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Do These Photos Look Okay?

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 Posted 06/22/2018  12:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadDog to your friends list
Thanks everyone for the comments


Quote:

Don't worry at all if the camera says flash is needed. In fact, I highly recommend you go into the menu and turn off the flash completely so it does not annoy you. 1/100 is actually very fast so I am questioning what do you have your ISO set to? It should be set for 100 to get best noise suppression.


Ray,

I have the flash turned off, but the camera still lets me know it doesn't think there is enough light by flashing the flash needed symbol in the view finder.

I had the ISO set to AUTO, but for all those photos it was auto set to ISO 100.

In order to get a slower shutter speed I would have to change the aperture, but isn't a fast shutter speed better? Fast is recommended by Mark Goodman in his Numismatic Photography book as a general principle. However, since the camera was indicating more light was needed, this is why I was wondering about whether or not there was enough light for proper exposure at the given settings.

Here are some more comparison photos. With these, I changed from AUTO ISO to a set ISO of ISO 100. I then changed the aperture between f/6.3 and f/8.0 in order to get a slower shutter speed. Once again, I played with the lights a little by sometimes having two lights at 10 and two lights at 2 and also adding a partially obscured light at 6.

As before, none of the photos have any post processing done to them, but I did crop these for the comparisons. What do you think of these?


Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
Edited by BadDog
06/22/2018 2:55 pm
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 Posted 06/22/2018  1:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chafemasterj to your friends list
They look a heckuva lot better than any of mine. So I feel weird saying anything but I agree with rmpsrpms that they look a little washed out. As far as a solution rmp's couldn't hurt to try out.
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 Posted 06/22/2018  6:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadDog to your friends list
Here's what the coin would like with some post processing (sharpened, contrast and levels adjusted). This photo was at ISO 100, f/6.3, 1/100 sec (obverse) and 1/125 sec (reverse) and lights at 10 - 6 - 2, with the light at 6 partially obscured.

Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
Edited by BadDog
06/22/2018 7:00 pm
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 Posted 06/22/2018  7:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Coinfrog to your friends list
BadDog - Quite a display on your part which only lessens my confidence in the accuracy of internet pics. I take it this is a raw coin. How would you grade it, honestly?
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 Posted 06/22/2018  7:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add pepactonius to your friends list
Still looks like the 10-2 is best in this batch
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 Posted 06/22/2018  8:21 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadDog to your friends list

Quote:
I take it this is a raw coin. How would you grade it, honestly?


Coinfrog,

Honestly? Are you implying that some eBayers might enhance their photos to make the coin look better Say it ain't so

The coin is raw. I'd say it's a solid 63, maybe a 64. Don't think it would go any higher than that. Is that about what you would grade it as from the photo? It's a common date, so I don't have any plans to get it TPG graded.

IMHO taking really good photos of coins is HARD. I'm just trying to figure out how to get better at
Edited by BadDog
06/23/2018 07:16 am
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 Posted 06/23/2018  11:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list

Quote:
IMHO taking really good photos of coins is HARD. I'm just trying to figure out how to get better at
Agreed. I think you are making great progress.
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 Posted 06/24/2018  10:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
Nice group of photos for comparison, but I find it odd that most of the shots are over-exposed. Only the 10-2 6.3 and 10-6-2 6.3 shots are correctly exposed. Not sure why the camera is shooting so they are over-exposed. What camera mode are you using?

I'm not at all fond of having lights coming in from below (ie in the 3-9 range). Think of shooting the coin like you would shoot a model...you'd never (at least rarely) shine a light from the ground straight up to her face. You don't want those lower surfaces to be highlighted. Or if she were outside in natural light, usually the light would be coming in from overhead, not from the ground.
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 Posted 06/25/2018  06:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadDog to your friends list
Ray,

All of the photos were taken in Aperture Priority mode, with no exposure compsensation.

I added the partial light at 6 because it looked to me like there was a half moon of darkness in the 6 area. I thought it needed a little extra light in that area.

Thanks for the advice, I'll keep experimenting.
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 Posted 06/25/2018  5:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadDog to your friends list
Here's a photo of my camera setup
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?

The lights are positioned at 10, 2 and 6. The lights at 10 and 2 can be doubled with both the high (the white Jansjos are about 1 7/8 inches higher) and low (the black Jansjos) on, or on singly (either high or low. I never tried one high and one low light on).

To continue the lighting and aperture comparison I took the following shots...

These first two photos compare the difference in aperture. Both photos are with lights at 10 - 2 in what I'm calling the high position (only the white Jansjos are on)
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
As expected, the larger aperture size at f/6.3 resulted in a faster shutter speed. The f/6.3 shot seems fairly reasonably exposed, but does seem a bit dark in the 4 - 8 region (lower part of the coin).

Also as expected, at f/8.0 the shutter speed decreased to allow more light to reach the sensor through the smaller aperture size, but the photo looks over exposed. The histogram shows much more light reaching the sensor at f/8.0. As with my previous photos, all of the f/8.0 shots seem to be overexposed. It looks like the camera may be setting the shutter speed too slow at f/8.0 for some reason.

The next two shots compare high and low lighting. Only the lights at 10 - 2 are on. Either both black Janjos (low) or both white Janjos (high).

Here's the high photo (same photo as above)
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
and the low photo (white Jansjos off, black Jansjos on)
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?

It looks like the lower lights resulted in less diffusion and as a result the shutter speed was faster.

The next two shots compare the effect of adding a light (low) at the 6 position. The 10 -2 lights remain in the high position (white Jansjos are on).

Here's the without light at 6 photo (again same as before)
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
and with a light at the 6 position
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
The additional light results in a faster shutter speed, removes the shoulder on the first histogram peak, but increases the second histogram peak as well. To me, this image seems a bit sharper and might look fairly nice with a bit of post processing.

My last comparison is to turn on the additional low lights (the black Jansjos) at the 10 and 2 positions. Here's the 10-6-2 photo again
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
and one with both high and low lights on at 10 and 2
Do-These-Photos-Look-Okay?
With the additional lights, the shutter speed once again increased and, to my eyes, the overall lighting of the coin became a bit more even.

I could have thrown in a few more shots at f/8.0, but since they all seem over exposed I didn't include them. It looks like with my camera/lens combo that I will need to apply some exposure bias if I want to use the f/8.0 aperture setting.

It's been a pretty long post, thanks for reading
Any comments are welcome
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 Posted 06/26/2018  5:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
It looks like the camera is not adjusting exposure time quite right, or perhaps I just don't understand how Pentax Aperture Priority mode works. Anyway, the last pic does look good, though still a bit over-exposed. Does the camera have an exposure compensation function? I'd suggest reducing the exposure by 1/3 or maybe 2/3 EV. And can you adjust the contrast in the camera? If so, reduce it a click or two and see how those two work together. The EV reduction alone is probably enough to eliminate the over-exposure.

It looks like you're trying to fix all the problems with lighting, rather than doing any post-processing, is this correct? It would be much easier to fix these items in post than to adjust the lights so precisely.
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 Posted 06/26/2018  6:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadDog to your friends list
Ray,

Thanks for the comments.

I agree that it does look like the camera isn't adjusting the shutter speed quite right. Particularly, at the f/8.0 it's leaving the shutter open too long and letting too much light in.

As you indicate, I can change all the settings in post processing. I'm just trying to get the lighting close enough that I can limit the post processing.

As far as the camera goes, it does have the ability to set an exposure bias prior to taking the photograph (you can see in data for each photo that the bias is set to 0 for these shots). You can also adjust the saturation, hue, sharpness and contrast in the camera before taking the photo. I've never thought there was an advantage to adjusting all these parameters prior to the shot versus adjusting in post processing. Do you see an advantage to setting them pre-shot?
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 Posted 06/27/2018  1:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list
Yes, there is a huge advantage if you are not doing raw processing. Once the shot is taken, you cannot fix problems that occur in jpg processing. Your camera likely has 10 or 12 bit dynamic range in raw, and this is compressed into 8 bits for jpg. If there is any over-exposure, those areas are "lost" since the tonal information is gone. The camera generally will adjust exposure so that highlights are pushed to over-exposure, but this is like playing your stereo all the time to the point where the amplifiers are clipping...it's just not the best fidelity. By adjusting the exposure bias, you can ensure the camera does not over-expose the highlights, and thus preserve details in the highlights. Of course, this makes the shadows darker. This can be compensated by increasing diffusion, but maybe at the expense of the overall look of the image. You can improve this with settings by decreasing the contrast. This has the effect of increasing the brightness of the dark areas of the image so they map better into the jpg dynamic range.

Over-sharpening is another thing that can't be recovered in post. It's always better to shoot at minimum sharpness, then do any final sharpening when you do cropping or levels adjustments.

So, it's your job to ensure that highlights are not over-exposed, while same time ensuring that shadows are not crushed to black. This is tough to do with standard camera settings, so to achieve it you must make changes to contrast, exposure compensation, etc.
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 Posted 06/27/2018  2:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadDog to your friends list
Ray,
if you're saving the photos out as JPG files.

I was really asking about RAW (which for some reason Pentax saves as PEF) files. Should have been more clear about that.

It seems like everything that can be set on the camera pre-shot can be adjusted as post processing for RAW files. So, the only advantage that I see is if you're making the same adjustments to all photos, then you might as well do it one time with the camera settings.
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 Posted 06/28/2018  07:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadDog to your friends list

Quote:
Your camera likely has 10 or 12 bit dynamic range in raw, and this is compressed into 8 bits for jpg.


Ray,

If you look at the histograms I attached to the above photos, it shows levels from a min of 0 to a max of 256. Doesn't this indicate 8 bit dynamic range? or is a higher dynamic range already being compressed for processing, even for RAW processing?
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