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Author	Replies: 5 / Views: 827
Grumell New Member United States 9 Posts	Posted 04/22/2017 8:35 pm Hi All, I'm sure there is no easy answer to my question, but will try anyways. When searching older coins that have years of wear is there any advice/ trick on determining double dies from extensive wear. I see many posts on widening? Is this a way to determine doubling verses normal wear on older coins? I remember years ago I went through a marble collecting phase and while just starting I had many problems detecting an oxblood marble. It was not until someone explained to look for something that looked like nail polish painted on the marble before I actually found one and had that Eureka moment. Can anyone remember that Eureka moment that helped them with roll searching double dies when new to the hobby that may help me? I get the slap in the face examples, but still having those issue with the more difficult varieties and would hate to throw something back that may fit my building collection...or am I over thinking things and should just throw back anything that is not obvious? Report this Post to the Staff

RoyCoinBoy Pillar of the Community United States 1609 Posts	Posted 04/22/2017 9:02 pm It depends on how worn you're talking. Under F12, most of the "thickening" is likely caused from wear and double dies are very difficult to spot. Report this Post to the Staff
CoinCents Pillar of the Community United States 3656 Posts	Posted 04/22/2017 9:30 pm coop has some great education posts here on the forum and I find them extremely useful. On the older wheat cents - Reverse - these are my best to spot because the dot in between the EPU are elongated inside of round. now that being said there are other DDR's are true Doubled Dies without this elongated dot - I just can't seem to find any of those. On the Obverse I have only been able to find them on the New coins - so I am no help to you there. I know you were looking for the pro's to chime in but I thought I would pass along my experience to you as well. I will write again with the links to coops edu posts Edited by CoinCents 04/22/2017 9:41 pm Report this Post to the Staff
Crazyb0 Rest in Peace 10197 Posts	Posted 04/22/2017 9:53 pm Grummel! What's been said is quite right. Condition of coins does hinder the total attributive factors but on some coins there remains enough of the original "shape of a doubled letter to tell. As in this on a Walker reverse, the doubling appears as a notch above L and you while all other letters are smashed and wide appearing. Sometimes there are other markers on a coin that may remain like die cracks or die chips that can be matched to a suspect "smashed" detail. Edited by Crazyb0 04/22/2017 9:54 pm Report this Post to the Staff
stoneman227 Pillar of the Community United States 2376 Posts	Posted 04/22/2017 9:54 pm You can start by separating the coins you search by date before even starting to look for varieties. Once you have a a pile of a certain date go to all the usual sites and study the known varieties for it . By looking at one date at a time you will begin to recognize the ins and outs of that years design. When something unusual pops up set it in another pile for further study. That Eureka moment is going to be at different times for the different classes of doubled dies . Just save those study piles for your future improved eye Report this Post to the Staff
Druu Pillar of the Community United States 1000 Posts	Posted 04/23/2017 12:03 am Crazyb0 gave me an idea, so here's a comparison for you. Admittedly, the 1946 Walker is a punch you in the face DDR, but here's a comparison between a normal reverse and two DDRs in various grades. The AU50 was graded here on ccf as either XF45 or AU50. The coin I labeled as F15 is my guess -- I haven't gotten it out of the 2x2 for proper pictures and opinions here yet. Based on photograde, it's in the F12 to VF20 range. Report this Post to the Staff
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