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Green Copper Corrosion - Chemistry

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BadThad's Avatar
United States
19955 Posts
 Posted 05/17/2008  4:02 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks you Kurt, you are correct. I don't know what EVO is, but if it's based on olive oil, it's a mixture of many organic acids and chemicals. These will all affect the patina of the coin. Think "like dissolves like", oils will solubilize any organic materials coating the surface, which will change the coins appearance. Additionally, the other organic acids and components are non-selective, they attack everything. My package is intended only to dissolve the copper sulfates and carbonates, while actually protecting the copper and copper oxide layer to maintain the patina.

This test is on-going, it's not over until the verdigris is gone. I'm just documenting the time progression here. I suspect this going to take a few days and some fomulation adjustments.

EDIT: Just wanted to add that my "day job" is chemist in the metalworking fluids industry. I do know a little about metals chemistry. LOL
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Edited by BadThad
05/17/2008 7:08 pm
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Vaslin's Avatar
United States
914 Posts
 Posted 05/17/2008  5:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Vaslin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
EVOO = Extra Virgin Olive Oil.

I'm quite excited about your progress! Thanks for sharing.
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chrsb's Avatar
United States
936 Posts
 Posted 05/17/2008  6:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chrsb to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thad,

Have you tried potassium cyanide on Lincoln's yet? I have read a couple articles saying that is what people used in the "old" days.
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BadThad's Avatar
United States
19955 Posts
 Posted 05/17/2008  7:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Chris - Yes, I did....it's aweful, it will clean the coin...right down the the metal, completely ruining it IMO. It destroys any original mint luster quickly leaving a dull finish. I've tried everything published I could find, all those methods do more damage than good. The fluid I'm working on will (or should) only remove the true verdigris.
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KurtS's Avatar
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5318 Posts
 Posted 05/17/2008  8:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KurtS to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
"Have you tried potassium cyanide on Lincoln's yet"

Please--no more Lincoln assassinations.
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BadThad's Avatar
United States
19955 Posts
 Posted 05/19/2008  5:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
After 3 days I'm down to the really tough stuff. I have a couple new forumlas to try next. To this point, it's been #9.1.

Initial

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

After 3 days

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

Initial Reverse

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

After 3 days Reverse

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

Some close ups

Initial

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

After 3 days

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

I've terminated this test. I think I was patina was lightened and the formula was unable to remove the last bit of corrosion.
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Edited by BadThad
05/19/2008 6:47 pm
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BadThad's Avatar
United States
19955 Posts
 Posted 05/19/2008  6:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Formula #8.6. Much more difficult test specimen, deep verdigris. Test started 19MAY2008 6:30PM.

Initial

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry
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BadThad's Avatar
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19955 Posts
 Posted 05/20/2008  5:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
#8.6
Initial
Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

1 Day

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

Close

Initial

Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

24 hours
Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

This verdigris is much heavier than the last coin. My adjustments to the fomula might be too weak. I also detect a bit of lightening of the patina, which is one of the reasons I changed the forumla. Changing the patina is unacceptable.

I have a new copper protection package to try soon. I might have to dip the coin in the protectant, let it dry, then use the anti-verdigris solution on the coin. Work continues.....
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Edited by BadThad
05/20/2008 5:53 pm
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Sap's Avatar
Australia
16831 Posts
 Posted 05/20/2008  11:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Sap to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
While you're experimenting, it might pay to check out some of the competition: Noble Roman Coins markets Gringgott's Wizard Mixes (yes, the name was apparently inspired by Harry Potter), and the stuff is mentioned and used with high praise over on the FORVM ancients forum.

Now, your target markets are going to be different. The people who buy uncleaned ancient coins and clean them up require a completely different mindset to collectors of modern coins, because ancient copper coins are supposed to look green. But the chemicals used may be the same or similar to what you're experimenting with, or have similar effects when used on a modern "greenie".
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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arthrene's Avatar
United States
1713 Posts
 Posted 05/20/2008  11:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add arthrene to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thad,
Have you done any experimentation on completely green coins (as opposed to just spots of verdigris)?
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03krafty's Avatar
United States
52 Posts
 Posted 05/21/2008  02:23 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 03krafty to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Badthad, I agree that the coins look lighter in your "after" photos, but the background also looks lighter. I am terrible at taking photos of coins, but I am pretty good with other subjects. Maybe you can find a way to take the photos in a controlled lighting situation, ie a room with no sunlight or at the same time each day? I am also wondering if you have a "control" coin, one that has approx. the same amount of patina to compare? Your experiment intrigues me greatly and I am waiting for your success so that I can buy some!!
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chrsb's Avatar
United States
936 Posts
 Posted 05/21/2008  2:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chrsb to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
how about peach juice? I have read good things on that one.
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BadThad's Avatar
United States
19955 Posts
 Posted 05/21/2008  6:58 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
While you're experimenting, it might pay to check out some of the competition: Noble Roman Coins markets Gringgott's Wizard Mixes (yes, the name was apparently inspired by Harry Potter), and the stuff is mentioned and used with high praise over on the FORVM ancients forum.

Now, your target markets are going to be different. The people who buy uncleaned ancient coins and clean them up require a completely different mindset to collectors of modern coins, because ancient copper coins are supposed to look green. But the chemicals used may be the same or similar to what you're experimenting with, or have similar effects when used on a modern "greenie".


Those products would have nothing in common with mine. Those are dilutable solid cleaners, mine is liquid. Mine is a unique and patentable invention, even as it stands now. It's a reacted material like no other, not just a mix of chemicals.
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BadThad's Avatar
United States
19955 Posts
 Posted 05/21/2008  7:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Thad,
Have you done any experimentation on completely green coins (as opposed to just spots of verdigris)?



Yes I have, sadly, I only had one test specimen. The obverse was completely corroded and I was able to remove most of it. That's the coin that got me excited enough to post here. After only approximately 3 minutes of sonication, about 75% of the verdigris dissolved and the reverse patina was virtually intact.
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BadThad's Avatar
United States
19955 Posts
 Posted 05/21/2008  7:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Badthad, I agree that the coins look lighter in your "after" photos, but the background also looks lighter. I am terrible at taking photos of coins, but I am pretty good with other subjects. Maybe you can find a way to take the photos in a controlled lighting situation, ie a room with no sunlight or at the same time each day? I am also wondering if you have a "control" coin, one that has approx. the same amount of patina to compare? Your experiment intrigues me greatly and I am waiting for your success so that I can buy some!


The lighting is controlled. However, my positioning of the coin for "quick and dirty" pictures is not so good. Mostly what I do is for me and my eyes and I'm just documenting here. I don't want to spend a lot of time with the photography in these early stages. Remember, I only discovered this a few days ago, there's much to be done.
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