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 Replies: 39 / Views: 3,224 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1283 Posts |
Carl, thanks for the input. You really think it's that nice of an example? I'll try to post some more accurate pictures of the obverse later tomorrow night. In the obv picture I posted it looks more red than reality. But the reverse photo is pretty accurate.
I'll definately rethink dowing a one point downgrade.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Carl, thanks for the input. You really think it's that nice of an example? I'll try to post some more accurate pictures of the obverse later tomorrow night. In the obv picture I posted it looks more red than reality. But the reverse photo is pretty accurate. I'll definately rethink dowing a one point downgrade. As I said I go to 2 to 4 coin shows a Month. I have 10 complete sets of Lincoln Cents. There is an 09S VDB in each and I have a few spares of that also. Been collecting for a long, long time. Your 09S VDB is one of the best I've ever seen. It is much better than all of mine. You have to remember, they don't make them anymore. No one knows how many are out there. You too may never see one like it again. You would really be a fool to let it go. Of course if it is to nice for you, you could just send it to me for a Birthday Present.  Not really my birthday, but I'll change it for that coin.  |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
One more item. I just visited a few on line dealers and looked for a 09S VDB. If you want to see many no where as nice as yours, try millersmint. And look at the prices. You'll keep yours.
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Valued Member
United States
287 Posts |
You should definitely keep it. I wish I could buy a nicer one. I have a VF+. I have owned a few: as low as a G4 and as high as AU50. MY 1914 D is only a G6. I miss my 1955/55 and my 22 Pl Die 2. They were AU55 and VF respectively.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1713 Posts |
Ok so I have a question for those of you more versed in VDB cents. What is a good price for both the 1909 and 1909s in each condition? I think this is something that I want to start saving for and if I come across a good priced one maybe I'll just splurge and go for it. So yes prices by grade that I should buy....
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1283 Posts |
quote:
What is a good price for both the 1909 and 1909s in each condition?
The Gray Sheet ask price is pretty accurate. You just have to pay attention in the MS grades whether they're referring to Red, Red-Brown, etc. The BEST way to price any coin is to make a Heritage Auction account (it's free), and then look at recent closed auction prices. MAKE SURE you pay attention to eye appeal and which grader certified each coin. Factor in which grader (if any) certified the coin you're interested in, and then factor in the eye appeal of the coin. At this point you have a very accurate picture of what's a fair price. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
717 Posts |
quote:
I have 10 complete sets of Lincoln Cents. There is an 09S VDB in each and I have a few spares of that also.
just carl: WOW! I don't even imagine ever getting one (and staying married  ). How much would you estimate your lowest grade / least expensive one is worth? Just wondering (& dreaming)  ? |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2443 Posts |
"Right now gray sheet is $685 for a Good. Mine is MS-64 RB and I paid $2500."
Good is at $685 and you paid $2500 for an MS64...seems like a good buy to me. I'm guessing that the good is so much because most collectors who are collecting can't afford the higher grades, so they go for the lower ones and that drives the price up?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1283 Posts |
quote:
I'm guessing that the good is so much because most collectors who are collecting can't afford the higher grades, so they go for the lower ones and that drives the price up?
From what I've seen that's how it works. I could be way off but here's the impression I get. When there's a large jump in price (to the next grade) the lower grades tend to go up. Why pay $500 for an AU when you can get a nice EF for $190? At the same time, look at a price guide for the 1921 Peace dollar. Gray Sheet is $110 for VG and $135 for AU. Why would anybody buy a VG example for only $20 less? At MS63 it jumps to $450. I would say your average collector would be most inclined to look for an AU example. When the 1921 PD jumps in price, I'm willing to bet AU is one of the grades that receives a +. Obviously availability at given grades also plays a part. There are ridiculous price jumps at certain grades, usually MS, that I think have to do with population reports. If you read the below thread you'll see what I'm talking about. What I really like about the G-6 1922 plain is that it's relatively affordable in that grade, it's ridiculously expensive in high grades, and it's very hard to find a low grade example. Example of a crazy price jump https://goccf.com/t/17225&whichpage=1Edited by USArmyParatrooper
08/19/2007 1:46 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2443 Posts |
Right, some of the price jumps are crazy. Like the example of the Peace dollar, the 64 looked better than the 65 and I bet the 65 was sent in a few times in order to get that number. I think some people get way to serious in collecting and need to enjoy the hobby. But if I had millions of dollars to spend, and was collecting a set or just wanted to have "the best" it would probably become "buy the slab, not the coin". |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Posted - 08/15/2007 : 11:40:26 PM
What is a good price for both the 1909 and 1909s in each condition?
The Gray Sheet ask price is pretty accurate. You just have to pay attention in the MS grades whether they're referring to Red, Red-Brown, etc.
The BEST way to price any coin is to make a Heritage Auction account (it's free), and then look at recent closed auction prices. MAKE SURE you pay attention to eye appeal and which grader certified each coin. Factor in which grader (if any) certified the coin you're interested in, and then factor in the eye appeal of the coin. At this point you have a very accurate picture of what's a fair price.
Not really. The BEST way to price a coin is to go to a coin show. Any Auction price is usually inflated and there is seldom bargaining, comparing, etc. At a coin show you can see, check, ask, bargain, compare prices for any and all coins.
Now for that 1909S VDB of our USArmyParatrooper. At a coin show today in Itasca, Illinois I priced quite a few of those 09S VDB's. In MS-63, 64 and a -65 they all ran well over $5,000. One dealer had all 3 in those grades so easy to check. Of course those prices are negotiable. Another dealer had a few in AU for about $1,500 but if they were AU, I'm Superman. I couldn't find any in any grade for less than $1,000. Usually about 20 available at that show. With the big show coming up in Countryside in September, a lot more will be looming around. 1909, 09VDB, 09S, 09S/S have all jumped up in prices but many of the regualar 09's were far below $50 in any MS grades.
Not many 09S's were available though in any grade. I was paying particular attention due to this post. Like I said, the one shown here is well into the save for ever catagory. It would not be impossible to find another but just look at the prices I saw at todays coin show.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
OOppps. Forgot to answer this question. quote: I have 10 complete sets of Lincoln Cents. There is an 09S VDB in each and I have a few spares of that also. just carl: WOW! I don't even imagine ever getting one (and staying married ). How much would you estimate your lowest grade / least expensive one is worth? Just wondering (& dreaming) ? Many are from change. Most of my coins are from change. My worst one is probably AU-50ish or so. Many 14D's, 22 plains, etc all from change. My biggest purchase was 10-1916D Mercury dimes for $1.50 each. All sounds impossible dosen't it. The thing is most from change were from the 1940's and 1950's. I started collecting in 1943. Coins like the ones today listed as KEY, RARE, SCARCE, etc were all in change at one time and I was there. Now just imagine all your change in Dimes for instance was Mercury dimes, many Liberty heads and even an occational Sitting Liberty. No one liked those brand new things called Roosevelt dimes. Although most quarters were now those Washington ones, lots of Standing Liberty and Liberty Head's still in change. Walking Liberty Haves was all there was in Halves and Silver Dollars were common. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1283 Posts |
quote:
The BEST way to price a coin is to go to a coin show.
I respectfully disagree. Here is one for sale on ebay, an MS-64 FULL RED and the BIN price is just $3400. I've only been to one show, so you have a lot more experience with that than I do. But if what you're saying is typical then I think it's an expensive way to go. http://cgi.ebay.com/1909-S-VDB-PCGS...ty_W0QQitemZ220141520409QQihZ012QQcategoryZ39456QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I still think the BEST way to price coins is to check closed heritage auction prices. That is truly what the market will bear. Plus you can just jump online anywhere at anytime and check prices on a coin. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1283 Posts |
quote:
Many 14D's, 22 plains, etc all from change.
 OMG I wish I could say the same. Edited by USArmyParatrooper
08/19/2007 7:52 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I respectfully disagree. Here is one for sale on ebay, an MS-64 FULL RED and the BIN price is just $3400. I've only been to one show, so you have a lot more experience with that than I do. But if what you're saying is typical then I think it's an expensive way to go. http://cgi.ebay.com/1909-S-VDB-PCGS...cmdZViewItemI still think the BEST way to price coins is to check closed heritage auction prices. That is truly what the market will bear. Plus you can just jump online anywhere at anytime and check prices on a coin. Try to remember what you see may not be what you think via the internet. At that price range, I'd like to see what I am getting in reality, not a possibly touched up photo, possibly a difficult return, possibly nothing like what you think. Way, way to many rip offs via the internet. At a coin show you can see the real thing, no shipping and handling where things could get damaged, lost, etc. The market is what the market is and a fairly large coin show will allow you to see what you could sell or buy and for what price. Heritage Auctions are OK but try to resell what you just bought for a profit. I'll stick to coin shows especially since we have so many around here. |
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Posted 08/14/2007 1:32 pm
