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Replies: 182 / Views: 49,029 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2815 Posts |
Thanks, SsuperDdave. At this point I'm hoping I can make some modest improvements just by experimenting with light as you suggested. I think this is the only other option left to me given that I'm using an iPhone. It just doesn't have all the other functions of a professional camera, but it works to my liking for use on this forum. Learning about this has been very rewarding for me. 
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I'm going to suggest one other improvement, which I didn't notice until your last huge image: The bottom seems a bit lacking in focus by comparison to the top. I'm thinking you could slightly refine your alignment to the coin for a more perfect parallel - I can't believe I'm talking about this to a guy shooting with a cellphone  - by shooting a small mirror. Your goal will be to put the image of the camera's lens as perfectly in the center of the resulting picture as you can, which results in the best-possible perpendicularity between camera and subject. Further, trying to create a rig which allows you to duplicate this setup easily should be a goal. Beyond that, there's nothing about what you're doing here which does not impress.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2815 Posts |
Quote: I'm going to suggest one other improvement, which I didn't notice until your last huge image:
The bottom seems a bit lacking in focus by comparison to the top. I'm thinking you could slightly refine your alignment to the coin for a more perfect parallel - I can't believe I'm talking about this to a guy shooting with a cellphone - by shooting a small mirror. Thank you very much for this suggestion. Now I have an idea of what to practice with. I'm going to shoot the Morgan dollar again to see what kind of results I get. I'll post them here when finished. 
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2815 Posts |
OK, I was going to do this tomorrow, but I couldn't resist trying out your suggestion. I took new pictures of the 1902-O Morgan, centering the coin with the camera lens as you suggested. Here are the results, which I think turned out much better. ** The ONLY thing I did differently, other than centering, was placing my hand over the middle of the tube lamp to try and eliminate the hot spot. As a result, the luster really comes out and pops! I think it worked fairly well. What do you think? Anything else you can think of in terms of better quality?  
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I have to tell you, Darth, I'm stunned by the quality of the iPhone's camera. There's nothing I can think of to improve the image of the Morgan. Nothing. Your next move is to shoot other stuff. Copper, circulated silver, gold if you have it. Let's see what this puppy is capable of. 
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2815 Posts |
Will do, SD. That is what I have planned. I'm really curious as to how it will shoot gold. I have a $50 gold buffalo, but it's in a safe at my dad's house right now. I'm going on vacation next week, but when I get back I'm going to shoot all kinds of coins in various conditions. Looking forward to it. SsuperDdave- your "seal of approval" means a lot. 
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I think you're going to be happy with the rest of it. Aside Proofs, lustrous Morgans are perhaps the most difficult of all coins to shoot because of their huge open fields reflecting so much light back into the lens. Looking forward to more. 
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2815 Posts |
I had a little time tonight to shoot this circulated Morgan. With no luster to contend with, this one was a little easier to shoot. The hues and overall appearance of the coin are spot on.  I have a feeling that proofs are going to be a nightmare with the iPhone, though. I've got to figure out how to eliminate the phone's reflection in the fields. Any suggestions?
Edited by Darth Morgan 10/13/2013 12:12 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
9792 Posts |
On the note of a grey card - Most camera bags inside are grey very close to 18% for the sole reason you can use them as exposure points when out in nature or wherever to get an accurate reading from your light meter or camera. At least the older bags from film days used to be made that way.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2815 Posts |
This is a raw shot using the 18% gray card. This is how my photos appear before any cropping is done. As you can see, the image is very "easy" on the eyes. There are no harsh shadows or hot spots. You are essentially seeing the coin as it really appears, and you can be confident of this due to the background. My next goal is to try and figure the best setup for shooting slabbed coins. The slab itself is the problem, due to its reflectivity. I may just have to settle for shooting at an angle. Let me know what you think.  
Edited by Darth Morgan 10/19/2013 10:32 am
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I've found success with shooting slabs just by angling the lighting, not the subject, but that is with the ability to manually focus. You might have to angle the coin since you have to autofocus.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2815 Posts |
SD- here is my first shot of a slabbed coin using my current setup. I think it turned out OK, or at least as well as I expected.  I was also practicing with a Peace dollar last night, and I came up with these two images for comparison. I think the brighter image on the right is more accurate, since the gray background is not "dimmed" to a near black. However, I like how the details show more in the image on the left. It is also much easier to look at. What do you think? 
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I like the slab pic - being a Proof complicates things yet further and I think I'd like that Quarter cropped out and posted on its' own. The Peace dollar shows the problem with lustrous silver; the ideal for that one (to me) would be somewhere in between the two shots. I don't think the line-oriented light source plays well with this one.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2815 Posts |
Quote: The Peace dollar shows the problem with lustrous silver; the ideal for that one (to me) would be somewhere in between the two shots. I don't think the line-oriented light source plays well with this one. Yes- that's exactly what I was thinking. I'm going to try blocking the tube light and have a LED lamp directly on the coin to see how that works. Here is a close-up shot of the Vermont quarter from a different photo I took earlier. I think the coin appears better here than in the slab photo.  Here is an angled shot I tried when using a black background:  A straight shot with black background:  Then a straight shot with a white background: the luster really shows in this photo- These were test shots I made before I got the gray card.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2815 Posts |
OK- I tried photographing the Peace dollar obverse again with the addition of a LED lamp as stated earlier. I think I captured the "middle" shot of the previous two I posted earlier. Here is the large image:  And here it is added to the far right of the previous two photos for comparison.  I'm pleased with this so far, but I know I can improve it, even if it isn't by much.
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Replies: 182 / Views: 49,029 |