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Replies: 9 / Views: 933 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
875 Posts |
So I know I won't be able to get a 1909-S VDB, 1914-D, 1922 no D, or a 1931-S all in BU condition. So what are the breaking points in the Wheat series?
I have been digging around on the forum and from what I have gathered that the Philly's from 1909-1928 are doable and all mint marks from 1929 to 1959 are reasonable prospects.
I know "affordable" is subjective, but it's hard to put a price. I could say $50 but if a BU is say $60 I would consider that doable still over time. I guess I'm asking where does XF/AU price jump crazy to get to MS or that they are just very hard to find in MS.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2114 Posts |
Around two years ago, I started and bought Lincoln cents from 1934 to 1950 (PDS) inside MS66 RD Slabs, (1934-D MS66 RB, 1935-S MS65 RD).. I was hoping to be able to go all the way up to 1909, even in MS62 rating, but I couldn't afford to do that, so I stopped at 1934 by losing interest. I do have a couple of in-betweeners 1909 - 1928 in MS slabs like the 1909 VDB MS65 RD... Good luck on your hunt! 
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Moderator
 United States
94636 Posts |
Just get what pleases you and you can afford, While it is always nice to get as high a grade as you can, it is not always feasible. In my cent collection my 1909 up through 1939 are of 'circulation' quality, maybe someday I may find better ones to upgrade with, but my collection is complete - and THAT is far more important to me.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4036 Posts |
I started doing BU roll searches decades ago. They were more common then, but you can still find them today. I'd buy everything I could find at reasonable prices, and then go through them to pick out the varieties and gems, then sell the remainders, often for more than I paid for them originally if I got a good deal.
For instance, you can still find original rolls of 1955-S Cents since they were put away in quantity due to they were the last year of the old SF Mint. They will cost you $15-$20 for 50 coins. Now that is affordable! Plus you learn a lot about coins looking through rolls.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
8724 Posts |
Quote: then sell the remainders, often for more than I paid for them originally if I got a good deal. I have bought your leftovers at a good price and found some doubled dies. I think the last was 62P's.
-makecents-
Edited by -makecents- 09/20/2025 9:04 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19930 Posts |
By BU I assume you mean MS RED.
You're going to find it VERY difficult to get the 1920's branch mint coins in MS red. They are rarer than the key dates and extremely expensive. "doable" but only if you have a thick wallet.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
875 Posts |
They don't all have to be RED. In the earlier years RD/BRN or even just Brown is quite appealing plus they tend to have less problems
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
2114 Posts |
Quote: They don't all have to be RED. In the earlier years RD/BRN or even just Brown is quite appealing . . . . RAW those coins go for around $20 - $50, yes, they are doable... As I said before, I had to stop; they started to get too costly for me in higher-grade slabs. (MS65-66)...
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4036 Posts |
Quote: I have bought your leftovers at a good price and found some doubled dies. I think the last was 62P's. Well, you can't find everything!
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
8724 Posts |
Quote: Well, you can't find everything! In your defense, many of those doubled dies are extremely subtle. 
-makecents-
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Replies: 9 / Views: 933 |
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