| Author |
 Replies: 56 / Views: 8,362 |
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1208 Posts |
First off, sorry for losing your father.
I too have a similar situation with my father's collection (not coins).
He collected something that I knew nothing about, and it wasn't until
his last days that he started trying to teach me a lifetime worth of
knowledge... Needless to say, that didn't work well, and I now have a
collection to deal with, without having the level of knowledge I need
to do the job right.
I haven't read all the suggestions, but knowing this crowd, I'm sure
you have got lots of good info so far. Most of the folks here are sharp.
*Don't clean anything.
*Don't touch anything with bare hands, and even with coin safe gloves on,
there is still no reason to ever touch the faces of your coins.
*Keep your coins out of "weather". Store them in a climate controlled
environment. No excessive humidity, out of direct sunlight, in a temperature
range that you would find comfortable. A closet in your air conditioned house
is perfect. No lawn sheds, attics, storage units, etc...
I would recommend taking your sister and the coins to a coin shop, and ask
them for an offer to buy. In most cases, you'll get an offer that is going
to represent what any dealer will give you "off the cuff". Thank the dealer,
and politely decline to sell. Now use his offer, divide it in half, and now
pay your sister that amount. Buy her out of the coins. This way you can avoid
tensions within your family, and now you own the coins outright, without
pressure to sell quickly. This will give you all the time you need to go through
everything meticulously, and properly, to decide just what you want to keep
and what you want to sell. You will also be able to maximize your selling price
because you are not being pressured to do it quickly. Being in a hurry, and
having different ideas of what you should be doing with the coins, is just
going to give someone out there the room they need to give you less for the
coins than they should, if not just cheat you outright.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
589 Posts |
Quote:
Some folks said that removing coins (carefully) for the purpose of taking pictures was OK. Now I'm worried again heh. If you do it CAREFULLY, and while wearing 100% cotton gloves (keep your finger oils off the surfaces), you should be fine. Just do it one at a time, and do it on a proper surface (I'd say, something 100% cotton again). Quote:It was my understanding that I'd have to pay a large % in fees at an auction. Since I don't mind putting in the time and I'm not in a huge hurry, wouldn't an option like ebay get me more for the coins? ebay has a 10% fee unless you're a to rated plus seller or (I think) if you have a store, or if you donate some percentage of the total amount to something. Plus there's Paypal's 30 cents + 2.9% per transaction, with a slightly decreasing percentage if you make over certain amounts per month. Plus I think ebay's fee is capped at something. So, unless you're expecting to make moon money off of a single item, figure a loss of 13% plus shipping and insurance, so maybe 14-15% when selling on ebay. Which outs you in range of places like Heritage Auctions (which I believe is 17.5%), plus with Heritage you get a LOT more visibility and chances than with ebay, as you get coin collectors with cash and that are willing to buy. There's nothing wrong with ebay, if you'd choose to go that route...but there are unscrupulous people there. You could sell a 2000 USD coin, tracking shows it was delivered, they claim not as described, you agree to a refund, they send you back a stick of gum with tracking, and you're left trying to prove to ebay that the buyer didn't return the coin. They'll side with him since tracking shows "it" was returned to you, and since "buyers are honest". ebay is a risk. The most valuable thing I've sold there was for $80. That was a week ago. Now I'm just watching the clock count down to when they can no longer file a case with ebay. But filing a case with Paypal could be done anytime within 6 months now. Whereas with an auction house, there isn't the ability for people to play around. |
|
Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
I noticed that no one said what TPG to use. If you plan on selling them then go with PCGS first and then NGC as a second choice. If you plan on keeping them then go with ANACS,IMHO. John1  |
|
Valued Member
Canada
79 Posts |
Going to an auction house like Heritage can help you get the most exposure and money for your coins. I have sold at Heritage in the past and only paid 7.5% commission. I cannot say what type of seller's fee you might be offered by them, but it cannot hurt to call and tell them the value of the collection.
|
|
Valued Member
Canada
79 Posts |
I would not go to ANACS for a TPG because at some point you will want to sell them and buyers prefer PCGS or NGC |
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
 My advise is if you don't need the money, don't sell something your Dad cherished so much. As to your Sister. Simply ask her if she would consider you buying her out of the collection. Don't know if you have the money to do that, but might be worth a try. As long as you don't need money right now, might be a great idea. And then you could carry on what your Dad started. And too, someday you could pass on those and yours to your kids in the future. One thing I found out about Sisters not wanting things from their parents is as they get older themselves, they start wishing they had kept more of their relatives things. |
|
Valued Member
United States
234 Posts |
I don't think anyone has mentioned this or I have missed it. Third party graders put the value of the coins on their website. So if you have a NGC or PCGS graded coin if you punch the certification number into the site it will give you somewhat of a estimate. Also even though your not going to use ebay you can still check ebays past auction data to evaluate the value. Selling the coins Some of the larger companies buy coins over the phone. If you have certified coins perhaps you might want to call APMEX give them some cert numbers and see what they might be interested in paying. The lower value coins if you choose if there under a $100 could be auctioned at a local coin club. I suggest you visit a local coin club and look into this possible opportunity. Edited by Brian34Jersey
01/20/2015 1:30 pm
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1704 Posts |
Since there are only 80 coins post a complete list of them in two parts, one for the certified coins with the denomination, date/mint mark, grading service and grade on the label. The second part are the ones not certified (raw) with the denomination, date/mint mark and whatever grade is written on what the coin is in. This will help in determining which coins should have pictures posted for review. It is easier to look up values for the graded coins since they have already been certified. PCGS has a free auction results link where you can get auction results which can be sorted by grade http://www.pcgs.com/auctionprices/ You could also sign up for free with PCGS and NGC to have access to their coin values. ebay closed auction results can be difficult to find prices realized if you do not get the title of the listing just right. Just using the denomination and date gives the most results then it could take a lot of time sifting through them to find the ones which exactly match your coin. Quite a few dealers I know are sending their coins to NGC for grading instead of PCGS as PCGS has become quite inconsistent lately. One dealer I know sent in 20 coins to PCGS and they all came back with details, cleaned labels. He had a dealer friend crack them out and submit them to PCGS and 18 of the 20 were returned to him with grades with just two having a details, cleaned label. |
|
Valued Member
 United States
228 Posts |
Quote:
Since there are only 80 coins post a complete list of them in two parts... OK, I can try to make up a list soon. Quote:
One dealer I know sent in 20 coins to PCGS and they all came back with details, cleaned labels. He had a dealer friend crack them out and submit them to PCGS and 18 of the 20 were returned to him with grades with just two having a details, cleaned label. Do you mean PCGS said 18 of the coins were "cleaned" while NGC only said 2 were cleaned? I'm on the east coast so maybe NGC would be easier for me in general, since they are in Florida if I'm not mistaken. |
|
Valued Member
United States
245 Posts |
No, I think he meant that PCGS gave him completely different results on two separate submittals.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1307 Posts |
What state are you in, possibly you are near a member here from the board? I'm not telling you to go meet anyone, but I'd rather sell to a individual that is keeping them for his or her collection, than to a coin store, that has to pay rent, just saying? Be careful, no matter what you do, or who you deal with. Sorry for your loss.
Regards
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1704 Posts |
Quote:
No, I think he meant that PCGS gave him completely different results on two separate submittals. This is exactly what happened, the same coins with two completely different results. |
|
Valued Member
United States
228 Posts |
I'll post pics soon for at least some of the coins (in the grading subforum)...just got my extension tubes and I think I can make my tripod work...just waiting on some lights. For now, I'll post a list of the coins...here's the first installment anyway, with the grading and short notes when present...hopefully no typos: 1832 Half Cent - AU 50/50 ANACS 1858 Cent (Small letters) - G/VG 1859 Cent (Indian) - AU 50/50 ANACS 1864 Two Cent - MS 60 (Dk Brown) 1868 Two Cent - AU 50/50 ANACS 1871 Two Cent - AU 50 1862 Three Cent - AU 50 crossed off and MS 60 written 1879 Five Cent (Shield) - AU 50/50 ANACS 1883 Five Cent (Liberty) - MS 60/60 ANACS 1883 Five Cent (Liberty) - PR 64 PCGS 1883/2 Five Cent (Shield) 1886 Five Cent (Liberty) - G4 1887 Five Cent (Liberty) - PF 63 ANACS 1890 Five Cent (Liberty) - PF 63 ANACS 1893 Five Cent (Liberty) - AU 50 1911 Five Cent (Liberty) - MS 60 1873 Ten Cent - VF 20 1904-S Ten Cent - VG/F 1913 Ten Cent - EF 40 1949-S Ten Cent - MS 63 1962-D Ten Cent - MS 63 1962 Ten Cent - MS 63 Any thoughts or comments welcome. I've looked up the values online and in the Red Book based on these gradings. Out of these, the 1883/2 certainly seems like it should be graded, but I'll make sure to post pics of that one to get some idea. If I'm not mistaken, the 1864 Two Cent was the first coin to have the "In God We Trust" motto, which is pretty cool. Man, there's a lot to learn heh. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1704 Posts |
The 1883/2 Shield nickel yes it should be authenticated. The 1886 Liberty nickel is the second rarest date in that series and should be sent in for grading as it would be worth the fees and much easier to get what it is worth. There is an open and close 3 varieties of the 1873 10c piece. If it does not have arrows at the date it is a slightly better coin. You can go here to see which it is http://www.seateddimevarieties.com/..._variety.htm scroll down and it will be listed by type in the Legend Obverse section. If it has arrows it will listed in the Legend Obverse - Arrows at Date. The 1904-S dime is a better date also. Overall there are some nice coins in his collection. Some of the ANACS graded coins could be worth the money to crossover to NGC or PCGS to get better prices for when it is time to sell them especially the ones with the photo certificates because the grading standards were much stricter then and now they could get a higher grade. |
|
Valued Member
United States
228 Posts |
Next installment...haven't really read up on these yet: 1806 Quarter - Browning 4 1907-D Barber quarter - MS 64/64 NCI 1914 Quarter - AU 50 1916-D Barber quarter MS 63/64 ANACS 1928 Standing Liberty quarter MS 65/65 NCI 1940 Quarter - MS 63 1940 Quarter - MS 60 1945 Washington quarter - MS 63 1820 Half - EF 40 1826 Half - Good VF 1837 Half - EF 1842 Half Seated (Small Date) 1853 Half - EF 40 1868 Half Liberty Seated - PF 60/60 ANACS 1885 Half Seated Liberty - proof 1893 Half US Columbian Exposition - MS 60 1935 Half - EF/AU |
| |
Replies: 56 / Views: 8,362 |
First Page
Posted 01/17/2015 12:48 am
