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Clad Ike: Is This Verdigris?

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 Posted 01/14/2025  10:05 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list
Thanks for the recommendations, guys. I had already tried pure acetone to zero effect.

I think Sap cleared up my confusion over the nature of the spots. Specifically, I wasn't really sure if verdigris refers to a patina or also applies to this kind of corrosion. I agree that something was splattered on the coin. You can actually see a pattern of spray if you look closely. The coins were stored in an attic, and were circulated, so who can say for sure what splattered onto the surface? Given the light circulation, it could very well have been something over 50 years ago.

As MisterT says, this is a 1972 Type 2 Eisenhower dollar (the rare proof reverse, FS-901). I am offering it on ebay, along with another Type 2 from the same hoard with similar spots. The description clearly calls out the verdigris spots, and the pictures clearly show the green and dark specks. I am not going to treat the coin—that is beyond my expertise, and some buyers might prefer the green spots to chemical treatment.
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 Posted 01/15/2025  11:25 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list

Quote:
I am offering it on ebay, along with another Type 2 from the same hoard with similar spots. The description clearly calls out the verdigris spots, and the pictures clearly show the green and dark specks. I am not going to treat the coin—that is beyond my expertise, and some buyers might prefer the green spots to chemical treatment.
Good choice. Let the buyer make the decision.
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 Posted 01/15/2025  1:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list
Absolutely, classic verdigris.

PVC plasticizer actually forms verdigris via a hydrochloric acid reaction. The ONLY differentiation between normal verdigris and PVC is the addition of some organic residue from the PVC plasticizer.
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Edited by BadThad
01/15/2025 8:49 pm
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 Posted 01/15/2025  3:46 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list
Thad, do you have any before and after pictures of treating such spots with VerdiCare?

I accepted a buyer offer of $30 for that Ike. I consider it a reasonably fair price for an AU 1972 Type 2 Eisenhower with the blemishes. Oddly, that coin got all the attention after listing, and the one I regard as nicer still has 0 views.
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 Posted 01/15/2025  4:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list

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I accepted a buyer offer of $30 for that Ike. I consider it a reasonably fair price for an AU 1972 Type 2 Eisenhower with the blemishes.
Fantastic!

Quote:
Oddly, that coin got all the attention after listing, and the one I regard as nicer still has 0 views.
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 Posted 01/15/2025  9:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list

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Thad, do you have any before and after pictures of treating such spots with VerdiCare?


Probably somewhere but I don't want to dig for them. The verdigris in the close-up pictures is what I'd classify as early stage. Normally it is easily and instantly (seconds) removed with VC.

However, with these clad Ikes, there is always a stain or dull patch left behind if you spot treat. I've only used it on maybe 4-5 Ikes - I don't collect them. In my experience, VC removed the offending residue but at a cost to the area treated.

Given my staining observations from the past. I would be VERY careful -

My recommendation for the first step would be to soak the coin in distilled water for an hour - while it's underwater, gently use a toothpick on the verdigris areas. If it's light and flaky, it might almost all come off. I've done this a billion times - it works on super light verdigris. After that is done, post some pictures so I can see what's going on.

PS - Do not use acetone, xylene or anything else at this stage. Verdigris salts are mostly INSOLUBLE in organic solvents. Water should ALWAYS be the first step in any conservation attempt. It's cheap, effective and very, very safe over short soaking periods.
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 Posted 01/15/2025  9:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list

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Specifically, I wasn't really sure if verdigris refers to a patina or also applies to this kind of corrosion.


From a chemist's perspective, verdigris is simply a way to describe copper corrosion. Verdigris is a complex and highly variable mixture of molecules.

Similarly, we usually say "rust" when we see iron corrosion. Some call the corrosion on aluminum and other metals "rust" and, technically, you could call verdigris rust too.
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 Posted 01/16/2025  10:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list

Quote:
However, with these clad Ikes, there is always a stain or dull patch left behind if you spot treat... In my experience, VC removed the offending residue but at a cost to the area treated.
Which is why my treated Ike became a pocket piece.
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 Posted 01/16/2025  8:58 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list

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Which is why my treated Ike became a pocket piece.


You, better than any other human I know, understand how sensitive the surfaces are on these. Right there with proof coins. I think a lot of is amplified because the physical size of these.
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 Posted 01/22/2025  3:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list
No follow up on this conservation project?
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 Posted 01/22/2025  3:42 pm  Show Profile   Check Brandmeister's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Brandmeister to your friends list
No. As I mentioned previously in the discussion, I decided not to treat the coin. The 1972 $1 Type 2 FS-901 is currently for sale on ebay. The future owner can decide whether to treat it or not.

I will try the suggested techniques eventually, but on a normal circulated Ike that is worth $1. A rare $50 coin was not the right candidate for my first attempt at restoration.
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 Posted 01/22/2025  4:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list

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I will try the suggested techniques eventually, but on a normal circulated Ike that is worth $1. A rare $50 coin was not the right candidate for my first attempt at restoration.
I agree. A good idea to test your new skills on something you can risk ruining, even when others affirm their success. Trust, but verify.
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