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Replies: 107 / Views: 10,595 |
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Valued Member
United States
455 Posts |
Wow, that coin is awesome. A real looker!
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Rest in Peace
 United States
9104 Posts |
Quote: When I sold the coins in the SP slabs at my grades, I guaranteed they'd slab, anywhere, at the regular submissions level, all the buyer had to do was crack them out of the slabs before re-submitting. OK, we now have a higher level of slobbing, where coins have to pass the sniff test. Won't this make virtually all existing TPG coins worth subtantially less, since any slobbed coin that's not in a "smells good" holder will automagically carry the stigma that it couldn't pass the sniff test?
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Valued Member
United States
79 Posts |
Well, just my Two Cents, but I personally don't think there will ever be a set definition, or a complete guideline to tell whether or not a coin is AT or NT. To me intuition plays to large of a role in judging tone. I can pick up a coin and not see any obvious evidence of AT (odd colors, odd progression of colors, etc) and still having a feeling in my gut that says "Hmm, something about this coin doesn't seem quite right, so I put it back into the slot page, or thank the dealer for his time and have him put it back behind glass, or whatever.
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Valued Member
United States
424 Posts |
Collecting...It all comes down to collecting. You collect what you like, be it AT, NT, or whatever, you collect what appeals to your eye, and you pay what you're willing to pay. If you're collecting for value, then you become an investor, rather than the collector. Collect what you like, that's my rule. Just my opinion...and just like sphincters, everybody has one.  
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote: Sorry to rant, But I can never understand why people want to try to make rules when there are no rules. Unless they are not collectors and are investors, then that is another world. Just my thoughts. Big Ed
 To the place where sometimes a post gets out of hand. Your thoughts are normal or close in this instance. Myself I usually get rather bored with long posts or long replys and seldom read more than half. Less when it looks like someone is attempting to impress people they don't even know. And when someone starts the insults or silly, childish I know more than you stuff, I just move on to something more interesting. Stick around here and see what I mean. In the meantime, once more: 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1547 Posts |
Quote: o the place where sometimes a post gets out of hand. It's not a hard concept to grasp, Carl, it's called "thinking." You know, "I think, therefore, I am?" When one does not think, therefore, well, um, one is not. 
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Rest in Peace
 United States
9104 Posts |
Declared Ergo Sum Cognito: Am Reasoning, Therefore Existing, See?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1547 Posts |
Res ipsa loquitur. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1547 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2764 Posts |
To me, the color on the coin is nice but it doesn't fit with the coin. Thank you everyone for their posts.
I am waiting for the story.......
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New Member
United States
14 Posts |
IMHO, I say NT (Natural Toning) - reason: I don't believe a 'coin doctor' can create that clean break in color (yellow to magenta) perfectly along the contour line where the field meets the raised device. AT (artificial toning) ignores the elevations on the coin surface and splotches all over the place. You see this change (absence of toning) again all along the peripheral lettering. Therefore I say, NT. I would pay a 50 to 100 premium for such a coin. That's just my opinion. In a related topic, I have some questions for the experts: what happens to toned coins (for the sake of discussion, let's say naturally toned ones) in a decade or two? Does the "toning" process continue until the coin becomes essentially blackened? Or does the toning stop at some point in time? What will my present-day toned coins look like 20 years from now?
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Rest in Peace
 United States
9104 Posts |
Sorry, I got lost in the shuffle. The reason I tried to get people to commit to a definition of AT and NT, and what mechanically made them different, was to place this example. For 20+ years, my shop was within 200' of Lancaster Glass. This was an ordinary white ASE. I did absolutely nothing to it but put it on a shelf. No chemicals, special light, contact with high-sulphur paper, heat, etc. Since I wasn't trying to create a toned coin, I didn't keep track, but a good guess would be three-six months later, the exposed side looked like this, the other was still white. Obviously, this is rather accelerated toning, but if your coins are exposed to that atmosphere, it seems this is a natural result. Just for the halibut, I put it on ebay starting at $0.01 with $100 BIN. It was snapped up within three hours, in the middle of the night. Untoned was prolly $20 at the time. So is it AT or NT? 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3592 Posts |
biggfredd, I'd call it AT...but only because I don't believe in NT, after all who is going to define what is natural ? A coin stored in wood,glass,in the sun,in humidity,in plastic ?...and who will define how long natural toning takes to be considered natural? 3 months,3 years, 3 decades?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3755 Posts |
Artificial and natural are COMPLETELY WRONG TERMS. I HATE the use of them. They are used in a biased manner dependant on the persons line of thinking. Normally I dont disagree with Thad, but here I do vehemently. Especially for him and those that hold his same opinion to insult me (YES insult me) by saying I am not a serious collector. Thad, dont get indignant when someone comes back at you after insulting them. By saying a serious collector wouldnt like this coin or one like it, you have insulted them. Using the phrase "only a serious collector" in ANY argument generally amounts to an insult. That aside, to my point... As has been pointed out, toning is the NATURAL reaction of the metal of any given coin to the occurences in the atmosphere that the coin is in. Wether it be solely to heat, or just to chemicals or to a combination of both, it is a NATURAL occurence. Period. Any argument to the contrary is futile. These are NATURAL chemical responses. So the coin in question is a NATURAL toning. And as the OP has now pointed out, this coin was not "cooked". So where does that put all of you screaming its "artificial"? It puts you in the wrong on your terminology and line of thinking. No purposeful actions caused this coin to color. Note that last sentence....no PURPOSEFUL actions.... THAT is the terminology that truly describes some toned coins. Accidental and purposeful. This coin was toned completely by accident. Just the chemicals in the air reacting to the silver in the coin. (On a side note...DUDE, MOVE YOUR SHOP! If there is enough sulfur just floating around in the air from a glass shop, it CANT be good to breath!) Wait, you dont have that shop anymore do you? Anyway, had fredd purposefully put it in an old envelope in the furnace room to get the coin to tone, that would be purposeful, NOT artificial. As for damage...nope, dont buy into that. At least not to the extent to say its as bad as gouging with a knife. Thad, technically speaking, the things you do with Verdis Care (or whatever its called) and the like would amount to damage as well. At least so far as PCGS is concerned. One of your rehabed coins goes through their sniffer, its getting a genuine slab and nothing more. That comes from your very own line of thinking, just taken to the next step. I have paid premiums for some beautifully toned coins. Some in the rainbow category, one gorgeous gold toned V nickel, etc. And they are NOT damaged as if a knife was taken to them. And I AM a serious collector. So neither artifial or natural, but accidental or purposeful. And as was shown here, just looking at the coin does NOT tell you which it is.
Edited by smokeriderdon 07/19/2011 9:01 pm
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Rest in Peace
 United States
9104 Posts |
Quote: In a related topic, I have some questions for the experts: what happens to toned coins (for the sake of discussion, let's say naturally toned ones) in a decade or two? Does the "toning" process continue until the coin becomes essentially blackened? According to the explanation badthad has provided, unless I misunderstand, all toned coins will eventually go black. I think there's more than that to it, tho, having seen blast white coins from century old unopened bags of dollars, and original rolls with reeding black as coal on otherwise blast white coins. Also, if we accept that as the only explanation, at some future date all silver and copper coins will be black, with the only way to have a white coin will be to remove the tarnish. As anyone who has seen a jet black coin can tell you, they don't display details worth a darn.
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Replies: 107 / Views: 10,595 |