Key Date Compromises

Problem-free all the way since you underlined 'future value' as priority with limited funds now
Authenticated as well re: key dates

Agreed. Not all problem coins are created equal and things like polished or the really mangled ones I would avoid as well. Slightly cleaned or minor issue details coins are the coins I actually believe are perfect for albums as there are a number of them were it does seem to be a shame they get hit with the details label yet still have some decent eye appeal.

As for the initial question of the tread it depends what coins are being talked about as mentioned. I am honestly not convinced that low grade straight graded keys are a better buy or easier to sell when you look at how many AG or G ones are out there for so many series. You get kind of stuck in no mans land with some of them in the sense that they are abundant (16-D FR/AG Dime) but still costly and a sizeable number of collectors would rather save longer for a nicer example.

Usually the low grade vs details comes down to a fiances, either someone cannot afford the higher grades which is most people or they have a comfort threshold for the cost of a coin they don't want to cross. Would I run out and buy every details coin I see, no I wouldn't but if I was doing an album I would be more inclined.

Really kind of the point I am getting at is that I don't believe it is as cut and dry or a no brainer decision. I have definitely seen VF/XF details coins that I would rather have over a AG/G04 coin and some of those low grade keys can be difficult to sell for a fair price if you decided to sell when they are in the low grade no mans land of not much detail but not enough for a low ball (low ball collectors generally seem to avoid keys anyway). As mentioned before details coins can be bought and sold just like any others can.

I do believe the decision is a lot more complicated and that it really does just depend on the details coin in question and the budget in question as well as personal taste and comfort levels.

Always try to find the problem free coin even if in a lower grade. I'm working on an IHC set right now. While I'm primarily shooting for AU - MS in most of the dates, I dropped down to a problem free and very nice VF35 for the 1877 and XF40 or 45 in some other semi-key dates. At the end of the day, you want to be happy with the choices you made. Otherwise, you will be looking to pick up better examples in the future.

Here's a coin that I intentionally purchased and intentionally had slabbed with variety attribution.
It is in an NGC slab labeled FINE DETAILS / OBV GRAFFITI, ENV. DAMAGE.





Why did I pay for all this?
It has an R-5+ rarity, 31-75 known, "Rare"
There's a strong chance that I'll never encounter another (but I won't stop looking).

In this case it's, at least in part, the big "X" in front of Liberty's chin.

Pricing coins that are rarely listed by variety type (in this case 1831 Browning-7) is not easy.
My resources say that an 1831 common date graded Fine would be in the $150-200 range.
A DETAILS coin would at most be half that.
Let's just say I paid a bunch more because of its rarity.

Yes; whenever necessary and possible!

Bill

You got me there! Since I'm so new I'm sure I haven't left too much money on the table yet. I've been using past selling prices and trying to consider differences beteeen the coins, as a basic price check. Is there an actual catalog that approximates values?

This is important for and of us trying to make good decisions.

Thanks!

This is what I've been doing but I'm sure it will take quite a few transactions before I am good at it.