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 Replies: 21 / Views: 3,268 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1234 Posts |
@Badger Mint and Classic Coins: I live in an area that has gun shows, not coin shows, my LCS even deals in guns and ammo. I have ear problems that makes changing altitude painful, so even if I could afford to go to a coin show I would be in agony the entire time. The best price I have found for dateless on line with shipping is 34 cents per for a roll of 40, or I could go for bulk and get 200 for 45.70 total paying 22.85 cent for each. Quote:
Has anyone done a set of these? I'm going to put a set together any advice? Thanks everyone Unless you are a jet-setter that hits dozens of conventions a year or are willing to pay top dollar, or have a good dealer locally. Don't bother it's too much of a hassle. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
I've got a set; mostly raw. I'll get the keys/semi-keys slabbed then sell off the rest. I only buy slabbed coins now so I'm getting rid of my raw coins. My Morgans, WLH's and Washington quarters have already been sold off (except for a few keys and those in my type set). |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1300 Posts |
Well,I do have access to a VERY good group of local coin shops, and since North Idaho and NE washington state are know for silver production,there is lots of coin shops nearby!! I got interested when I was putting my Jefferson books together, as I had to flip by all the Buffalo Nicks in there BU book, often times people bring collections into them they remove the coins grade them put them in flips and resell them.this set looks to be quite expensive as far as per coin cost.. Often times they make deals and always sell the coins for good prices!! I have done several books using them and a few ebay sellers that sell honest deals, I dont know if its right to share favorite ebay sellers but I am sure lots of us buy from the same sellers and perhaps even people on here have sold me coins!! I just truly enjoy this hobby, already started a second half dollar silver only proof collection. I can just enjoy the coins for hours and hours!! Edited by rupester
06/08/2014 6:21 pm
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Valued Member
United States
352 Posts |
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Valued Member
United States
76 Posts |
Its on my list of things to do later this year and into next year. There are a couple of coin shows coming up, so I may see what I can find. I really miss having a LCS around here.....
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7643 Posts |
You can get dateless buffs on ebay for less than $200 for 1000 coins "buy it now". When they go at auction you can get them in the 15 cent range. Most of those no dates will be "P" mint coins. You can buy expertly restored key date buffalos on ebay, too. Some are better quality than others so search out the best matching coins to your set if you go that route. There are some boardies here that sell very nice restored dates on ebay. Maybe they'll chime in with some pointers and a free sample of their work. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2311 Posts |
I have sold off a lot of acid restored ones. Can't say much because then I'll be giving away my marketing secrets. I know pretty much any price a restored one will sell for or cost. Since it' summer time I can't sell my 1915 D's anymore for 5 to 10 dollars. If you need a 1915 D full restored I can give you it for free. Now my opinions: If you're doing acid restored, you should do that in a folder. Never touched and normal ones with readable dates belong inside the Dansco Album. For the 1913 S Type 2, you can buy that pretty cheap today. One with the date weak in like AG go's for 100 to 160. I am working on doing a set of full dates and full horns. It won't be cheap but it's what I want to do. However, here is my want list: Dates I need: 1913 TI - D - S 1913 TII - D - S 1914 - D - S 1915 - D - S 1916 - D - S 1917 - S 1918 - P - D - S 1919 - D - S 1920 - D - S 1921 - S 1923 - S 1924 - D - S 1925 - P - D - S 1926 - P - D - S 1927 - P - D - S 1928 - P - D - S 1929 - D - S 1930 - P - S 1934 - P - D 1935 - P - D - S 1936 - D - S 1937 - S As you see, I nailed out some  Edited by solotime
06/08/2014 11:53 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Now working on set #7. 6 sets of those completed. Each one in better grades from #1 set to #7. Only a few more to finish #7. It's easy if you have coin shows in your area. By me there are at least 4 per Month.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4421 Posts |
Having put together a number of these sets over the years, I'd humbly suggest aiming for strictly fine coins, having full, sharp dates. Try to uniformly match the gray color and avoid settling for less than half a horn. A well matched set like this will easily sell, when the time comes. Personally, I'd focus on the actual date set and ignore the varieties like overdates, missing feathers and legs; this, till perhaps later. I found that by focusing on the mid-grade Buffs, my grading skills for the series much improved. If a Fine set will be too costly, try to follow the same suggestions, being sure that the base of the horn is visible for a solid VG.
Good luck!
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Pillar of the Community
861 Posts |
About 2 years ago, a lady came into the shop with a huge box filled with Library of coins and dansco books of Buffalo nickels. There were 60, mostly complete, sets. Paid just under $5,000 for all of them. I don't know why I did it. I found a book with every nickel ever minted from 1866-1938 and switched out the nicest buffs from the other books for a complete nickel collection. I decided to keep that and get rid of the other sets. Buffs are fun and a complete set can be put together for cheap. I give out complete sets as gifts. They look really spiffy in the old Library of Coins books. Good luck on your hunt. |
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Moderator
 United States
190060 Posts |
I have been working on a date-mint set, with only the 1913 varieties (no over dates or three-legged).
I only need four: 1913-D V2, 1913-S V1, 1913-S V2, and 1914-D.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2311 Posts |
The two feathers are pretty cool. I'd like to someday own a nice high end one.
Wanted to add, you should just do the normal mints and no errors or otherwise you'll be doing it for a long time.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2815 Posts |
I really enjoy Buffalo nickels. I want each coin in my set to have full dates and mms. Personally, I'm not concerned with full horns. Man, am I glad I don't have to worry about worn dates on any other coin type I collect. That would be a headache. I have learned quickly that it pays to be patient. Patience usually results in a better coin for a better price. Sometimes I just get plain lucky too. |
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Valued Member
United States
259 Posts |
I just completed a set of Buffaloes- it was my passion for quite awhile. I think the most important facet of set collecting is to decide on a set of ground rules up front.
1- What grade Buffalo is the minimum you find acceptable?
2- Within that grade, can you afford to complete a set to your definition (e.g. for me I only wanted date/MM coins, no errors)?
3- If your collection needed to be widely mixed grades, would you be happy with the set? Or would you more enjoy a set where the coins are relatively close in grade
4- What else is important to you? Do the coins need to be dirt-free? Spot-free? Do you mind rim nicks, hits to the surfaces, or scratches? How about the features? Will variations in strike be acceptable? Or do you prefer the same degree of details on each coin you collect within a grade? This is very important with Buffaloes, as some date/MM combinations are nearly impossible to find with good strikes.
Just some ideas- tell us what attributes are important to you and I bet we can offer more ideas.
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Moderator
United States
190060 Posts |
Quote:
1- What grade Buffalo is the minimum you find acceptable? My standards are a bit low. If I can read the date with a 10x or less, it is a keeper. Quote:
If your collection needed to be widely mixed grades, would you be happy with the set? Yes, because the set feels more dynamic. But this is a personal preference. Others do prefer cohesion. |
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Replies: 21 / Views: 3,268 |
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Posted 06/08/2014 6:17 pm
