics other devices are the same. But due to clarify is difficult to see I know.

1st question, is it possible for coin to have all correct marks in correct places and not be the variety in question? Cause plse if looking below ear, in front of the face and devices I seem to see what's needed to be there.

Looks can differ little bit as in EDS, MDS & LDS'S Correct? As in the 2nd example hear would be in a later state as the, 1st as seems to be a later state.

Upon another glance is it possible for 1 or the other to be correct variety?
And you know that the angle matters in able to show dbling in devices.

Is something I am working on.

With this most recent information had helped a lot in understanding to what I need to see.

This is going to make me a real expert in the end after all is said and done.


Comments?

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!



1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!



1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!

1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!
Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts
 Posted 11/10/2014  2:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list

Quote:
1st question, is it possible for coin to have all correct marks in correct places and not be the variety in question? Cause plse if looking below ear, in front of the face and devices I seem to see what's needed to be there.

If the hub doubling is not present, it is a normal coin. Regardless of how many matching markers, if the doubling is not present, it is not from that die. Keep in mind for markers, the dies go through the same similar processes. A clash/polishing sometimes many times during it life. If the polishing is performed on the dies in the same manner, some die scratches will look similar, but won't mean they are from the same die. Sometimes markers on the 1960's cents were a die crack/chip on the columns. This happened a lot to both normal and variety dies. So looking for a die crack on a normal coin, doesn't mean it is the same marker as a variety die may have. Keep in mint the variety must come first. If it is not there, it is from a normal die. Markers are sometimes used to confirm a die state. Coins before that even will not have that marker. Coins after that event can be same/strong/even disappear depending if it is a die scratch. So these are secondary things. Just finding a marker from a doubled die that matches on a normal die doesn't prove it is from that die. The hub doubling is present from the first coin until last. It doesn't develop with time. It is there from coin one.
Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts
 Posted 11/10/2014  2:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list

Quote:
Looks can differ little bit as in EDS, MDS & LDS'S Correct? As in the 2nd example hear would be in a later state as the, 1st as seems to be a later state


Dies do show wear. But keep in mind the type of wear they experience. Usually the die wear shows on the outside devices edges that face the rim first. This is shown by the edge of the device being rounded at first in MDS. In the LDS examples more of the edge rounds and starts a flow pattern toward the rim area. In the VLDS die state the devices look very distorted with more of the device moving toward the rim.
1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!
1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!
1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!
So die wear is seen in these areas first. But note: The inside devices of the outside devices next to rim, do not show die wear until the VLDS die state. So any altering by die wear will not create a hub doubled example. The hub doubling starts from coin one.
Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts
 Posted 11/10/2014  3:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list

Quote:
Upon another glance is it possible for 1 or the other to be correct variety?
And you know that the angle matters in able to show dbling in devices.

It is not posssible for one device to be a doubled die variety, when the rest are not that same variety. Again it is something hubbed onto the die from coin one and will show die wear that sometimes will be disappear on later die states on devices on the outside edge of the die. But the inside devices would show the doubled die, if it is hub doubled.
Note the date on this image:
1980-1-DO-001-Finally?!
Your coin is not showing the spread. Note the corners of the one? Your coin is showing some machine damage on this device. Also not the spread on all devices in the image. I'm not seeing any of that on your coin. Hope this helps.

It takes a while to grasp this concept. A coin contact mark also alters the devices and does not make it a variety. It starts on the die. Thus the term doubled die.
Edited by coop
11/10/2014 3:09 pm
Pillar of the Community
United States
4809 Posts
 Posted 11/10/2014  8:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Rackster to your friends list
Coop - thanks once again for the lesson; you've helped many of us develop the 'eye' for finding the doubling (and more).

Joey - keep at it. You never know when lightning will strike so you want to be ready. I know that I've let a few specimens slip through my fingers because I wasn't sure what I was looking at. A little disappointing but I'm getting myself in better position for the next variety/error to pass by my desk. It takes time...and sometimes a hard lesson or two. We are indeed fortunate to have folks like Coop, John, Mike D, and a host of others to field our questions and check out our pictures in the hopes we master our craft...and we will to one degree or another. The first 1980-1DO-001 I saw was from a lucky member here a few months ago so it happens. Good luck to you!
Valued Member
United States
282 Posts
 Posted 11/11/2014  09:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add joey to your friends list
okay wow!

What an honor! To get such a response. I guess/hope my pics are getting better.

Coop, super info.. It gave me the chills. And again an honor to have your attention.

Guess I finally asked the tight and good Question. I am working hard on applying the lessons you all are giving me. Continuing the search for the right material. I am locked into for life.

Coop, I saw your msg about the DVD you offered me and I'll take you up on it.

I will make what donation I can now and more in future as things improve. Again an honor. Look for my info with address after my donation. I will make sure to get it to you. OK I have lots to post today and coming days as my inventory has built up lately. As I've held back as I'm absorbing all.
Thank you very much to all!
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