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Replies: 42 / Views: 5,847 |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
<3
Please, never stop posting here.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
This is a great thread! Lots of fun and interesting stuff. My RSD setup is really just a pair of Jansjo LED lights with what I call Directors: a combination of diffusers and reflectors. These Directors create a "strip" of light about 1-1/2" long and 1/4" wide, sort of like a very small fluorescent bulb. The directors are reflective everywhere inside their (taped-together) structure except where the light exits (exit aperture), where they have a piece of translucent, thick vellum. On the surface that faces the coin, they have a piece of flat black paper to keep any stray light from hitting the lens and causing flare. The "wall" of this black paper is vertical so that I can get the lights as close as possible to vertical from the coin with the exit aperture. They are glued together, then taped in place on the LED head. Here are some pictures from different angles, plus a picture of both in action. Note the angle of approx 10:00 and 2:00, but in this case the lights are distributed over a much wider clock angle of 12:00 to 4:00 and 12:00 to 8:00 but at different angles to the coin. This seems to make a very pleasing combo of direct and diffuse lighting, and elimination of hotspots.    
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1314 Posts |
Sweet Joy.
Dare I hope to claim progress?
Having mastered the art and science of installing the neck strap, I fell back into a state of smug self adoration. And well I deserved to, as the mastering of such a high tech field such as neck straps would cause anyone to become giddy with delight. And as fortune would have it, this new found skill became imediately useful. When I discovered that my new camera strap was quite capable of entangling anything on the desktop... computer cords, unanswered corespondence, the coins I desire to photograph and my highly scientific collection of spyder webs. I knew it must be removed. And removed I did. Like a Ninja strap remover.
But that is not the end... I learned so much more. (Oh, and isn't camera discovery such a joy?) My next lesson involved the proper way to pick up a camera. Done incorrectly, one can actually take a picture of ones self. If there is enough interest, I could post the self portrait. But not until I regain full eyesight.
PS. The flash works.
It is alive! The sleeping giant of a camera has exibited signs of life.
Updates as I progress or regress. Later, Kurt
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
I got to thinking that my RSD Directors would be hard to reproduce, so I figured out a way to make them that is much easier and gives an excellent result. Here are the instructions: Raw Materials - White index card - Thick artist vellum stock - Black card stock - Scissors, glue, toothpick, scotch tape Instructions: - Roll index card into tube so that it fits snugly around the Jansjo LED; tape the seams - Cut vellum into a strip 2" long and 5/8" wide - Bend vellum strip into a "U" shape with 1/4" sides and 1/8" bottom - Squeeze card tube on one end and press-fit vellum you into end of tube - Use toothpick to apply glue between vellum and index card and glue both sides into place - Cut black card stock to 2"x3" - Glue 2" edge of black card stock to end of tube where it joins the vellum - Tape side edges of black card stock to the tube - Install onto Jansjo LED head Here is a picture of the finished Director:  And here are two of them configured to photograph my 57-D Toned Lincoln Cent:  The Director really creates a diffused light source 2" long and 1/8" wide out of the Jansjo LED. Its shape, and the black paper "blocker" allow you to position it at as high an angle as possible without actually blocking the view of the coin. The shape then distributes the angle of incidence over a fairly wide range, and this eliminates hotspots. Here's the resulting picture of the 57-D Toned Lincoln Cent:  You can see a small amount of vignetting due to the Directors being positioned within the field of view of the coin. This was taken with a 75mm f/4.0 Rodenstock Apo-Rodagon D M=1 Macro Bellows Lens ("75ARD") with no post-processing. There is plenty of distance between the lens and coin for these "creative" lighting arrangements!
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
Edited by rmpsrpms 08/15/2011 01:21 am
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
The full-size image is actually sharper than the automatically-downsized one appearing in the post. That's insane - it seems the Rodenstock is resolving details too fine to appear in a smaller image.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Yes, the 75ARD is crazy sharp. Here's the same image but at 50% reduction instead of 25%: 
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Valued Member
United States
380 Posts |
Ray-
It looks like you've got a little speck of dust on your sensor... have you tried cleaning it yourself before? It's appearing in all of your process shots. You can see it best just to the left of the cent in the "in process" photo 3 posts above!
last year I kept seeing the same spot pop up on my images, and sure enough I wiped the sensor clean with a cleaning kit that I bought online, worked wonders!
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Yes, it is there but outside the area taken up by a coin. I'm a bit freaked out about cleaning it myself. I'll probably take it in to have it cleaned. Camera actually has quite a few specs in there and they don't come off with a blower or ultrasonic. I think they are bits of oil and that makes me very worried about cleaning them. I have no issue cleaning lenses but the camera filter glass is another story.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Valued Member
United States
380 Posts |
The sensor is certainly scary to start thinking about cleaning. There is a kit you can buy online that works effectively (Read: I was scared when I tried the first time), but I certainly read up and watched youtube videos to make sure I knew what I was doing. I even stopped in at a local camera shop to see if they could offer any advice or words of wisdom. I couldn't pull the trigger on sending my camera out for 3-4 weeks and getting it done professionally. It came out perfectly and no more spots!
PS. For those reading, If you haven't cleaned your own sensor before, I don't recommend you do so without training and research. You can damage your camera or make things worse.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1298 Posts |
I want to attempt to construct your RSD Directors, rmpsrmps. Under the instructions line 4, is there a misprint? "and press-fit vellum you into end of tube". Should that read "you cut into end of tube"? And where did you get your supplies, specifically the vellum? Thanks.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Yes, that's a typo. Should read "press-fit vellum into end of tube". Since the tube resists bending especially on the narrow ends, cutting the corners off the ends of the vellum helps a bit to fit it nicely together. Maybe a 20-degree angle or less. The angle also makes it easier to push the vellum into the end of the tube. I've been using "Opalux Translucent" 110lb, 19" x 24" vellum sheets made by Canson. You can get them at hobby supply stores or craft stores that sell drafting and art supplies. The heavy weight is important for stability during assembly. You can also buy the stuff at Amazon for ~$4 a sheet (+ $6 shipping !). Here's the link: http://www.amazon.com/Canson-Opalux...p/B004BNC2NKSince it's heavy weight, yet nicely translucent, it makes great raw material for many other types of diffusers, luminescent backgrounds, etc.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1298 Posts |
I have my supplies ready. If you wouldn't mind, could you show some pictures of the Director from some other angles? I think that would help in the assembly. Thanks.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1298 Posts |
I have managed to construct a few, but cannot seem to eliminate the gaps in the corners of the index card and the vellum strip. Got any ideas on how to close or seal this gap?
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Is there a gap because the vellum does not go all the way into the hole, or is the gap on the ends between the vellum and the card? It's pretty critical that the vellum pieces be just the right length to fit into the hole with a nice press-fit. You will probably either need to cut the vellum down or make new pieces that are a bit larger if you want a perfect fit. I also found it helpful to press the vellum into place, and then remove it and make creases in the card stock where the vellum hits the tube. In the end, any gap you can't get rid of can be closed-off with small pieces of black card stock glued into place.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1298 Posts |
O.K., I'll work with your suggestions. Thanks again.
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Replies: 42 / Views: 5,847 |
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