Best All-In-One Microscope W/Camera Or Just Camera?

You're faced with the double task of learning both camera setup and Zoom Browser to run it from the computer simultaneously. To run from the computer, hook the camera up via USB and turn the camera on first, set to full Manual. It'll pop up a dialogue letting you know the camera is found and chances are Zoom Browser will be one of the choices for "Open With."

Baseline settings: ISO400 (others will say use lower ISO, I prefer the faster exposures it allows), Spot metering, f/8 wherever aperture is adjusted, two Jansjos at 10 and 2 and expose 1/250 for lustrous silver, 1/150 for lustrous copper or nickel and 1/100 or maybe slower for circulated copper. Those will get you into the neighborhood.

When running from Zoom Browser with a lens that can't communicate its' aperture setting to the camera, it will default to displaying the narrowest aperture onscreen, making the image far darker onscreen than it will be on the sensor. I set ISO at 1600 to focus, and then back down to shoot the actual shot.

This seems like a hassle, but it isn't. It happens as fast as you can click your mouse, and very soon you're going to look at a coin and know what exposure to set. A difficult coin will take you three tries for exposure. In other words, fifteen seconds. You'll only be changing the exposure; aperture and ISO will be static.

At this point, play with stuff, learn, and ask questions as you go. You're learning a complex new skill, and better to do that hands-on.

I had an AC adapter fail on me and burn out a nice Nikon camera, so ever since I have used batteries exclusively. I keep one in the charger while I use the other.

Batteries are good for 300-400 shots outdoors; one will do you amply for your most intensive session even using Live View. You can turn the camera's LCD off completely to help if you want.

For the record, I normally use an AC adaptor. I'm rethinking in view of Ray's story.

Come down in ISO. At 800 the additional noise will be slight, but we're pixel-peepers and it might show up in 100% crops. 400 is as high as you should shoot unless absolutely necessary - consider more light before being forced to use 800 or 1600. I define "forced" as having to use exposures slower than 1/40 to get it right. Yes, slower exposures are still within your capability but it's a sign you're pushing unnecessarily. Add a little more light and give the sensor more flexibility.

At ISO400 you'll be at about 1/100 to duplicate this shot, at ISO200, probably 1/60.

See why we walk a fine line between diffusion and contrast now? You picked a toughie in your subject, too - Zlincolns are as bright as any silver.

Guessing you're up and running from the computer? Do you know you can focus zoomed to 1:1 on the screen and Maximize it? The image will be so big, focus will be the last of your problems.

IMO, since you should have a rock-stable setup there, there is no reason not to go with ISO 100. The slow shutter speed should not hurt you, and the lower noise gives you more headroom to work with for processing.

Lose everything which reflects white in your pic of the rig. You're reflecting a lot of surface light back into the lens which costs contrast. I shoot on an old black t-shirt laid out flat, far larger than the lens, with a second one to block monitor light since the rig is only 3' from the computer.

Heck, I shoot without my glasses, in case they reflect something. Only let the light you intend hit the coin. Nothing else.

OK, that's pretty cool.

Ray's gonna have a heart attack () but my Jansjo diffuser of choice is either one or two layers of Kleenex taped over the bulb.