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Back To Repurposing Damaged Mercs

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 Posted 04/06/2015  7:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add DaSlayer to your friends list
Nice Work!
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 Posted 04/06/2015  7:25 pm  Show Profile   Check thedollarman's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add thedollarman to your friends list
so you sell these?

amazing work by the way.
Feel free to call me Will.
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 Posted 04/07/2015  12:21 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list
I sell yes but generally its just made to order. I tried building up a stock for a show but I just don't have the time. It takes me for three to thirty hours to make the items depending on the intricacy. I do it as a hobby but I still want to make enough to cover my costs in tools and raw materials. If I charged by the hour then I suspect I would still have every piece I ever made. There are some who use a vice and can knock out a mercury in about five minutes but I have tried this and I am not happy with the precision of the details I prefer to hold the coin while cutting that way I can follow the design more accurately. It just takes a lot longer.
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 Posted 04/07/2015  07:44 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mini_dude to your friends list
Fantastic work!

Do you make cuff-links?

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 Posted 04/07/2015  11:47 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list
I have made cuff links in the past yes. not much call for them these days
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 Posted 04/07/2015  3:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Cascade to your friends list
Nice work. Thats some beautiful repouposing. I have a tie clip like that and when I get home I'll post pics to get your opinion on craftsmanship if you don't mind.
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 Posted 04/07/2015  5:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dar to your friends list
Very Nice work.

I have done that in the past myself. I remember going through ALOT of blades due to the fact I'd end up snapping them.

The last piece I did was with a 1oz bar and did a relief. Had to use the dremel on that one as well and then did some black enamel highlighting on it.

It was so long ago though. If I remember right I paid 8 USD for the 1oz bar.

You do nice work!
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 Posted 04/07/2015  11:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Chute72 to your friends list
nohope587, you are probably familiar with this device. It really helps me when I am doing silver work for cab mounting or wood inlays. Simply clamp the board to a table with a common C-clamp, and make sure the "V" end sticks out away from the table. Once you have threaded the piercing with the blade, you can lay the work piece over the holed portion and saw like a maniac. The coin can be controlled with a fingertip and the board supports the coin.
I have a friend from Ethiopia, and I have wanted to make her a pendant from one of the Ethiopian coins that feature the lion's head.
You do nice work, keep it up.


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 Posted 04/07/2015  11:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MercuryDawg1 to your friends list
I've been wanting to post this question, but didn't know where, so I'm hoping maybe somebody in this thread, since it's related to silver jewelry will answer.
I started making my own jewelry a bit ago, got sick and came back to it. I'm wanting to solder on a bail to a piece I made. What is the best way to do that? I have a mini torch, and saw a video of using some silver solder to do it along with flux paste. Should I do it that way or is there an easier way?
I bought a rock tumbler with stainless steel shot to polish it up and toughen up the metal as well, but haven't gotten to use it yet, due to me waiting to get the SS shot until friday.
OP, good work! Very tedious work and takes a lot of patience... I like them! Thanks, and if any mods want to make this it's own thread, feel free? I really didn't know where to post this question. And btw I'm not new, I had to make a new account due to me erasing my old email and not remembering this password, so I couldn't reset it. Thanks! My old user name was stacker88
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 Posted 04/08/2015  12:27 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list
Silver solder is the best way to go I would use semi hard wire or maybe even hard. Only use a minimal amount of flux and put it only where you want the solder to stick. be careful on small items you can get pretty close to the melting point of the silver very fast. I melted more then a couple of dimes before I got the technique down. might want to practice on some silver wire first.
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 Posted 04/08/2015  01:25 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MercuryDawg1 to your friends list
thanks nohope, I was gonna just try that silver solder. but I'm soldering some 9mm bullets I made in delft clay and attaching some bails. It looks kind of tricky. I've also heard of using glue, but that doesn't seem that sturdy, because after I attach the bail I'm gonna throw it in a lortone rock tumbler for a few hours in some stainless steel shot for a nice finnish, and it seems that if you glue on a bail, it'd come off easy. I saw a roll of silver solder at the hobby store for $12 or something and saw a cool tip of flatening the solder and only pinching off a bit of what you need.
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 Posted 04/08/2015  01:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list
I taught myself how to solder. its not that hard and you learn quickly only use the a minimal amount of solder and less flux



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Edited by nohope587
04/08/2015 01:56 am
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 Posted 04/08/2015  01:58 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list
Chute72 I am familiar with the board I just have never tried it maybe now would be a good time to experiment where not many people can hear my screams :-)
Edited by nohope587
04/08/2015 02:02 am
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 Posted 04/08/2015  6:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Chute72 to your friends list
Nohope, no fear. The board is your friend. It also is a convenient backing for the drilled piercings. This will speed things up a bit, and your only screams will be screams of joy.
MercuryDawg1, for more complicated projects you should know that the silver brazing compound (often called silver solder) comes in soft, medium and hard. This is a reference to melting temperature. So if you start adding several pieces, use the higher melting temp first, and the second brazing will not melt the first bond. And because the brazing compound is designed to "wet", it can rapidly flow over other surfaces. I've painted surfaces I wanted to protect with a paste made of water and powdered yellow ochre.
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 Posted 04/08/2015  9:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ArrowsAndRays to your friends list
Great talent and skill!
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