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Green Copper Corrosion - Chemistry

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jbuck's Avatar
United States
189222 Posts
 Posted 07/07/2008  10:24 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Looking good!

I cannot wait to see this stuff for sale, so I can say "Yeah, I know the inventor; super smart, lives in a mansion on some beach now."
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scmoore61's Avatar
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487 Posts
 Posted 07/07/2008  10:32 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scmoore61 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Test 3 had very light verdigras over a lot of the coin. This one only took an hour. When the coin dried there was a light white haze where the verdigras was heaver. I was going to resoak but ran my finger over the haze and it went away. I may not have rinsed well enough after removal. After 3 test I really like this product. The patina on all of the coins after soaking is lighter but still very natural not at all like cleaned pennies I have seen.

Before
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/...61/test3.jpg

After
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/...st3after.jpg
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mycrob's Avatar
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 Posted 07/07/2008  1:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mycrob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Wow, those are amazing results!
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BadThad's Avatar
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 Posted 07/07/2008  6:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Test 3 had very light verdigras over a lot of the coin. This one only took an hour. When the coin dried there was a light white haze where the verdigras was heaver. I was going to resoak but ran my finger over the haze and it went away. I may not have rinsed well enough after removal. After 3 test I really like this product. The patina on all of the coins after soaking is lighter but still very natural not at all like cleaned pennies I have seen.


Sam, I thank you so much for confirming my results! You did an excellent job!
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chrsb's Avatar
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936 Posts
 Posted 07/07/2008  8:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chrsb to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Here are my results, the first 2 were soaked for 2 days with one liquid change out. I thought it was important to do a BU cent to show its affects on them. I also did a well worn one.
Before-
Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry
After
Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry
Before-
Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry
After-
Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry

This one I had problems with, I am thinking it was more a giant carbon spot and not verdigris, I soaked this baby for 5 days, changing out the liquid everyday.
Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry
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BadThad's Avatar
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 Posted 07/07/2008  10:53 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Chris, thanks for being an independent tester! I really appreciate the effort! I think you lost the luster on the 56 due to overexposure, 5 days is a long, long time for sitting in this fluid. It's really not designed for that, especially on an unoxidized BU coin.

You did I test I didn't even think of...on BU coins, very nice. I have one concern, it looks like the patina really changed, severely dulled. What are your in-hand observations? Was this a function of the lighting/cam or is it real? I'm going to drop a clean BU tonight to see first hand, great idea you had.

On the 1956D, again, a super choice in test coins. This product will not touch that carbon spot (as it is designed), however, I see it did remove the verdigris from the center of the spot.

The 1912D specimen was also an excellent choice. That coin also appeared to lighten, any comment on that?

Thanks again, Thad
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Edited by BadThad
07/08/2008 3:15 pm
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chrsb's Avatar
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 Posted 07/07/2008  11:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chrsb to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thad,

The pics are my fault, I forgot to write down the settings on the initial pics so it would be an apple to apple pic. In hand on the 53 the obverse kept it original luster with a hint of purple toning. The reverse was the same except the areas where there was verdigris is matte and it has a hint of purple toning also.

The 56-D lost all luster on the obverse, the reverse kept its luster.

I apologize on the mistake for pictures, if you would like I can do some more test specimens, the only thing is I am almost out of fluid. I think I might have been putting to much in the bottles, I had no way to measure the 8-10ML, I did 3-4 dropper fulls for each one.

The 12-D did lighten, it almost has a "rusted look" to it. The pics actually look a lot better than it does in hand.

I have the original pics of each side if you would like them in full size, the ones I posted were reduced in size and cropped. Other than that no post processing was done. Again I apologize on the pics, I should have kept better notes on them.
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arthrene's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2008  12:10 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add arthrene to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Have any tests been done on Zincolns? I went back through a few of the pictures and didn't find any/couldn't remember any. Might be worth a test though...
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ptb's Avatar
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128 Posts
 Posted 07/08/2008  01:06 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ptb to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Dumb Question(s) - looking for smart answer(s). Bradthad, would you or anyone else know if the verdigris would be more prone to reappear on the areas where the verdigris was previously removed from the coin.

And why is it that verdigris from the oxides that can form on copper over time as the copper reacts with substances like carbon dioxide and oxygen often only affect a small spot on the copper coin and not more of the coin?
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BadThad's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2008  3:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Chris - No problem, I appreciate what work you've already done. Nothing more needs to be done. Thanks for the additional info. On the 56BU, the coin was overexposed. The fluid was not meant to be used for that long, especially on a BU coin. Nonetheless, it was an excellent experiment!

arthrene - No, I have not tested it on a zinc coated cent. However, I did drop a 2008 MS coin into the fluid last night. It had no corrosion, but I wanted to see if the patina was effected. I'll post my results soon.

ptb - If a coin is stored properly, I don't see why verdigris would reform and scientifically, I don't see why a treated area would be more prone to forming verdigris. However, I do recommend reoxidation of the coin after treatment....i.e. just let it sit out exposed to air and sun for awhile. On a couple of my specimens I'm doing this and has "smoothed" the treated areas quite nicely.

As for the second question, I theorize that the areas that form verdigris have less oxidation. Bare copper in it's pure form is very, very reactive. When it's oxidized, it's somewhat protected from forming verdigris.
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Edited by BadThad
07/08/2008 3:17 pm
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ptb's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2008  3:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ptb to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks Bradthad; I get it!

When / if you have time I would like to see pics of the coins you mentioned that have started to "smooth" over the treated areas. Thanks again for the info.
Edited by ptb
07/08/2008 3:59 pm
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chrsb's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2008  4:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chrsb to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thad,

I did the BU test because I was thinking what the target buyer would be. If someone had a early BU cent with some verdigris on it, it would be worth the money to preserve it. A late BU cent would probably not be worth the time or money for the product to bother with. Depending on cost of the product, many well worn cents would not be worth it either. I was trying to find my 1909 VDB that has a probable "S" on it to test with but could not locate it, now that would be worth the purchase.

Once you get into Indians and earlier the cost per cent ratio increases and your product becomes more desirable to purchase. Something to think about when you go to promote the product!

If you need anything else just met me know, I have a never ending supply of messed up cents, I have a messed up pile I keep when I search wheat rolls and usually just take them to the bank. I also have a few rolls of Indians that I can dig up.

On a side note, I just noticed your link to your stock board. Back in the day I was quite the penny stock guru, spent many of days on the boards manipulating them babies! Raging Bull, Investors Hub(founding father), Silicon Investor, oh the memories. Wish I still had the time for research, I still day trade every once in a great awhile, anyways sorry for the off topic!
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BadThad's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2008  6:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Chris, we're good for now, thank you for the insight.

As it stands on my first personal test, I cannot recommend this product for BU coins. If it is used on a BU cent, the exposure time to should be kept to an absolute minimum. I may also try diluting the product, it can be easily diluted with distilled water. I designed the current strenth for old, oxidized cents with light to medium verdigris.

The 2008 BU cent I tested on for 24 hours suffered some staining. Right now, I suspect this is due to protectant the mint is using on new coins. I met with the manufacturer of this protectant chemical some months ago where he explained the product to me. It's the reason why the new Pres dollars don't rapidly tranish like the old Sac's. The mint is applying the anti-corrosion preservative as a final step. I suspect they are also applying it to the cents because they have the same "slippery feel" as the dollars. I believe what I have here is removal of that material and/or a slight reaction:

Image: Green-Copper-Corrosion---Chemistry 2008_24hours.jpg
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BadThad's Avatar
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 Posted 07/08/2008  6:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add BadThad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
On a side note, I just noticed your link to your stock board. Back in the day I was quite the penny stock guru, spent many of days on the boards manipulating them babies! Raging Bull, Investors Hub(founding father), Silicon Investor, oh the memories. Wish I still had the time for research, I still day trade every once in a great awhile, anyways sorry for the off topic!


Ahhh...cool! I don't much trade in penny stocks, just a little. I mainly stick with the big board stuff. Come on over and sign up! We need more members and even if you only trade a little, you'll find lots of good information there.
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mklpatrick's Avatar
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580 Posts
 Posted 07/15/2008  4:46 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mklpatrick to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I was led to this thread by Thad after he answered a generic penny cleaning question I had on another post. This is the most informative thread on this site I have seen thus far! (Well, the one that Dave was doing regarding coin photography was pretty sweet as well).

Anyhoo, I have a question. The test results were definitely amazing, but is there any possibility that over time as the pennies sit they will begin to react even more aggressively with the surrounding atmosphere due to cleaning with a solution that has never been used before, and thus never studied? Or what if the areas that were affected before suddenly and without reason dissolve completely one day? I don't mean to play devil's advocate here as I am excited about the potential of this stuff, and as a chemist/scientist I am sure you have probably thought that through. I'm just curious.
Edited by mklpatrick
07/15/2008 4:49 pm
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