Is The Roosevelt Dime The Only Coin With No Key Date Date?

Would that apply to the 1970 d with a 1968 proof reverse!


Edit: actually, the 1968 proof reverse has been on the1969, 1970p, and 1970d

Forgot about that one!

How about the 1996-W...

I hopped right over that frog's comment.

When I was a kid, everyone knew the 1973-S silver proof was the key date.

I've always considered the 1949-S and the three coins from 1955 as they key dates when it comes to silver Roosys. Some also consider the 1950-S a key date.

In most of the price guides I look at, the only coins which seem to usually have a premium over melt in circulated grades are the following: 1949, 1949-D, 1949-S, 1950, 1950-S, 1951-S, 1952-S, 1955, 1955-D, 1955-S, and 1958.

When I have the above coins in stock, I have no problem selling them well over melt on ebay.

In terms of modern coins, it is pretty hard to define keys... the 1996-W wasn't intended for circulation, but some call it a key. The 1982 no mint mark is a mint error, but findable in circulation with a lot of work, I would assume. Most people would probably consider their circulation sets complete without those two issues. The lowest mintage modern dimes are the pair from 2009, and they're pretty hard to find in circulation as most of us know. Rolls of both dates go for quite a premium in all grades on ebay.

All,

I am finishing up a full Roosevelt collection myself, so I have some real world experience with this.
It is a fun set, since the look nice, 1964 and earlier are "real silver", and they are also readily available.
None are significantly rare or expensive.

The most expensive so far have been:

Proofs: - 1950 Proof, 1951 Proof, 1952 Proof, 1953 Proof (they run from about $30 up to about $50 for "unslabbed" ones in nice condition - so none are 'crazy expensive' but getting these 4 proofs does take a bit of cash).

Uncirculated in MS condition: 1996-W ($12), 1951S ($15), 1950S ($20), 1949S ($40), 1949 ($15), 1949D ($10)

Now, if you want to try to find them all in very high-level MS with "full steps", that could bump up the price significantly. And if you want to buy them 'slabbed', then that would bump the prices even higher. And if you want to try to find all "Cameo Proofs", that will make it even more expensive and harder...

I like the bright and white, although some people love them multi-colored toned. Just personal preference.

Also, I stop my collections at 2001 as a "stop point" so I can complete a set, and also since the volume of coins made in 2001+ is so huge, that it is doubtful any will ever be worth more then "spend".

But a Rosie collection from 2001 to 1946 is fun since they are readily available, have some real silver, and don't take up a huge amount of room or a big bite from you wallet.

After I complete my raw, Roosie set, I plan to do a "slabbed set" of only the Proofs in high grades and strong cameo. That will be another way to go at the whole set all over!

Hope this helps,

Regards,

Michael

For me the best way to learn a series .. is to try and put a set together. That way you figure out which coins are harder
to find and which ones cost more.

Doing a Roosevelt set in BU .. the early coins when nice
will cost much more than the late 50's and 60's.