1909 S VDB Fake Or Auth.

The seller is a Lincoln expert and a stand-up guy. I guarantee the coin is real and not cleaned or altered. He is the type of dealer that if you buy the coin, submit it for grading and it came back fake or cleaned, he would refund your money. This is the VERY RARE case where you could feel comfortable about buying a key date coin on ebay.

Now that I look again, I see there is a problem with the coin. There's a rather large print on the obverse along the bottom of the obverse. It also appears that an attempt to remove the print has been performed because the luster is missing in that whole area. I bet if you contact and ask Tom about it he'd tell you. I've dealt with him before and exchanged quite a few emails....this guy is the real deal. How many people are willing to put their phone number in an ebay ad? LOL

Nonetheless, printer or not, it's a real, nice SVDB!

This is a case of where the buyer would be better off with a graded ANACS Details slab.

A high-grade S-VDB with good overall eye appeal is always desirable, even with an appropriate "Details" for the fingerprint.

Save the PCGS Genuine slabs for "problem" key-date coins like low-grade cleaned-etc. 1916-D Mercury dimes where they only need to be "authentic".

Agree.

I mentioned "Genuine" as meaning it wouldn't slab problem free rather than as a PCGS-specific comment - but I realize the confusion since that's the "word" that PCGS uses.

I do prefer the ANACS and NGC "Details" indicators where a numeric grade is still assigned.

I think ANACS will only go as high as MS-60 Details if there is a problem with an MS coin, however.

I have an PCGS AU50 S VDB, I'm looking to buy one @ MS65 grading soon. but when I look at that coin, something in my mind told me that is not authentic. The den/scratch next to The mint mark "S" made me think that had been alter. I did not see any scratch on mine LWC. I read a article indicate some ppl added "S" to an authentic 1909 VDB LWC and sell it as an 1909 S VDB.

I am totally with coppercoins on this, I've spent some serious money on coins but I want to see them in hand before money is exchanged. A slab makes no difference to me at all on this issue, that just means I trust everyone BUT me to tell me the coin is genuine.. in which case I shouldn't be buying it. JMHO, no offense intended or implied.

A couple/three hundred... no real risk.. beyond that.. the pleasure is in the shopping anyhow.

I agree 100%. If you're going to spend big dollars on a coin, you want to see it in person with your own eyes.

If the excuse is "I don't have anywhere local to go to", that is lame too. If you're ready to spend $1000+, plan it out, go to a big show and spend a few bucks on gas. The opportunity cost is but a fraction of what you're planning on spending....and well worth it. At any given good show you'll find plenty of key date coins to choose from.

What exactly does rejected mean. For example, can you send a coin and say don't slab unless 64+? Or does it mean fake, or rejected because it's been artificially toned?

I'm not expert enough to say it is or isn't genuine, but I'm bothered by the area near the mm, especially k9-12. Would damage or defective planchet in that location automagically cause a kickback?