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Collecting 1981 Mint Sets: My New Coinweek Article

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Pillar of the Community
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 Posted 06/22/2012  7:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list
@basebal21- the key to that strategy is get yourself some Saflips (my preference- though you may like 2x2 cardboard holders... and start assembling sets. I put the best examples in the flips and the ones that I know I won't send it to get graded in tubes. As I buy sets, I separate the coins into two classes- potential submits and tubes. When the tubes of choice BU coins fill up- I sell them. After I've assembled a couple dozen "keepers" I go through them again and select only the best ones... these will tend to grade MS-65 or better. The key is pattern recognition and having enough of a sample size of nice coins to be able to learn how to have discriminating taste. I pretty much know for series such as Ikes or Susan B. Anthony dollars or Kennedy half dollars what I have in hand before I submit. dimes are tougher, in my opinion, as are nickels and by far I think cents are the hardest series... as copper is so re-active.

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 Posted 06/23/2012  12:07 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cladking to your friends list
Great article with countless great points.

It's truly incredible just how overlooked all the moderns really are. The '81-S dollar comes just awful. Sure there are lots of fairly well made coins in the mint sets but they are all marked and most are badly marked. Just a nice decent Gem appears only in about every 250th mint set yet this coin gets no premium. Can you imagine how much attention it would draw if it were this scarce and "just" a variety? It would sell for thousands probably but here's an issue available nowhere else and it's just simply ignored.

The Philly quarter is interesting in this set as well. About 95% of them have unattractive surfaces. They are simply not smooth. These often come very high grade but finding nice attractive coins with flat surfaces is tough because the majority of the dies used for these were misaligned. There's also an interesting variety on the Philly quarter that gets little attention. About one in 160 has a type "d" reverse which was later modified and used on all quarters after 1984. It is quite different with the Pick Up Point being a greater distance between the right side of the N in UNUM and the eagle's head.

The '81 is a great set and sells for about as little as it ever has. All these coins appear as nice PL's once in a while.

Keep up the great work. You have at least one big fan.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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 Posted 06/23/2012  12:28 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mkman123 to your friends list
Good read even though I don't collect coins this recent
Bedrock of the Community
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 Posted 06/23/2012  12:55 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list

Quote:
@basebal21- the key to that strategy is get yourself some Saflips (my preference- though you may like 2x2 cardboard holders... and start assembling sets. I put the best examples in the flips and the ones that I know I won't send it to get graded in tubes. As I buy sets, I separate the coins into two classes- potential submits and tubes. When the tubes of choice BU coins fill up- I sell them. After I've assembled a couple dozen "keepers" I go through them again and select only the best ones... these will tend to grade MS-65 or better. The key is pattern recognition and having enough of a sample size of nice coins to be able to learn how to have discriminating taste. I pretty much know for series such as Ikes or Susan B. Anthony dollars or Kennedy half dollars what I have in hand before I submit. dimes are tougher, in my opinion, as are nickels and by far I think cents are the hardest series... as copper is so re-active.


I may just go ahead and spend a saturday doing something like this one weekend. The sets themselves are pretty cheap and could get a bunch of them at one time from a local coin shop near me who just has stacks and stacks of sets in all dates.

What do you mean when you fill the tube you sell them? Do you sell for more than face value as a special roll type thing or just use them or really just depends on how lucky you were with the sets you got?

I do really like the cardboard holders but for something like this it would be much easier to just use flaps which I do happen to have a stack of and would be nice to put them to good use.

Looking at the price chart and just how difficult some of the smaller coins are to really tell I dont think it would really be worth the risk for me to try dimes or nickles or even cents really despite the nice premium if you hit the cent. But I dont mind taking some chances and I'm sure I will end up sending a cent or two.
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 Posted 06/23/2012  07:22 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list
@basebal- My recommendation- build BU rolls of the coins that aren't worth saving and list them for sale at a price, i'd say 2.0 to 2.4x face (asking for more is a little greedy and I can't promise that they'd sale. I have been keeping a spreadsheet of my sunk cost, percentage of coins I pull out, and what I submit. Remember, you can actually sell holdered coins and get your money back (in most cases- unless you totally blow it and the grade comes back MS-62 or MS-63... Just monitor what your costs and what your returns are and you'll be fine. Besides, after a few months of this and you'll know the deal for any particular date and after that, it's off to the races, man.

@CladKing- you are right about the "D" reverse. Travesty really that such an important RDV isn't even acknowledged by PCGS at the moment. As always, I greatly appreciate your comments- and input.
Edited by cc99999
06/23/2012 07:36 am
Bedrock of the Community
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 Posted 06/23/2012  3:11 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list
CC thanks for the help. I'm just going to assume my first batch will be a sunk cost in learning and hopefully the 62s and 63s will be a thing of the past after the trial run. Any advice for the best way to open the mint sets? I've broken coins out of slabs before but never a mint set
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 Posted 06/23/2012  3:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list
scissors and a soft, non abrasive textile cloth... Ultrasuede or a similar type fabric should be fine- but anything soft- be sure whatever you put it on is not coated with corrosive chemicals. you can even cut each coin out individually and slide them down onto your hands, being sure to hold only the rims. Let me know how you do!
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 Posted 06/23/2012  3:40 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list
Might give it a shot next saturday Ill let you know how I think it went and then how PCGS tells me it went lol. But I think when I remove them the ones I'm sending in anyway Ill try and just slide right into the flips without touching them
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 Posted 06/23/2012  10:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cladking to your friends list

Quote:
CC thanks for the help. I'm just going to assume my first batch will be a sunk cost in learning and hopefully the 62s and 63s will be a thing of the past after the trial run. Any advice for the best way to open the mint sets? I've broken coins out of slabs before but never a mint set


I always tell people, especially beginners to sets, that the best way to really see the difference is to get a stack of just one date and mint packages together and go through looking at each individual coin in turn. Start with say the largest coin in the set (half dollar in this case) and look at each Philly half one after the other. A few will just "pop" out at you as being clearly superior. Depending on the specific coin this can be anywhere for every twelfth coin ('72-D quarter) to every one hundred and fiftieth coin ('76 tI $1). When you get enough of these coins that pop look at them right after another and about every tenth coin will pop or be head and shoulders above the rest. I save the first group and the second group are often worth submitting.

You can just cut the coins out as you go along the lines thus keeping the coins in the mint plastic. This will sometimes allow air in so it can be risky for the coins. There are several short cuts you'll lerrn with practice. I like to go through all the sets before cutting any to save entire sets if every coin is Gem. Complete Gem sets were common before 1980 when robots started packing these. Indeed you'll see lots of all bad sets and all nice sets. It looks like the letters to the editors that used to say the new sets were awful and the same sets being referred to as good as proof sets were both right. I also save intact variety sets unless they are very unattractive.

Another nice thing about looking at the coins one after another is you're a little more likely to spot varieties. I just found a brand new unreported 1992-D quarter variety the other day in a mint set. Sorry, no picture, but the PUP is a greater distance between the B in LIBERTY and the bust. It could be caused by being hubbed only once but I'll just set it aside for now. It's very Gemmy too.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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 Posted 06/24/2012  01:26 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list
Clad thanks for the advice about the looking one after another. I have some old graded commems I was planning on using as a reference but I like your idea a lot. I still expect it to be hit or miss on the first run. I'm guessing the sets are only like 10 or 15 dollars if I'm not mistaken from a quick search. If thats the case ill probably get 10 or 20 use youre method try and sell some off and then get another 10 or 20 and scan again then compare what I pull out to what I already have. After that I will send in my best 3 or 4 coins just to see how I do. If I get close or hit something ill definitely continue but if I am WAY off that may be the end of the experiment.

This would be my first serious journey into proof sets other than collecting the silver ones. I think I'm going to stick to the quarters and dollars unless something really pops out. I would like to try pennies to but am just so unfamiliar with them and what to look for
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 Posted 06/24/2012  11:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cc99999 to your friends list
@basebal- you said proof sets, didn't you mean mint sets? you can do better than 10-15 bucks.
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 Posted 06/24/2012  11:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cladking to your friends list

Quote:
Clad thanks for the advice about the looking one after another. I have some old graded commems I was planning on using as a reference but I like your idea a lot. I still expect it to be hit or miss on the first run. I'm guessing the sets are only like 10 or 15 dollars if I'm not mistaken from a quick search. If thats the case ill probably get 10 or 20 use youre method try and sell some off and then get another 10 or 20 and scan again then compare what I pull out to what I already have. After that I will send in my best 3 or 4 coins just to see how I do. If I get close or hit something ill definitely continue but if I am WAY off that may be the end of the experiment.

This would be my first serious journey into proof sets other than collecting the silver ones. I think I'm going to stick to the quarters and dollars unless something really pops out. I would like to try pennies to but am just so unfamiliar with them and what to look for


The latest bid I have for the set is $7. It contains $4.82 face value. The SBA's each bid over $3 each so if you sell the rolls you'll have about a $3 profit on each set. I assure you this will not be as easy as you might think. Making money in coins is rarely easy so go slow at first and expect an education. I can tell you straight off the bat that if you can find a buyer for '81-S SBA's they won't want ugly and unattractive specimens and nearly 50% won't be saleable.

In only 15 or 20 sets you won't have a lot of keepers. A penny, a couple dimes, a quarter, a half, and a Denver dollar are about what to expect. One of these is probably nice enough to submit but it will be only a twenty or thirty dollar coin in all likelyhood so the profit is very small. You never know and there are sapectacular coins that show up in the sets. This is just the probability. You might get one set and have several coins that go for huge premiums.

I mostly just set the coins aside. Eventually people will wake up and realize they didn't quit making coins in 1965 and will want a set of them. If no one set any aside there would be no coins when it happens because they would all get into circulation. This might sound funny to most people that coins with mintages in the tens and hundreds of millions are scarce but it has happened in one country after another allover the world. Coins with enormous mintages either aren't available at all or are only available in poor condition. US moderns will never really be rare in uncirculated condition but many of these dates were rare in Gem even in the year they were minted and the decades have been most unkind to them. People don't pay any attention to them and they end up in circulation or worse.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
Bedrock of the Community
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 Posted 06/24/2012  2:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add basebal21 to your friends list
Clad I definitely agree one day a lot of the modern sets will see a nice spike with the number that get broken open. When that day will be however I have absolutely no idea. I would guess some of these older ones are starting to approach rare territory by now for set standards, there just doesn't seem to be a huge market for them except for searching for gen coins.

My local coin shop lets you search pretty much anything besides rolls before buying it. Hopefully a quick glance over of the sets at the shop will eliminate any terrible sets but I am not sure what their inventory for the 81s are. They have a wall with all the sets but from memory I think most of them are from the 90s and on but I've never really taken that close of a look.

I figure worse comes to worse I could always just use the not so great coins at face value or try and bundle them in a lot of some sort. But probably will just spend them With ebay fees I dont really view it as worth it to really take a lot of time making the rolls and listing them ect if sya those 20 pennies will only sell for 2 or 3 dollars. Now if I could bunble 10 or 20 SBAs and sell it for 30 or 60 then that would certainly be worth the effort. But I do think Ill go through 20 batches of 20 before sending anything in.

I dont expect to make a lot of money by any means, or really any money. Just looking for something new to try see if its fun or not and if I do happen to get lucky on one or a few that would be fantastic. If not itll probably be the end of the experiment at least for a while anyway.

I really appreciate the help
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 Posted 06/24/2012  3:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cladking to your friends list
I've thought the day moderns would spike higher was at hand for 40 years now (1972). In the early days I was far more concerned with the rush coming too soon before I had the chance to complete all my collecions and take a financial position in the coins. Of course everything is different now and I've been promoting the coins for over a quarter century.

But, I still believe each day that goes by not only brings us closer to the day of reckoning but makes the spike ever stronger. Every day more of these coins are being lost because there is no demand. Mint sets get cut up because they sell for peanuts and all or most of the coins enter circulation. Circulation simply works as a meatgrinder that soon removes the coins from collectible condition.

I assumed the prices would skyrocket because most of the coins were as scarce as the '50-D nickel after only a few years. The '50-D got up to a couple hundred dollars in today's money. But over the years the populations of these coins have been severely impacted by attrition caused by lack of demand. To make matters worse today's collector doesn't especially value typical condition so everything from a clad dime to a bust dollar has only nominal value in typical condition. Collectors demand quality which means no scrapes or excessive wear on a bust dollar and Gem or near-Gem quality for a clad dime. Here is where moderns get tough; in near-Gem condition. Uncs are scarcer than '50-D nickels and Gems can be downright impossible.

But collectors don't know this and generally don't know that mint sets tend to not be picked over. They don't know that for the majority of issues the finest coins are in the mint sets. They don't even know that almost all coins in mint sets are well made and it can be very difficult to find well made coins in rolls. They don't know that many moderns aren't available in rolls because they weren't saved.

They simply don't care about collecting the coins because they percieve them as common and debased junk. But every day that goes by there are more people who use the coins day in and day out and don't associate the loss of silver with them. Rather than seeing the heavy hand of government destroying good money they see old and new coins being used to purchase things and make change. Each year there are more collectors and fewer surviving mint sets. When these trends conflict prices will rise and then spike as everyone suddenly wants to get on board.

This is happening with modern coins all over the world and I don't know why it wouldn't happen with ours (at least in the long term).
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
Edited by cladking
06/24/2012 3:22 pm
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 Posted 06/30/2012  6:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Billmoody1952 to your friends list
You might also consider looking at the proof sets to try and find some type 2 coins. I received some from my dad a few years ago that he had ordered in 1981 and received them the last week of the year. He had 15 sets and 10had the type 2 SBA .they were a little cloudy so sent them off to Ngc to be cleaned and graded . They all came back prf 69 deep cameos. Also found some good Lincoln cents they came back in prf 69. At that time they were valued pretty high but have come down in price since. Got a nice article written about them though . Good hunting......
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