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Replies: 70 / Views: 8,067 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7194 Posts |
I like how this one turned out depicting the toning on the proof coin. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
8517 Posts |
Man oh man, what a great reverse on the 1904 Filipinas 5 centavos !
Oregon coin geek.....*** GO BEAVS ! ! ! ***
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
I have half a roll of toilet paper stuffed into my mouth to stop the salivation. You don't see this on a 1921 very often: 
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Pillar of the Community
 921 Posts |
It may be too late for a few pics already posted, but if remembered, please try to include what camera/lens & settings were used to attain these "favorite pics"...if possible :)
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Pillar of the Community
United States
615 Posts |
Now Dave's just showing off. Not fair...
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Everything you've seen so far from me was done with one generation or another of Canon Rebel dSLR mounting a Canon 100mm Macro lens. If I post anything shot with the APO Rodagon-D 75mm, I'll mention it. You can generally assume with the 100mm, I will be at f/8, ISO 100-200 and around 1/125 or faster.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
627 Posts |
All of my shots were made with a Canon T2i, APO Rodagon-D 75mm f/4 lens mounted to a Pentax dovetail rail autobellows. Images are shot at between f/5.6-8 depending on the size of the coin, ISO 100, and after custom set white balance to an 18% gray card. Lighting is with 3 LED Jansjo lamps, with my own best attempt at replicating Ray's cone-type diffusers. 
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Mine were with the 75ARD1 on bellows, Jansjos, and either Nikon D7000 (the 1904 5 Centavo) or more recently the T2i (43D Steel Cent)...Ray
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4132 Posts |
My setup is almost the same as BRG's. Canon T3i (none of the differences between the T3i and T2i would affect image quality), same lens and bellows. Almost always shot at f/5.6, ISO 100, white balance set by gray card. Lighting is Jansjo lamps with my take on smile directors (covered in another thread). Usually I have two, at 10:30 and 1:30, but lately I've taken to having a third at 7:30 or occasionally 4:30 (sometimes both). Usually that lamp is further from the diffusor and therefore providing a bit less light, but it's enough to highlight some areas near the top of the coin that would otherwise be shadowed if the face is concave. One of my Jansjos has a more yellow cast than the others, which was annoying at first, but now I'm starting to like the effect (you can see it on my shot of the steel cent, and this Buffalo): 1924 Buffalo Nickel by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr It's not an uncommon thing to have two different light colors in natural lighting situations (e.g. sunlight plus bluer sky-light or warm interior lights plus window-light), so it looks pretty nice and natural most of the time. On a few silver coins the effect is less nice, so I try to use the three Jansjos that are better matched.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
615 Posts |
I stand corrected, I now feel this is my best shot. Still tweaking with settings, I think I'm improving :)  That coin just photographed really well, that's exactly how it looks in hand.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1080 Posts |
This photo came out pretty good, but it's a coin you don't get to see everyday!! 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
615 Posts |
Do. Want.
This has turned into an incredibly dangerous thread. Dangerous indeed. :)
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Here is one of my favorite closeups: 
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Is that the Printing-Nikkor?
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Replies: 70 / Views: 8,067 |