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 Replies: 28 / Views: 5,312 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10635 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
5240 Posts |
Straight Good or XF details (old cleaning). I am having trouble seeing why I would prefer the straight graded one.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4416 Posts |
I've got over 2,500 DETAILS coins in my collection .... a.k.a. counterstamps!  |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I never even look at those labels. What some say is a detailed coin, others possibly would say WHAT? I buy coins I like regardless of labels.
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Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21786 Posts |
I do what just carl does:
slabbed or not,
details or problem free.
I may? use the description as a guide, but in the end, I always go on my own judgement.
That is why it is always best to examine the coin in hand first, before deciding to buy,
unless there a guaranteed return refund policy.
That especially includes for a 'details' coin, which could well come with a huge price advantage, just because some collectors can become very disappointed with a 'details' coin in their collection.
Some collectors' trash can be most collectors' treasure.
Edited by sel_69l
12/19/2019 04:46 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4416 Posts |
A high percentage of colonial coppers nowadays qualify as "details" coins. While I tend to much prefer raw coins, I can well appreciate footing the cost of slabbing a "details" colonial; especially so, if it's a scarce variety. I prefer avoiding grades and "details" labels on such pieces, instead seeking "genuine" and the variety attribution labels. Why state the obvious like "corroded, whizzed, counterstamped, details, etc.?" My thought is simply label attributes that are needing to be defined.
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Moderator
 United States
54281 Posts |
Quote:
tooled (whatever that is) A tooled coin is one that has been altered, usually in an effort to conceal wear or enhance areas of the coin. |
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Valued Member
United States
442 Posts |
On older coins, cleaned doesn't bother me much. Especially if they have re-toned and has good eye appeal. Holed however I just can't get into. Or bent. Damaged? Depends on the damaged. I've got 1855 gold dollar that PCGS gave an "AU Damaged" to. Damage turned out to be a tiny speck. Only with my 20x could I tell it was a pin prick. Got a coin that I find absolutely beautiful, for half the retail cost of an undamaged AU. I just posted something in the TPG section on why can't PCGS Or NGC give a number grade to details coins. ANACS usually will. |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
7940 Posts |
Yes.
Buy any coin you want.
Why is there even a question about this?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
705 Posts |
There was nothing wrong with asking the question. I'll bet many collectors(novices especially such as myself) have the same question.
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Valued Member
 United States
461 Posts |
Yeah, I thought I'd ask around before unwittingly making a mistake. Don't want to spend meaningful $$ on something that can't be resold later.
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Valued Member
United States
135 Posts |
Quote:
Yeah, I thought I'd ask around before unwittingly making a mistake. Don't want to spend meaningful $$ on something that can't be resold later Just about any coin can be resold later. Question is can you find someone to pay your minimum price? 99.9% of my classic coins were purchased from 76 through 83, grade-school and middle school. I would say a good percentage would be details coins, that's all my budget allowed at the time. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4692 Posts |
First, a detailed coin is simply an opinion. I've resubmitted details coins later to have them TPG graded in no problem holders. Also, it depends what the coin is, and why one is purchasing it -- for my type set I have purchased details coins with good eye appeal and cracked them out with the peace of mind of knowing they are considered genuine -- this is probably a good idea for heavily counterfeited coins such as Trade dollars. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3343 Posts |
A lot of the well-worn coins in my grandpa's old Lincoln book are details coins....and he pulled all of them out of circulation. Just because they're details it doesn't mean they weren't money.
Grandpa's objective was to fill the holes in the book. In the 1940's it was like prospecting. A one cent coin like his 1910-S might be worth a whole dollar. Condition wasn't important.
"Two minutes ago I would have sold my chances for a tired dime." Fred Astaire
Edited by thq
01/06/2020 12:17 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3546 Posts |
I used to buy them at auctions when I first started out collecting coins when I did not even realize what 'details' meant. When I finally took the time to look the term up I decided to focus on non-details coins en route to a 'more pure' collection of coins.
I reasoned that there are just too many coins out there to choose from and I am usually not in that big of a rush to settle for only 2nd best in the short term etc.
Bottom line is that 'in general' higher grade (non-detailed) coins appreciate faster relatively speaking compared to their detailed counterparts etc. It is simply a better investment of my $s.
IMHO
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Posted 12/18/2019 01:53 am
