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Replies: 51 / Views: 8,418 |
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New Member
United States
37 Posts |
I've noticed some fairly scratched up coins in mint sets as well. Not like covered in scratches, but maybe one big ugly one here or there. Some actually look worse than the same coin I already had in my album from being found in circulation.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2271 Posts |
This is the reason I used to break up most sets; to spend the poor specimens. How ironic the keepers are the ones that are tarnished now.
Thank goodness I've soaked a few coins (just in case) over the years.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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Valued Member
United States
293 Posts |
With Mint Sets the 1947-1958 are worth the most. Most of time they are better left intact provided that all the coins have that original mint set tone to them. These original sets have a big demand out there especially the ones before 1955 when the San Francisco Mint closed. From 1959-1964 it is about a push. To cut these up it's best to find a set with one or two problem coins in so that you can buy the set for discount. Most sets from 1965 to date are worth more as individual coins than sets. A couple of notable exceptions are 2008 and 2012. If you have any of the Mint Souvenir Sets (the ones that you could only obtain by visiting the Denver or Philadelphia Mint's gift shop in that year) do not cut those especially 1982 and 1983. Those two years are subs for the Mint Sets which were not made that year and command a nice premium to what the coins would sell individually. Now 1971-1981 sets have the problem of the packaging breaking down leaving that green to white film on the coins that often appears spotted or splotchy. Two products will take that off: Coin Care and MS-70. I prefer MS-70 if I think there's a reasonable chance that the coin will be an MS-64 or MS-65 after I dunk it. Be sure and have a glove on your hand when you use this product. I've gotten great results on the 40% silver halves, quarters in the 70s and some of the nickels. The Clad Ikes, dimes, and cents I have less success with though usually that's because the coin really looks like MS-63 or less and with dimes you don't always have a nice enough strike on the coin. Another point on MS-70 - it is mainly for clad, silver and gold coins that are at least an AU-55 and preferably MS-63. DO NOT use it on a coin that is less than AU as you will have an unnatural look on the coin. On UNC copper keep in mind that it will not remove carbon spots. It will not make a Red/BROWN coin RED either. A final point on coins from 1965 and fowards Mint Sets. Unless it is some error or rare variety if any of the clad coins or cents have one of those scuff marks the ones that look like a bad filing job (especially on the eagle's breast on the quarters and halves and in Jefferson's hair on the nickels) put those in you change jar. As a dealer I give that stuff out as change and my customers don't have to waste their time looking through pocket change in my red boxes when they are after nice examples of modern dates.
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Valued Member
United States
293 Posts |
I should add one final point on Mint Set cut outs when using Coin Care or MS-70 on them. If the coins have beautiful attractive toning on them such as blue toned Jefferson nickels (especially from JFK's term), or golden toned quarters and halves from the late 1970s, or any rose or purple toned cent, DO NOT put Coin Care or MS-70 on them as it will take that toning off of them. Those coins you leave as is.
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Pillar of the Community
2223 Posts |
Quote: Two products will take that off: Coin Care and MS-70. I prefer MS-70 Interesting atchisonbj, thanks for sharing! I wonder if the larger 3rd party graders can, or do they, detect coin care, ms 70 or other product ? Do they use a sniffer or what? 
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: . I wonder if the larger 3rd party graders can, or do they, detect coin care, ms 70 or other product ? Do they use a sniffer or what? Ms70 is perfectly acceptable in the market and TPGs. It's a pretty weak product overall in all honesty, but it is great for getting haze off of coins. Some toning or dirty surface toning it can remove but for the most part it's not going to remove toning in the way dripping does. Copper it can give a blue hint to but clad or silver or gold to remove some mint haze type stuff it does a fine job.
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Pillar of the Community
2223 Posts |
 Got it, thanks basebal21
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Valued Member
United States
318 Posts |
Always learning. I just looked up MS70. I had to google "MS70 Coin Cleaner" to find it. Seems reasonably priced at around $7 for 8oz. I've been opening Mint sets and yes, I see a lot of haze across these coins that acetone isn't taking off.
I know following directions on the bottle is just a baseline so I need to ask... how long do you leave your coins in the cleaner? How long before you through away the MS70 you've been using? I guess I need to read up on the cautions as well. For example, acetone is almost like gasoline. It will flame up fast if you have an open jar near a spark -- very dangerous stuff.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: . How long before you through away the MS70 you've been using? I guess I need to read up on the cautions as well. For example, acetone is almost like gasoline. It will flame up fast if you have an open jar near a spark -- very dangerous stuff. For safety I'd keep it away from everything, ingesting it would not be good at all. Clean all the surfaces thoroughly afterwards to be safe. I don't believe it is as flammable as acetone but definitely have good ventilation. As far as use I wouldn't ever recycle it but maybe you can I'm not sure. For haze roll a qtip soaked in it over it or something like that, I've never used it as a purely soaking method. Maybe you can I'm not sure and by no means an expert with it but I do know that done right it's perfectly acceptable and have never seen it actually destroy a coin like dip can, but you may not always like what it reveals.
Edited by basebal21 07/01/2018 12:31 am
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Valued Member
United States
50 Posts |
Hi-Ho! Krazy Kermit here!
Personally I have heard that taking them part de-values them in the fact of the more people that do it less complete ones there are.
Rising the price in complete Mint sets and virtually decreasing the value of something you may have once had.
Now again just something I've heard not speaking from experience.
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Valued Member
United States
318 Posts |
Here is a link to PCGS article on destruction of mint sets which is an interesting read. From my personal experience, 80% of what I'm finding inside these mint sets that I recently cut up are horrible and wouldn't grade much much better than MS64. I keep reminding myself that the mint bagged and shipped these coins to a location where packaging was done. Before these coins actually made it into a mint set, they had a rough life in shipping. https://www.PCGS.com/news/Destructi...f-Mint-Sets/
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: . Personally I have heard that taking them part de-values them in the fact of the more people that do it less complete ones there are.
Rising the price in complete Mint sets and virtually decreasing the value of something you may have once had. With very few exceptions it's actually the opposite. Like mike posted most of the coins still in a lot of mint sets aren't that great. Leaving a very nice coin or an exceptional coin in a mint set with a bunch of subpar coins generally drags the value of the really nice coin down.
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Valued Member
United States
50 Posts |
Thanks mikem007 & basebal21!
So for someone starting out like me, how would you guys recommend me buying something along the lines of a 1959 Cent. Is it better to find a shop selling it BU or find someone selling them in a cut up Mint set still?
Edited by Krazy Kermit 07/03/2018 9:48 pm
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Valued Member
United States
318 Posts |
Any mint set pre 1965 starts to get too expensive to pluck a single 1959 cent. If you want a 1959 BU cent, have a little fun in the search and look on the Internet for "BU coin rolls" and you'll find you can purchase a 1959 BU roll for around $6. For example http://www.villagecoin.com/c/LINRLS2.html. You'll probably wind up paying a few dollars for a single 1959 cent that somebody else found so change that into something you found. A simple google search will get you dozens of small businesses selling coin rolls. And there is a whole coin roll section on this CC website with lots of suggestions. Get yourself a nice magnifying glass and it will open up your eyes to saving only the best coins in that roll. And, nearly all of the "error" coins I found came from coin rolls so be on the lookout.
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Valued Member
United States
50 Posts |
Thanks for the advice mikem007!
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Replies: 51 / Views: 8,418 |