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Focus Stacking

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Pillar of the Community

Canada
2268 Posts
 Posted 01/03/2016  6:32 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add rocky to your friends list Get a Link to this Message
I believe this is focus stacking would come in handy. I don't know how to do it. but I sure want to learn. this image is of a 1969 Canadian nickel dollar. the upper line is suppose to be a water line. so we been told. the coin I have the line has a rounded edge. the coin has a depression level with the that line. I believe that that line represents a stream bank. the 1968 and 1969 nickel dollars. see the listing for the errors is for 1968. I believe this is just another variety. that come from the 1968. I would like anyone that has a 1968 dollar to check there coin closely. if you have one that has a single line. check it and see if yours has a depression. ray would focus stacking help with this. what if I layed the coin on a slight angle. would that help. this is a mystery that has intrigued me. lets solve it. first learn focus stacking here is my first image the other images suffer a corona effect.

Pillar of the Community
Canada
2268 Posts
 Posted 01/03/2016  6:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rocky to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
the arrow points to water lines. the line points to the bank sorry here is the rest of the post
Pillar of the Community
Canada
2268 Posts
 Posted 01/03/2016  7:54 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rocky to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I thought I would load and image here. that shows the water lines. see how well definded. plus there is no depression on the coin. above the water lines.

Pillar of the Community
United States
3438 Posts
 Posted 01/03/2016  7:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
rocky...focus stacking would give you a composite image with good focus in the areas that are showing a bit of blurriness with the single image. It may help with identification, but your single image looks pretty good and shows what you are talking about, so I don't know if it would really help much. Probably moving the lights around to enhance the highlights and shadows in the best way to show the variety may be a better way to go. Combine optimized lighting with focus stacking and you'll have a real winner!
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
Pillar of the Community
United States
3438 Posts
 Posted 01/03/2016  8:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Those two coins are from completely different designs, right? Not sure how to compare.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
Pillar of the Community
Canada
2268 Posts
 Posted 01/03/2016  8:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rocky to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
1968 and 1969 are from the same series. the 1969 dies all they changed was the year. I am going to search as many 1968 as I can. to see if I can find one that matches the 1969 single line. I have found a device.that I have been waiting for quit some time. it will be here in 3 weeks I am hoping. that it will make lighting the nickel coins a lot easier. thanks ray. I want to learn how to do this focus stacking.
Pillar of the Community
United States
3438 Posts
 Posted 01/03/2016  10:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The denticles and the lines don't match up between the two dies, even if you ignore the "extra" line.

One thing you can do is an overlay between the two to show the differences. But you need to take them one right after the other, at the exact same magnification, and with same orientation. If you want, you can just send me the two pics and I'll align them and do an animation to show the differences. And as I do it I can teach you how...
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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United States
3645 Posts
 Posted 01/04/2016  07:25 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BStrauss3 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
FocusStacking is actually pretty easy - if you are willing to pay for the software. Or there are other programs, but the tradeoff is often $ vs. time/effort.

For a single effort, the trials of either of the commercial programs will suffice.
-----Burton
47 year / Life ANA member (joined 12/1/1973)
Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA
Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, OnLinw Coin Club
Owned by four cats and a wife of 37 years (joined 1983)
Pillar of the Community
Canada
2268 Posts
 Posted 01/04/2016  6:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rocky to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
hello ray. I have found a bunch of sets from 1968 and 1969. I will try to get you a couple of images a little later. looks like some of the club members are will to let me use there sets. to try to do a study they are amazed at what I am getting with the microscope objective. thank you so much ray for helping myself earlier to understand. how to use one of these. they said it would be nice. if we could find some more sets to test. what I am hoping is to find a 1968 set that matches closely. BStrauss3 thank you I think it would be nice for some of us new members. such as myself, if you and the other member could explain how this is done. what are the steps for focus stacking. I watched some you tube videos. just don't know if that is the same way.
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 Posted 01/05/2016  10:49 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BStrauss3 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I played with the trials of both of the commercial programs, Zerene http://zerenesystems.com/) and Helicon http://www.heliconsoft.com/helicons...icon-focus/) before picking Helicon because it had - for me - the better interface between my Canon body and the StackShot.

Both sites have good tutorials. And you don't have to have a StackShot (it just automates the process), but a focus rail with fine adjustments works great manually:



(note that after some experimentation, the backlight was found to be less than helpful for coins. It works great for some other types of photos)

What you do is carefully focus the camera so the highest points of the coin are in focus with the lens locked down (preview mode some cameras call it).

Take a picture.
Make a small adjustment of the focus rail so that the focus moves deeper into the coin.
Repeat until the focus moves past the lowest point.

With a little practice you can do this pretty smoothly and take maybe 5 or 6 shots (with the automated StackShot it's easy to take lots more, but it's rarely necessary).

You feed them into the program and press the magic button.

After a few minutes (depending on computer speed) you are presented with the stacked image.

This produces some amazing images.
-----Burton
47 year / Life ANA member (joined 12/1/1973)
Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA
Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, OnLinw Coin Club
Owned by four cats and a wife of 37 years (joined 1983)
Pillar of the Community
Canada
2268 Posts
 Posted 01/06/2016  7:11 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rocky to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
wow thank you so much for sharing burton. I like your setup. that lens gives you a nice long working distance. that would help a lot with the lighting. I have a 100mm f4 Minolta bellows lens. it give me a nice long working distance for nickel coins. making them easier to light. again thank you
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 Posted 01/06/2016  7:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BStrauss3 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well, for run-of-the mill stuff I have the Canon macro lens - makes for a much smaller stack although it has less working room.

That's fine since lately I've mostly been photographing slabs for David Schwager's 2nd edition sample slab book (I'm about 1/3 of the way through) and with that setup I can do a full frame 14mm 3 cent silver so I haven't had to return to the bellows for a while.

This is one of my best efforts... it's a split after strike 3 cent silver and to the eye there is almost zero detail, but through the magic of stacking...


-----Burton
47 year / Life ANA member (joined 12/1/1973)
Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA
Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, OnLinw Coin Club
Owned by four cats and a wife of 37 years (joined 1983)
Pillar of the Community
Canada
2268 Posts
 Posted 01/10/2016  12:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rocky to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
wow burton excellent thank you so much. last night a company contacted me. at 10 o'clock last night they had 12 cameras. I thought about it at midnight they had 2 left. at 5 minutes after 12 I purchased the last one they had. they told me where I could watch 2 videos on focus stacking. if what they are showing works. you don't even touch the camera. it is all done will tethered and from the mouse on the computer. they told me they guarantee this will work. if not they will give me my money back in full push pay the return shipping. the camera is on the way. I shall see if this works.
Pillar of the Community
Canada
6013 Posts
 Posted 01/10/2016  4:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mcshilling to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What type of camera is this Rocky?
Pillar of the Community
Canada
2268 Posts
 Posted 01/10/2016  10:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rocky to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
its a canon camera. I had let a company know what I want to do with a camera. they had informed me. they would let me know when some of these units were available. I don't want to say to much because if it don't work that's not good either. the Sony was suppose to be able to tether. let me tell you it don't and there tethering program sucks. Sony should have a sit down with canon. ok have a great one. I will let you know hen the unit is here. I will fire it up and see how it goes
Pillar of the Community
Canada
2268 Posts
 Posted 01/13/2016  08:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rocky to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I am totally amazed at what you did with that 3 cent split strike burton. so you say you lock your camera down. do you move the coin. to shot your stack shots or do you move your camera. I was reading some of articles in the book written on the Sony alpha series camera. when they talked about focus stacking. they pictured this tool and talked about moving the camera. here is the image of the tool they was discussing. I am just wondering how you do burton. thank you so much for shareing

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