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Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
Hi Amy
Welcome to the forum !!
We would be happy to help you find out what you have ,, after looking at your pictures you have quite a few coins !!
Can we see a close up of the edge of the quarter which is missing the reeding ?
I see quite a few quarters that have been used in the casino's that have had the reeding worn off, but leaves the obverse and reverse details in great shape.
Rick
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New Member
 United States
5 Posts |
Thank you very much. I will work on going through these coins one by one again, think I need to give my eyes a break for awhile. lol. I ended up with 100 dollors in just quarters to go through. I did discover that a lot of the older ones 1965 and up do not have a mint area so not sure who made them. Experimental Strikes There are approximately 15 known 1999 State Quarters struck on Experimental Planchets. All five states in the 1999 series (DE, PA, CT, GA and NJ) have been discovered. These Experimental State Quarters have sold for as high as $10,000 each, depending on which state, the coin's condition and which type of experimental composition was used. There are four known types of experimental compositions which have been discovered so far on 1999 State Quarters. Amy
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
Hi Amy coins with no mint mark for the dates you mentioned are Philadephia minted coins. Take your time were always here !! Rick
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1203 Posts |
Amy, the information that Rick gave you on the so called 'experimental' coins being from Philadelphia explains your classification as experimental. I would also like to add that at times I would have to agree with you and say that a lot of the Philadelphia coins do look as if they were 'experimental' in nature. Some fairly poor work comes out of that mint, at times.
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Valued Member
United States
157 Posts |
Amy, I visit this online price guide frequently: http://www.pcgs.com/prices/Its fairly comprehensive and easy to use, and I think it will help you approximate the value of your coins. If you don't have one already, you ought to get a book on coin grading, too.
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New Member
 United States
5 Posts |
Thanks for all the info. I will look into getting this book also. I'm sorry about all the questions I really dont know much about any of this yet.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7123 Posts |
Hi Amy
Questions are no problem ! ask all of them you like,, as you can see you will get answers from all different angles all of them carrying good and useful information.
Rick
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Pillar of the Community
United States
751 Posts |
Don't let your eyes get too big looking at those PCGS prices. If your coins aren't slabbed in PCGS holders, they are way high. And if they are PCGS slabbed, they may still be way high....
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1454 Posts |
Coin values are an ever changing subject. The market itself determines price. How many there are in the world versus how much someone is willing to pay for it. The only way to stay the most current is to subscribe to something like the grey sheet. It is a valuable source for prices but still not the only way to get a price. Example would be my latest purchase, a 1959-D Franklin half. I went to a coin show last weekend and one guy was quoting me a price of $80, (which he was looking at a grey sheet at the time by the way) only because he thought his was MS-65, which in my opinion it wasn't, it was a weak strike and shouldn't have been more than a MS-63 at best. I got him down to $30 but told him I still wasn't sure if I wanted it and that I would be back if needed. I went to another table and I saw another coin that was in the same condition if not a little better, it too was a weak strike but had less bag marks. The guy wanted $16 and I pulled out what I had in my pocket which was $13 and he took the discount and the $13. Lucky me right. Well, it is all in how the market, dealers, sellers, etc., see things. Like how much they need to move product and how low they are willing to go. So prices really can't be pinpointed down to just one value. Hope this information helps a little bit. I just wanted to point out that the main thing is how much do you like your collection? It is all in what you want to get out of it. I don't do my collection for an investment, to me, this takes all the fun out of it. I do it for the fun of it and just love collecting things.
Edited by Irishraider 09/16/2006 11:45 am
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New Member
 United States
5 Posts |
I really like collecting coins but however right now I'm trying to find away to get money out of any of the ones I have that are worth anything if I have any worth anything. I know thats a sad way to put it but when your a single mom in the middle of loosing everything its easier to sell any that I find. Atleast intil we get things back to normal around here.. lol. I want to say thank you to each person that has given me any input. Hopefully out of all these coins I will have the one I need. Maybe all these 1979 Susan B Anothy will be worth more in the years to come.. lol..
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2177 Posts |
 Welcome to the Forum. I look forward to your posts. And as always, Happy Hunting!! 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1454 Posts |
quote: Originally posted by zarya28
I really like collecting coins but however right now I'm trying to find away to get money out of any of the ones I have that are worth anything if I have any worth anything. I know thats a sad way to put it but when your a single mom in the middle of loosing everything its easier to sell any that I find. Atleast intil we get things back to normal around here.. lol. I want to say thank you to each person that has given me any input. Hopefully out of all these coins I will have the one I need. Maybe all these 1979 Susan B Anothy will be worth more in the years to come.. lol..
Sorry to hear of the need to sell off your coins. I have never been a single mom so I can't say I know how it feels. However, right now I am going through a similar financial crunch and do know how that feels and it isn't fun. I can give you some information on the Susan B.'s. However from your pics I didn't see any that were in the grades that in this list. They would need to be in Proof or at least Mint State. 1979P has a Wide Rim (Near Date) variety and is worth approximately $20 in MS-63 condition. 1979S (which is a Proof coin not meant for circulation) there is what they call a Clear S in proof condition for $125. 1981S (also a Proof coin) there is also a Clear S version in proof condition for $250. Of the Sacagawea golden dollars the only ones that are worth any money are the Proofs. As far as the Quarters go, unless they are 1964 or earlier they are pretty much worth 25¢. The cents are a different story and you would need very detailed close-ups of these. There are people who will pay premiums for all types of varieties but it takes a lot of work to find them. I don't want to discourage you but only give you the facts so you can make an informed decision. My opinion, and this is only my opinion, if you have close to $100 worth as stated and you really need the cash then roll them up and take them to the bank and put it in your checking account. The cents I would hold on to at the moment for further review. As for the $5.oo bills I do not know anything about currency and others would need more detail as to why you think these may be worth more than just $5.
Edited by Irishraider 09/16/2006 3:03 pm
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Valued Member
New Zealand
227 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
986 Posts |
Hi Amy, Sorry to hear of your financial troubles right now. Welcome to the forums! I think you mentioned having "older" quarters, dated pre-1965. If this is the case, then all of the quarters dated from 1964 and back are 90% silver. My dealer is paying around 8x face value right now, and I think that's about average. So each of your quarters would be worth around $2.
To sell those quarters, you'll need to find a local dealer and sell them to him/her. Your best bet is to get the phone book and look up "coin dealers" and call each of them. Ask them what they're paying for "junk silver". You'll know immediately if they're ripping you off if they offer you less than around 5-6 times face value. Shop around for the best deal. The same thing goes for pre-1965 dimes (excluding 1965).
Since you said that the pictures were only some of your coins, I'll tell you about what coins to look for in the other denominations. For nickels, look for a 1950-d and 1939-d.
If you've got any questions, feel free to ask. We love helping people out over here on Coin Community!
Hope things work out for you!
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New Member
 United States
5 Posts |
Ok I'm trying so hard not to get my hopes up. But I was just given some really old coins they are worn out though. But wanted to share with everyone to see what yall think about them. I had problems getting them to up load so I just add them to my others. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/zarya...dir=/1f49re2
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