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 Replies: 19 / Views: 3,119 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1291 Posts |
By the way, if you come across a 1916 Doubled Die Reverse, you have found a heretofore UNKNOWN variety...!  |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1055 Posts |
Yes, I ment obverse, that would make my year to find a unknown variety! I consider a "set" a complete collection of Dates and Mint Marks (not including die varieties or other error coins). I am hoping to complete the set for the pleasure of collecting as well as hoping that one day the collection will have increased in value. A set of Buffalo nickels would be a rather large investment for me, however I am not in it purely for investment purposes. I have always thought it was best policy to purchase the best quality coin I could afford. In my opinion this would be most profitable as an investment . So right now I think I am leaning towards a mixed grade set of certified coins. Once that is completed I would upgrade coins as the budget allowed. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1055 Posts |
Anyone else have an opinion?
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Valued Member
United States
263 Posts |
I see the Buffalo nickel as being very similar to the Standing Liberty quarter in terms of design causing some difficulty in having a readable date (four numerals)over the years the coins were minted. Now I don't have slabbed coins in either of my collections of these coins but I do have my minimum "standard" as a coin with all year numerals visible without the aid of a glass or metal etching. My grades range from VF to UNC in the Buffalo and from XF to UNC in the SLQ. I admit that some of my SLQ's are overkill of my standard, but...what the heck...I love them. afernbaugh |
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Valued Member
United States
250 Posts |
I would by the best I could afford. I have found as I learn more about a series the more I want to have the best representations I can find/afford. This has meant I have upgraded a few. If you ever think you would want to upgrade the set I would spend the extra few bucks for the common dates from the beginning.
But that is my opinion....
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12437 Posts |
Here is another option to consider- get all of the early dates in VF30/EF40 and then get the later dates(i.e. more common and less costly) in MS. Some of the early ones will still be quite expensive even in VF(1913-S TII, 1914-D, 1915-S, 1921-S, 1924-S, and 1926-S) but not nearly as bad as EF/AU examples.
Edited by biokemist6
04/23/2009 3:02 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1083 Posts |
 I don't know about your income level, but I could only afford the key dates in VG-8 to F-12. In the later dates I could afford better grades. I also consider my set complete without the error dates and examples, like the three legged 1937-D and the 18/17 overdate. |
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Moderator
 United States
16679 Posts |
Good luck with your quest! I have a complete set VG-MS with some of those being problem coins. The only coin I am missing is the 1916 DDO. As stated, some of the keys could get quite expensive in VF grades and above, and I don't mean the varieties (1916 DDO, 18/7-D, 37-3 leg, 36- 31/2 leg) My advice is, as with any set, take your time and get the best quality you can afford. My problem coins are simply fillers waiting to be replaced with nicer coins. swcoin.ecrater.com
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1541 Posts |
I like either Biokemists idea or staying with EF to achieve a uniform look.
I've been wanting to attempt a Buffalo set for awhile now but limitaion of funds and knowledge on grading buffs are keeping me away from it.
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Valued Member
United States
90 Posts |
I personally buy the best of each coin I can afford. As time goes by, if I see an opportunity to upgrade I jump on it.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1055 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8904 Posts |
Maybe it's just me, but I like to get the best coin I can get for that year/mint mark. That way when I win the lottery, I'll only have to upgrade the rare coins!
Truthfully, I don't mind the disparity between coins in my collection. My common ones are typically MS and the rare ones are whatever grade I can get without breaking my bank account. And then I keep looking for bargains to replace the less than good ones or save up to get them. It works for me. The collection is never done this way!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
629 Posts |
I agree with Moe, in the common dates get MS coins, best you find. There are bargins to be found out there - I found a 37D 3 leg in a junk box, I graded ugly VG but shucks for 75 cents, I thought it was a deal. So uncover all stones when you are at a dealer. Look in the box that he has labeled "partial dates" - usually some good deals there - like 1925 D or S - both are weak obv.
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Valued Member
United States
383 Posts |
Agree about the partial date bin. I just bought 60 for $9 and got 3 1913 type 1s in there, one of which looks to have a mint mark.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1083 Posts |
A complete Buffalo set is difficult and expensive undertaking. In addition to excessive wear problems creating scarcity, the set is very nostalgic and popular. Demand on ebay for decent material is fierce. I compromised on the over date 18/17 and the three legged in my Dansco album by plugging the holes with a regular 1918 and 37-D in order to complete the set. My 1913-S Type II is a VG-8, although the rest range from F-12 to MS-63. In spite of that it was expensive to complete and I applaud the rest of you who are working to complete one. |
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Posted 04/22/2009 5:21 pm
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