How To Tell The Difference Between Canadian Specimen Strikes And Proof-Like Strikes?

DMB, for the PL coins, I did just what you suggested. I purchased only pennies cut from plastic wrap sets. So, for those issues I know they are all PL. For SP coins I purchased a bulk lot with coins labelled Proof and SP in flips from 1973 to 2005. The Proof coins are correctly labeled and dated from 1981 to 2005, so I am hoping the SP coins are also correctly labelled, but I do not know for sure. They start in 1973 and run to 1980, plus I got a bonus 2011 SP in the lot with the striated fields. For 1971 and 1972 I purchased double penny SP sets, so I plucked those pennies out myself. I was trying to avoid doing the same for the rest because I only paid 50 cents per coin in the lot, and in theory already have them. The problem I am having is that I have been told conflicting information over and over about diagnostics. Some say better strikes and thicker edges with block-like sharp letters on SP pennies. Which some of my labelled SP pennies do have on them, but others look very similar to the PL coins. Also, some of the PL coins cut from plastic look that way with harp block like edges and wide rims. I am not seeing the difference, so the idea they are the same and not different seems to match what I am seeing. For instance the 1971 and 1972, I plucked out myself, are not any different from the PL set pennies except they are toned more from being exposed to the air and not protected in plastic wrap. They have a more orange color as seen on all the SP labelled PCGS SP pennies. However, I cannot see any other differences. It might be some years true PL and SP coins were not minted, so the one's I am looking at might be the same. Also, if mixing occurred at the Mint, then I might have only PL coins for those dates. My 1967's were plucked from sets. I cannot see any difference from the SP and the PL. However, I am not always the best at seeing the differences. I need a little help sometimes. I attribute Large Cents using mostly photos, but sometimes for certain varieties I need a reference. Often there is some kind of minor difference that the Attribution guide points out such as a broken 5 in the curl of lady Liberty or a die break running from E to D in the word UNITED on the reverse side. Obviously, if we are talking about the same die being used to mint PL, SP, and MS pennies, then there would be no differences of that nature. But, even the process causes differences. We can clearly see that a coin is MS or PR because of how they were minted, even if the same dies were used to mint both. PL and SP do not seem to me to have clear differences you can see, so I was hoping they might have some differences you can find, if you know what to look for on the coins. PCGS and the other grading companies seem to have some way of telling if a coin is PL or SP. I just want to know how they know which is which. Sometimes coins are sent to them that are not in their original packaging, and no information is given or perhaps the person sending the coin wants it to be SP, so they lie. Prices for SP coins do tend to be higher. Some suggested quality of the strike, but I have some really nice PL pennies that could be labelled SP based on strong strike and high quality alone. I know they are not because I cut them out of the plastic wrap. There is also the issue of people swapping out SP coins for PL coins. If I buy the 1970 SP set, I have to pay $450 for it. The set looks to be SP, but it could just be PL coins in it. Two people reported buying that set, sending it off to be graded, and getting the coins back marked PL and not SP. If the 1970 PL and 1970 SP are in fact not different, then I do not need to waste money and time trying to buy that set to get the SP penny out of it, and if they are different, then I need to know how, so I do not buy a VIP set case with cheap PL coins in it. Some of the other dates in SP are said to be extremely rare, 1964 is an example. But, is it actually the set that is rare and not the penny in the set because they coins are actually PL? Charlton is saying that those coins in that set are actually just regular PL strikes even if they are coming from VIP SP sets. Now it could be that the information in a 15 year old book is incorrect, so there is a possibility that I could find a 1964 SP penny at a coin show in a coin flip marked Proof or even PL that is actually SP and knowing how to tell the differences between the PL and SP would help me find that coin and pay $1 for it instead of $60 (price guide) or more. Also, if I pay someone full price for a 1964 SP, how do I know it is SP and not PL without buying it slabbed or sending it in after I paid? And even if it is slabbed, did PCGS get it right or are they just as confused as I am right now? People have posted 1964 pennies in PCGS holders marked SP, but to tell you the truth, I cannot see any difference between those "so called" SP pennies and a regular PL pennies other than maybe color. I just want to know exactly what to look for on the penny to tell the difference between the two strike types. And I want to know in what years there was a difference because Charlton, from fifteen years ago, said there was none for 1960's minted coins. Thanks.

Well, Here was the results.

pauliswilling very nice coins. they look very good slabbed. thank you so much for sharing.

so.. paul is willing , thanks for the updates,, I quess there were no specimen coins in there as you suggested earlier, and you also said no coins were ever touched, so I would suppose you were wrong on both accounts,,,as the 1948 dollar is details/ cleaned..

that's why we are a learning and teaching forum, because none of us are right 100% of the time..

I am number 16 on the NGC site for the nicest Franklin half set as well. Unfortunately, when you have Coins graded by both NGC and PCGS NGC doesn't recognize PCGS graded Coins in registry sets. If they did I would probably be in the top 5. Have another 109 out right now being graded only because they had a special for $8 dollars a Coin.

Apparently you can't offer to sell Coins on this Coin collecting site either.

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Gee! I wonder CCF Who your sponsors are? Could one of them be a place I sold on for 9 years and was a powerseller since Day one selling there? No negative feedback out of 2700 transactions? Was great up until The last month. Had 2 People claim their account was hacked and already sent the Coins out. Waited 3 months through PayPal and they Hit me with a chargeback for 2 People committing FRAUD! Then a week later a guy bought my Standing Liberty quarter set ( specifically stated no refunds mainly from All of the recent fraud on ebay and mind you as I said..9 years powerseller and this guy buy's my Standing Liberty quarter set and after 2 weeks decided he wants to return the set ( no refunds from me specifically stated remember!) Did that for a reason from all the recent fraud. So ebay decides in the buyers favor and what kind of shape do you think my Standing quarter set was in when I got it back? Needless to say I'm not a seller on ebay anymore after last month and I believe they are still trying to get their money They refunded back to this guy who apparently thought its okay to buy something on the arm and if it doesn't sell, keep what he likes and return the rest!( You can bet this is my last post on This eBay/ crater supported site!

100 quality* posts and membership for 21 days are required to; post links to sales on external sites such as ebay or eCrater.

Thank you!