Is This What I Think It Is ? ! ? ! 1992 D

Sometimes we look at one device and think it is doubled and forget to consider the rest of the picture, how other parts should be affected also. I have to even remind myself at times. But it just a small part of the design is affected it shows how minor it is. If we think some part of the design is missing, There has to be a reason. Perhaps a die polishing that removed part of the design. Strike through grease or something else. Keep in mind that 20th century coins other than mint marks, the hubs have the devices in place and placed onto the die. Mint marks and the rare overdates are added or hubbed twice with different dies. There is more of a change to have something added to a die than left off the die. On the 19th century coins they hand punched the dates individually or used gang punches for some coins. But the date is on the master hub and only a hubbing error would make is doubled on a die. Devices left off a die were there when the die was hubbed and polished off or grease filled. There is no way of them forgetting a device. It was just polished off. When we think of the whole picture of how something has came about (in the case of dies) then you start to see why they could come about. In the case of the wide A M/Close AM is the dies used were not the changed standard that was perhaps not used at the right times. It happens and we love it. But sometimes you think you can just keep looking and it will jump out at us. That is only true for good doubled dies. When you find one then you realize, I've been looking to hard to find something that is not even there or it jumps out at us if it is really there. So when he have questions, ask. No one will think less of you. Asking really shows that you are a learner. When an answer is answered, then take it to heart. Save the coin if you like and write a notation on it as a teaching aid for other new variety addicts like you. A picture an example provided can help a new learner and he can pass it on to the next new one that come along. Honing you skills on the right terms to use also help as it put all on the same page. When we need to change out thinking it help to show that we are on the same page as others. Something I do on every new thread is to read the original post and look at images and think over what I see in there images/description. Only read the first posts and then later read the rest of the thread and see if you are correct or you have the correct answer and then post. If someone has had the answer you can mentally agree or even post if these seems to be a question on a coin. This site carries this thought of: "If they don't know, they mention this in their post." That is commendable as it helps new ones with a thought, but he helps to see the correct answer himself if he reads the thread to see how it ends. Teaching aids help a lot. I save many images to help with my assessment. Some just want a Yes or No answer. Others like me what to know why I've come to that solution. Thus I add what I can to help fill in the blanks. My mind just thinks that way most of the time. So I like to eloabrate on a question. If someone know the answer then they can skip it. But a new collector can appreciate the new information to add to his knowledge. So if you see the same lines of thought/use of images/answers it is I feel they fit the thread. Every try to find an old thread with a comment that you need? The search can help, but most times you don't find it. So when you can't, just ask. The posters will help bring the information back with images or someone else will find the thread and post a tag here. I frequent other sites and other there post information/images/charts and I'll add it to my educational image collection to share with others. But that is just me. I see the benefit and glad to share when I can. It's just something that I do.
Here is one illustration that I borrowed from another site. Keep in mind the white part in the center was the original illustration. I saw room for improvement and re-typed, and added to to get what I thought would help. So I added a border/background that I thought would be useful:
https://www.coincommunity.com/forum...-dies_01.jpg
So I added a little more thought to it and came up with this instead of the white background:
https://www.coincommunity.com/forum...-dies_02.jpg
Or this one:
https://www.coincommunity.com/forum...-dies_03.jpg
I sometimes leave it alone the first time, but other times I just have to do more and enjoy adding till I feel it is right.

A Close AM should have a wide FG..see the pics above

I don't see what the link above has to do with anything.

In fact, I don't think I even understand this thread.

Oldflabbergeezer, I see what you mean..the FG of a Wide AM, not a wide FG.
But anyway, there are some pennys out there with worn dies that appear to be Wide AM's, but they're not.I've seen a few myself and that's what the last guy on the thread is talking about.But I see nothing about a 1992-D Close AM on that link...do I need to scroll through some pages ?

Best picture I could give you right now. The FG is clearly of a Wide AM coin, but the A&M look very close to me! Let me know what you guys think?

Any perceived variations are not due to a third design, they would be caused by the strength of hubbing, strength of strike, or level of die polishing. It can only be one or the other, there is no in-between.

I don't take anything to serious! I appreciate all of your help...

"Any perceived variations are not due to a third design, they would be caused by the strength of hubbing, strength of strike, or level of die polishing. It can only be one or the other, there is no in-between."

Is it possible they used 1 hub for parts of the coin and another hub for other parts? When a die is made from a hub, don't they do it in sections or is it all at once that the die is created?