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 Replies: 17 / Views: 2,474 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4416 Posts |
Welcome to the CCF, Heather ... You'll receive lots of good advice and encouragement here! Pick up a copy of the so-called " RedBook" a.k.a. Guide Book of U.S. "Coins" at a local coin shop or book store. It'll give you the basics like better dates, mintmarks and grades. You might also buy a package of "flips" in which to insert some better coins, better dates and higher grades. You'll likely progress best if you sort first by year, then by mintmark and lastly by grade. Here's hoping that you strile gold in all that silver! |
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New Member
 United States
4 Posts |
Thank you so much for taking time to respond, I appreciate it! I had a chance to check out the links you both provided and they were so helpful. I wasn't going to clean them, but thanks for the heads up. :) I already have the coins sorted by year, so now I will be able to use the pcgs site to grade the coins and the numismedia to approximate a value.
In your opinion, at what value does it makes financial sense to have the coin professionally graded? I'm sure it makes it easier to sell, but I'm not sure how much that service costs.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1370 Posts |
My rule of thumb as far as professional grading is concerned is $200 and up. PCGS requires a membership to submit coins as does NGC....by the time all fees and postage are calculated it's around $40 a coin...roughly. It also depends on how many coins you're submitting at once. ANACS is a good third option, no membership fees and lower cost per coin to grade....but ANACS coins tend to not bring the premium that NGC and PCGS get.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4692 Posts |
Many dealers will send coins into the TPGs on your behalf, so membership is not a requirement. They will want their actual expenses paid by you (shipping and grading fee). The current market places a premium on PCGS graded coins.
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Valued Member
United States
156 Posts |
The mercs that would be worth grading professionally are few and far between.
Like a 1916D, both 1921s in higher grades, maybe a 26S in the higher grades or the over stamps. Maybe the earlier coins in MS and above condition.
The later mercs sell for bullion or just above it in circulated condition typically.
I know less about Barber's, but the typical barber is in less than VG condition, and unless it is a rare date, they are certainly not valuable enough to get graded professionally in worn condition. Although really nice conditioned coins from that era are always valuable.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7375 Posts |
That's a wonderful problem to have. Enjoy the process. There's at least $750 in melt silver value there, and a lot of us would pay $2 a piece for an average mercury or Barber dime, plus you might find a few nice ones in the pile. We'd all like to be in your shoes. |
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New Member
United States
4 Posts |
Thanks for the input! So far it's looking like we don't have anything rare but it's still fun learning. The ones I'm finding that are worth more than melt value are in the $5-10 range
We have been given an amazing gift and I'm embracing the opportunity to learn something new. My father-in-law gave it to us figuring the silver value, but we would like to make sure we're making the best decisions and not overlooking anything.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8517 Posts |
Sounds like your father in law was hoarding junk silver. Still fun to go through, you never know.
Oregon coin geek.....*** GO BEAVS ! ! ! ***
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4416 Posts |
You should separate all the 1942 P+D's. Study pics of the two overdates, 1942/41, from those mints and see if you can find one or more. Those are often overlooked and worth a few hundred each or more.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7840 Posts |
Looking forward to some pictures!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4337 Posts |
  but...  Google search images for 1942/1 overdate so you know what you're looking for |
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New Member
United States
4 Posts |
Yes, I think he thought it was junk silver but he has no coin knowledge either so I figured it wouldn't hurt to go through it all and see. There was a Seated Liberty dime from 1852, its in rough shape but I still think it's neat - even if it's not worth a fortune. :) I'm fairly sure I won't be finding anything of significant value but maybe I'll find some more cool coins. There are a good number of 1942 so I will definitely look up the overdates and see if we have any. |
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Valued Member
United States
156 Posts |
Well here is to hoping that you have found a new interest. :)
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote:
The later mercs sell for bullion or just above it in circulated condition typically. Far from true. With the Mercury dimes there are some really valuable ones that most ignor. For example the 1945. One of those with FULL BANDS on the reverse could go for anywhere from $25 to $45 thousand dollars. As noted you have to really watch for the 42/41 and 42D/41. The D is really a tuff one to spot. And too there are several large and small Mint marks being found. Mostly the 45 Micro S is the most popular but mostly due to no one knowing how many of the others there are. Many of the even really so called common dates are and can be expensive or valuable pending the Full Steel Bands on the reverse. Such FSB coins are in a separate valuable pricing. And although the 31D is not valued highly, it should be noted that it is the 4th lowest minted Merc dime. I suggest you look into purchasing a copy of the Red Book by Whitman Publishing for a sort of over view of all your coins. |
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Valued Member
United States
156 Posts |
Quote:Far from true. With the Mercury dimes there are some really valuable ones that most ignor. For example the 1945. One of those with FULL BANDS I did say 'circulated'. And I dont think it is possible to have a FB designation on a circulated merc. |
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Replies: 17 / Views: 2,474 |
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Posted 07/24/2014 11:51 am
