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 Replies: 16 / Views: 3,705 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
I think you've got something there.
I assume the SYKKEL-VM'93 is a proof.
If so, it is VERY well done; proofs are notoriously hard to image correctly.
I'd be interested to see what you can do with a rainbow toned coin.
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Valued Member
 Norway
148 Posts |
The 1880 CC is RAW, but might come from a GSA back in the days.
Sykkel, is indeed a proof. I will rummage trough my coins, and see if I can find a good toner.
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Valued Member
Norway
148 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2843 Posts |
Awesome- can you show a photo of your setup with a small explanation.
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Valued Member
United States
441 Posts |
This.  |
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Valued Member
Norway
148 Posts |
oh, humm.. Well, I can see what I can do.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Yes, very nice lighting effect. Show us how you did it!
Can you also put a mirror where your coin is placed and snap a shot to show the light pattern?
Edited by rmpsrpms
08/26/2016 3:53 pm
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Valued Member
Norway
148 Posts |
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Valued Member
Norway
148 Posts |
So I think, this is an improved ringlight, with extra directional lighting.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Very nice aleroe! I like how you shot the coin in two different areas of the reflected light pattern to show the differences. I guess the extra lights are too low to show in the reflection? Do you have an issue with focus on the top/bottom of the coin due to the tilt?
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Valued Member
United States
441 Posts |
What is the white board around the lens hood made of and how do you keep it up there?
If you have the time, I would also like to see some pics of some non-proof, but extremely lusterous, copper coins. This area gives me the biggest headaches  EDIT: From the looks of the pics here, you're capturing larger size coins, so your working distance from the coin is greater. If you do something that is US dime or cent size, and have to lower the camera to focus, what does that do to your lighting scheme? I'm using a Canon 100mm macro as well. In order to get a US cent framed properly and in focus, the distance from the end of the lens to the cent on stage is ~165mm.
Edited by andywoj00
08/27/2016 7:22 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2403 Posts |
Love the photos. Got an editing question for ya.
How did you get the white background behind the coin?
I use Canons DPP and when I crop it, it puts up a black background. I cant figure out how to change it.
Edited by MontCollector
08/27/2016 6:52 pm
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Valued Member
United States
441 Posts |
aleroe, I really really really dig the results you've shown for each of these coins. I believe the real key to this is the longer focal length, too. I have a 100mm Canon macro, but I have not been able to use it because my copy stand is too small. Thank you for reminding me that I wanted to do this, I am going to make a now copy stand happen, now!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2843 Posts |
Thank you for showing that.
don't be self conscious about how the rig looks- the results say it all.
Congrats.
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Valued Member
United States
130 Posts |
Great results! I'm curious how this handles slabbed coins? I'm not sure if you have any (some people are very anti-slab, I know!), but if you have a chance I'd love to see the result of you don't mind.  |
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Posted 08/26/2016 08:30 am
