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 Replies: 43 / Views: 7,508 |
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New Member
 United States
7 Posts |
I will go figure out how to turn on the feature so people can email me. What I'd like to know is how much does it cost to grade a coin (approximately). And can someone send me a link to great collections? or can I go some where locally to have some of them graded? I live in Northern California near Berkeley/San Franciso area.
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New Member
United States
7 Posts |
Sorry if I double posted some pics, I just figured out this topic has a second and now third page. I'm a newbie and would love more guidance. Does anybody want more pictures? Just from googling myself with no knowledge of coins, doesn't anybody want a pic of the Flying Eagle cent? From what I googled it could be valuable. Also the Seated Liberty dime looks like amazing condition. Please let me know if I should post more pics of individual coins, I'm taking pics with them still in the plastic case though. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1280 Posts |
Tough to estimate but $1500 may be a baseline value for each set
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New Member
United States
7 Posts |
Now that someone changed my post from the NEWBIE forum to the forum I'm not getting the help. Member acloco told me about using PCGS Photograde so I'm teaching myself. He states the 1798 is F15 okay so I've looked and will agree however there are several varieties of this coin, looks like I have the 13 star one so a F15 would be valued at 3,950 not $2k. Also member Machine20 says one entire set might be valued at $1,500 which makes no sense to me if ONE coin is worth more. I just checked one of the Trade coins on PCGS Photograde and because it's a CC mint mark it's value is very high depending if I'm grading it correctly it could be worth $2k to $3k, however the other Trade dollar has no mint so it looks like it's a Philadelphia which would only be valued at $425 if it's an AU50. So am I learning correctly? I wish my topic wasn't changed from the NEWBIE forum because before I posted I knew ZERO about coins. Member ACLOCO just taught me a lot by showing me PCGS Photograde. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1280 Posts |
You asked for low values and the PCGS values aren't actual sold amounts. Check ebay completed listings. Additionally, the surfaces on your coins are generally not original (cleaned) |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3540 Posts |
DennisSG - you would be correct about the 1798 Trade dollar.....if, your example was a Type 1, small eagle. Your 1798 is a type 2, heraldic eagle. There is still 7 varieties to sort through with the Type 2 1798 Trade dollar though. |
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New Member
United States
7 Posts |
Member ACLOCO, I think you meant the 1798 Bust not Trade dollar, but now knowing it is a type 2 Heralcic Eagle I understand. You have been and are of GREAT HELP to me! I can learn quick with the proper guidance. The 1873-CC Trade looks XF49 or XF45 or possibly even AU50 because that one is a CC the value looks pretty high to me (1,850 to $3k depending on grade), the other Trade is 1877 no mint mark so I guess that means Philadelphia and the value is only around $400, hugely different value. Machine 20 I get what you're saying even if some of these are worth retail $2-3k that's not what I'm going to get for them. Still $1,500 for one set sounds way off to me now that I've been taught how to look up their approx. value. I have more coins in a folder that eventually I'll need to go through too. I really appreciate the education, I had zero knowledge about coins when I logged on to this forum, now I feel like at least I'm not blind to how to determine value. With much appreciation to all who chimed in. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3540 Posts |
DennisSG - you are correct. Had "trade" dollar instead of "BUST" on the mind. argh!
There is.......easily....TEN THOUSAND years of collecting experience on this site. EVERY single member, no matter their "numismatic" experience level, brings something to our environment.
Offering opinions of coins, via pictures, is tough, even with perfect pictures.
All of us are here to help.
As others have said, you will fair a LOT better, if you are selling the sets, as individual items. As a completed set, you might realize 40 to 50% of realistic value. Of note, the plastic holders the sets are in, probably worth $100 to $200 each.
In terms of having coins professionally graded ("slabbed"), there is a value, rarity, condition, etc, etc, etc....point that needs to be taken in, and decide if the cost, time, and risk (coin grades, but receives a "details grade" because of a previous cleaning or damage). Grading dilemma is cost versus return on investment question that ALL coin collectors, have to decide. General consensus, a REAL street price of recent SOLD history of the exact grade of the coin in question, should be in the $250 to $300 price range. Cost of grading, can be $40 to over $100, per coin. Tough decision that faces every collector.
Why grade some of the coins in your position? Couple of reasons. Verifies all coins professionally graded, are genuine - protects you and the buyer. If the coin grades, Real SOLD pricing history can easily be verified by the seller and any potential buyers.
Last item for OUR consideration, and I am speaking from experience, I have to read every reply with a smile. As humans, when reading posts from other humans, we do not hear voice inflection, facial expression, body language, etc, etc. How many different possibilities of "OMG!" are there? The answer, as many as the number of humans that read the word. :)
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4692 Posts |
Well, unless I missed something, I think the OP is dead set on selling all together and without bothering to get them graded. They are his coins, so he can do as he pleases. Under these circumstances it is impossible to evaluate "what they are worth" because the likely buyer will be a dealer and they are worth much less "as is". Having said that, the realized price will probably be about 15-20% of that if graded and auctioned individually. I don't think I can contribute anything further to this thread.
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Moderator
 United States
189767 Posts |
 to the Community! |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1005 Posts |
Quote: The 1873-CC Trade looks XF49 or XF45 or possibly even AU50 because that one is a CC the value looks pretty high to me (1,850 to $3k depending on grade), the other Trade is 1877 no mint mark so I guess that means Philadelphia and the value is only around $400, hugely different value. Machine 20 I get what you're saying even if some of these are worth retail $2-3k that's not what I'm going to get for them. Still $1,500 for one set sounds way off to me now that I've been taught how to look up their approx. value. Both of the Trade dollars (and most of the other individual coins posted) appear to have been harshly cleaned, meaning that they will not make the grades stated if sent for grading but instead receive an "XF details, cleaned" designation in the case of the Trade dollars. I assume you are using PCGS price guide, and it is important to know that those prices only apply to PCGS straight graded coins that do not have problems. It is hard to say how much less the cleaned details coin would get since this varies widely based on the degree of cleaning and the market for the individual coin, but you should not expect more than half of the price guide figure for the equivalent details coin. The other factor that others have correctly pointed out is that selling the sets as whole sets will bring a lot less money. You can't just add up the prices of the individual coins unless you sell them individually. Few collectors would be interested in buying a completed set of mainly cleaned coins, some quite rare, without the assurance of third party authenticity. So if you sell them as whole sets, it is almost assured the buyer will be a coin dealer who will factor in a profit margin to keep their business going. The dealer will break up the set and have some coins graded individually, this labor costs money so even though the $1,500 sounds way off based on price guides for graded individual coins in the sets, considering the factors it might not be. The full set of coins is only worth what somebody will pay you for it. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
To start I suggest you look into purchasing a copy of what is called the Red Book by Whitman Publishing. Then sit down and look up in that book what you have. Next remember the prices shown in that book are normally over priced by about 25% so remember that when looking up your coins. Also, those prices shown are normally highest prices for coins being sold. Also, look up your coins on ebay since there you will see what people are asking for coins. Maybe not getting that price but that is what is being asked. Another thing you may try is looking up coin shows in your area. Go to one of those. Take a list of what you have and show to several dealers at the show. Do not be in a hurry to sell anything unless you really need the money now. Take your time and look up everything. Better to waste a little time than loose a lot of money being in a hurry. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2483 Posts |
...anyone else seeing obverse die crack activity on that 1798 bust dollar? (date to stars behind hair & through LIBERTY?)
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Replies: 43 / Views: 7,508 |
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Posted 03/02/2019 2:50 pm
