Standing Liberty Popularity Question.

Not sure what you mean. I've now got 6 completed sets of Walking Liberty halves. At coin chows they are all over the place in any grade imaginable. I've seen dealers with virtually hundreds of them and only a few of the Standing Liberty quarters.

I could really get long winded on this coin series as it is the only one I am collecting and has been for several years.
That said I am still a novice.A few mistakes have been made and am still learning.My knowledge only covers the bear basics,they redesigned in 1917 to cover the chest and in 1925 to change the date area because of wear.The rest is just my obsevation from looking at coins.
The devil is in the detail.For me it's about the head,shield and date.I do not search for FH unless it is a date and grade I think I can afford.
For example look at Joe2007 1929 I can't tell from picture if it is a full head,but it looks fairly decently struck.Then look at the shield in the 7 to 8 0'clock position.It is hard to find some of these coins with a decent head,doesn't have to be FH,and shield detail that isn't so weak in this area that it is distracting.From the picture,even oih82w8 1917 TypeII appears a little weak in this area on the shield.Though with this coin you wouldn't even notice.
This 1925 in AU58FH is similar to 1917 TypeII,although the head and shield detail is better on the typeII.Notice weak shield detail.

My 1929 in MS64 is similar to oih82w8,but his head detail appears better and my shield detail is a little better,but still weak.Lousy photo,but you get the idea.I was experimenting with some lenses when I took this,but only photo available at time of post.

The thing with collecting circulated examples is you get to lower your expectations and save on the pocket, especially with the keys.
My 1921 VF35,another lousy photo taken with older camera.I am very satisfied with this coin in this grade because the date is worn but nearly all there.Better looking in hand and your eye isn't instantly distracted by the head and shield because of the grade.

The 1919 S below I really like,though the head is a little flat,still decent.Shield detail is nearly all there but just a little weak in the 7 to 8 area,mostly rivets and a good date.Blur is on slab.


regards
coffeecup57

Thanks for the info coffeecup57. I collect WLH's. The first place I look is the thumb/knuckle. Then the head and eagles feathers. I try to stick to really good strikes.

With SLQ's I will use your info and focus in on the shield, rivets and Head. I tend to like better strike over higher MS in most cases.

Here's a few of mine:

I hope for your sake the results are better than mine.......I have seen gorgeous coins graded so-so and coins with terrible eye appeal graded 65-66. Grading is so darn subjective.

westerneye,
" I don't care what the "Graysheet" says a given coin should buy or sell for. The coin will stand on its own merits and if it has super eye appeal, nice for the grade and is tough it will come out of the woodwork if enough money changes hands. "

AMEN!
If the coins do not exist in large numbers, then no price guide can be used as 'hard and fast."
This is where knowledge of a particular series is SO important. Even higher circulated grades can be very scarce. Throw the price guide out if you find an eye pleasing gem of a year and mint which does not appear on the market often.

Took a little longer than I thought to get these pics...









I have a good number more in 2x2s. These were just my favorites of what I have.

My favorite in the book is the 18D. She is blue and pink/purple toned and beautiful. Her and several others you see were part of a collection that was owned by a smoker. All the coins in his collection got some wicked toning over the years. Anyway, as you will see in the close ups, her problem is she suffered at the hands of a slasher. Breaks my heart. The second pic kind of shows the toning.