Wide AM Personal Crisis

IMO the most reliable diagnostic for the WAM/CAM variety is not the spacing of the AM.

Observe the spacing of the A in T-A-T of STATES.

If the A is centered between the two adjacent T then you have a WAM

If the A is shifted closer to the 2nd T then you have a CAM.

Works every time and is not subject to die wear like the spacing of AM is.




Nope - the AM spacing for any given coin is subject to die deterioration/wear. Go with the T-A-T I discuss above and you'll lose the stress of trying to figure this out.

Remember the Close AM is called Close AM not Touching AM. While many times people will say "the A and M are touching" there will be a slight A&M gap and as the dies are worn and repolished this gap will grow, but still be smaller than the width on the leg of the M.

Also please don't use ebay listings as a learning tool. There are SO many misidentified coins that it is useless as a learning tool. Too many people see the dollar signs and not their coin.

Use the Search box above to find many past threads on this subject with accompanying photos.

@ Silver Surfer 81, All of my books state that the G must also have the Serif.

Nickel answer your question.

It is ambigue by the names WAM and CAM and we look fast to AM in AMERICA. In fact it is the Design Hubs used. And in this design you have: TAT in states, FG and what manny ignore the axe of the head-bust.

You has three kind of peoples: Old collectors and dealers which protect theirs status quo, The evasive peoples which go by the first words, but are empty and the really resouce peoples which if time ago find something will aknoleadge and accept the new studies.

Beside this you have the Scamers as on YouToube which by big words go for fast revenue without responsabilities. (They sell with no return accept).

I hope I helped you with the three main parameters. Also the Bust and the head is quiet different. Mint use different Hubs for manny years and not only for one, with exceptions.