New Camera, Canon Rebel T5

hello crosseyed my career was in electricity and hydraulic pressing. some thing for you to think about. cfl at 6500 k . I will do this way ok daylight I will say 1500 to 2900 is orange 2900 to 3100 is yellow 3200 to 6500 is blue ok natural summer summer is in the 3200 to 6500 so it blue. 3200 to 2900 is fall yellow 2900 to 2000 is orange winter. hope this helps you. these are the different light spectrums. so I believe dave will help us to adjust for this type of light. so will some of the other members. have a great one by the way great photos the focus looks great . I like them

Good point, westcoin. If you've bought camera gear and there's a gray surface associated with it - sometimes they include a card - it's for setting White Balance. Back in the film days, a gray card reflecting 18% of light (white is 90% or better) was found to offer the best reference level for setting color and exposure. Such a card offers Lambertian Reflectance, isotropic reflectance even in all directions. Back in the day, you shot the card right in the middle of your composed shot, and the camera used the card's reflectance to come up with more accurate metering than the subject, which could be a combination of colors of differing reflectivity.

Nowadays with digital sensors and software processing, cards like this are just for white balance because exposure can be sensed via the camera's sensor and software.

The math hasn't changed; 18% gray still offers Lambertian Reflectance and is the easiest shade to balance color from, but modern software can make the White Balance correction from 18% reflectance on up as long as the reflecting surface is monochromatic.

The takeaway has nothing to do with Lambert's cosine law, and everything with the fact that the Kelvin Temperature of your lighting is irrelevant with most modern cameras. Use blue lights if you want; the camera can correct for it. That way you can worry just about getting a lamp with an illumination pattern you like, and not care what tint your diffusion might add.

This last set is nicely focused, color correct and uniformly overexposed. I'm forced to ask if you've changed your monitor settings because you haven't overexposed any previous images.

That's a matter of course. You make one change, everything else has to change too.

There was absolutely nothing wrong with your previous images that a faster exposure wouldn't have fixed instantly. Why mess with lighting when an adjustment you use for every single shot will control it?

Not sure I understand. You have a Canon. You're not controlling the camera from the computer?

wonderful pick crosseyed . those are amazing coins. I am still struggling a bite. . but I believe I will get there with help from the members here on the forum. I am experiment more with the camera and computer. I figure if I break it my son will fix it for me. have a great one like the deer

That's fair.

I try to keep lighting below the camera itself and as close to the lens as possible. With the Jansjos, you can do this easily and that's part of why they're so popular even though their lumen output is marginal.