Best All-In-One Microscope W/Camera Or Just Camera?

I'd suggest getting two sets of the extension tubes for lots of flexibility.

It's with a Canon T3i and Rodenstock Apo-Rodagon-D 75mm 1:1, although at that magnification a microscope objective would perform better (I just didn't have one yet at the time). It's a focus stack of several images.

The bellows does the same thing as the extensions, increasing magnification by moving the lens farther from the sensor. Unlike tubes, a bellows lets you vary magnification infinitely. They're far preferable to extension tubes.

Keep in mind, though, the bellows has a minimum collapsed dimension which will have a bearing on the minimum magnification you can use. Doesn't get in the way with lenses shorter than 100mm. As for adapters, the bellows itself will determine them. Fotodiox is the high-quality maker but Amazon and ebay should offer cheaper examples. Ray will know better than I which mounts your bellows uses; I've little Nikon experience.

This is the bellow that my sister gave me that she bought off ebay. She said it wouldn't work for her setup so she bought another. I'm still waiting on the 2 parts for the other setup that you recommended. Just figured if the bellows would work as well then I would order the adapters to have on hand.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/14110934463...RK:MEBIDX:IT

The box just has a sticker that says Nikon Focusing Attachment, no paperwork with it. The bellow itself doesn't have anything stamped on it that I can find.

Ok,,,not a Canon then. Going to have to order adapters or connectors. Its smaller than my Canon.

You're faced with the double task of learning both camera setup and Zoom Browser to run it from the computer simultaneously. To run from the computer, hook the camera up via USB and turn the camera on first, set to full Manual. It'll pop up a dialogue letting you know the camera is found and chances are Zoom Browser will be one of the choices for "Open With."

Baseline settings: ISO400 (others will say use lower ISO, I prefer the faster exposures it allows), Spot metering, f/8 wherever aperture is adjusted, two Jansjos at 10 and 2 and expose 1/250 for lustrous silver, 1/150 for lustrous copper or nickel and 1/100 or maybe slower for circulated copper. Those will get you into the neighborhood.

When running from Zoom Browser with a lens that can't communicate its' aperture setting to the camera, it will default to displaying the narrowest aperture onscreen, making the image far darker onscreen than it will be on the sensor. I set ISO at 1600 to focus, and then back down to shoot the actual shot.

This seems like a hassle, but it isn't. It happens as fast as you can click your mouse, and very soon you're going to look at a coin and know what exposure to set. A difficult coin will take you three tries for exposure. In other words, fifteen seconds. You'll only be changing the exposure; aperture and ISO will be static.

At this point, play with stuff, learn, and ask questions as you go. You're learning a complex new skill, and better to do that hands-on.