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Valued Member
 United States
143 Posts |
I've uploaded what may be some better photos, including closer shots of the date and the VDB (what is the MM?). I need to borrow a good SLR and get better close-ups. (And I'm not looking to sell this, but I still would like to know if it's real, and preserve it.) So, how do I go about fixing the Verdigris, assuming the coin is real? And do I do that before I send it in to be graded? And, I'm rather new here. I've rather that one of the grading services tends to be more trusted than the other, is that the case? And how do I actually go about getting the coin graded -- do I have to go to a dealer first? Thanks everyone. PS I'm a pretty decent photographer, but know nothing about coin photography. What's the best way to photograph coins -- any tips as to how to take a better photo?       Edited by jakesis
01/12/2015 9:54 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
506 Posts |
1. The MM is the mint mark, which is the S on your coin 2. The 2 most respected grading companies are PCGS (www.pcgs.com) and NGC (www.ngccoin.com). It is a matter of debate which is better or more respected. Coins from PCGS are usually known to go for more than coins from NGC at the same grade because PCGS is believed to grade more conservatively. Cost-wise, NGC may be better. If you join the ANA (money.org), you gain submission privillages to NGC starting at $28 while PCGS membership starts at $69. Also, NGC's submission rates are cheaper. Another option would be to take it to a dealer who is a member of one of those grading companies (both have tools on their website to find a dealer near you). That would save you membership fees and maybe some submission fees because dealers usually get discounted fees. 3. I would suggest getting an expert (such as one of the grading companies) to conserve the coin, although I am by-far not an expert at what it would take to conserve this coin. Both the grading companies I have mentioned have conservation services (NCS is a division of NGC that handles conservations) ( http://www.pcgs.com/restoration and http://www.ncscoin.com/?webSyncID=0...wNTY0NTA3S0)I hope all this information helps. I wish you luck with this coin and the rest of your collection. Edit: I cannot comment on the authenticity or condition of the coin. I would suggest hearing comments from other people on this forum before submitting this coin. Edited by coinlover168
01/12/2015 11:56 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
Canada
10743 Posts |
It looks authentic to me, EF-40
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19966 Posts |
New pics make it look totally different, VF-35.
Since you got the dust off, the verdigris I thought I was seeing is gone. I would submit it to PCGS as is.
Lincoln Cent Lover!VERDI-CARE™ INVENTOR https://verdi.care/
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Valued Member
United States
143 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
759 Posts |
Am I correct in thinking that the original pictures (the ones with the dust) are the best indication of how the coin looks in hand? If so, I find it to be a thoroughly pleasing circulated example that I'll say would sneak into XF-40 territory. I think you have a really, really nice coin there. Your mentor steered you in the right direction.
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Valued Member
United States
143 Posts |
Thanks OneBowl :) Well, the original pictures were shot with my dad's under-$100 camera that was far too automatic for my tastes. The newer photos are with my nephew's better camera, so I was able to get a sharper image. I was getting mixed signals from folks on whether this had verdigris that needed to be fixed before I sent it off to be graded. Any sense now that I have better photos up?
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Bedrock of the Community
 United States
18696 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
759 Posts |
In this case, I'd say a high post count and expertise go hand in hand...BadThad said submit "as is."
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Valued Member
United States
143 Posts |
Okay, deal :) And good point :)
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Valued Member
United States
308 Posts |
Overall I think this is XF40. OBV seems VF35. REV has nice details on the wheat and could go AU50.
Nice authentic S VDB.
The V.D.B looks correct, the left edge of the B should be at 6 o'clock position.
The S location looks like Obverse #3 (Top of S is at same height as the bottom of the 9's, and the left edge of the S is lined up with the right edge of the first 9.)
Also, the S serifs look correct.
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Valued Member
United States
143 Posts |
Wow, I'm impressed :) A question: So if the obverse and the reverse have different scores, the overall score for the coin is an amalgam of the two?
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Valued Member
United States
308 Posts |
I'm not sure if the TPGs grade this way, but I take this into account when I grade my own coins.
My personal example is my 1909 S VDB that the OBV is F12, but the OBV is VF20+, I think it affects the overall grade and bumps it up, so I consider it F15.
A good friend of mine who work in the business also grades this way, so I am comfortable with it.
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Valued Member
United States
143 Posts |
It's a fair point -- I mean, how can you grade two coins the same, that have exactly the same obverse (even though I realize 'exactly' isn't exactly possible), yet one has a stellar reverse and the other has a totally worn reverse? Clearly they both can't have the same rating, as the person who gets the lousy reverse is going to be pretty unhappy when he sees what the other guy got.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8137 Posts |
 to the forum! I recently looked at a video of certain diagnostics of how to authenticate this coin. What you need to look at is the serifs on the mintmark, they are one of the hardest things for counterfeiters to reproduce. Make sure that they run in a parallel line with each other. Then flip the coin over and look at the VDB. The center line in the "B" should slant down and not be perfectly straight. From the pics and closeups you provided, it has a good shot at being real. Sending it to PCGS or NGC is a must, this coin is heavily faked and most buyers of this coin will pay more for it if it is slabbed. |
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Posted 01/12/2015 11:52 pm
