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1969 Coins PVC Issues.

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 Posted 10/30/2020  3:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I've been trying to warn people for years that these will soon all be gone, ruined by time and a thin layer of PVC plastic inside the packaging

Quote:
cladking says some PVC on inside of packaging?
If anyone knows, he does, and I would love to learn more.
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 Posted 10/30/2020  5:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cladking to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The mint set packaging was four layers and the coins went in the middle. The interior two layers are exceedingly thin but do contain PVC. You can see this when the plastic delaminates in bad storage. It's getting more and more common to find this delamination but it's still seen only infrequently.

I'm guessing the damage to the coins doesn't look like typical PVC damage because there is so very little PVC. It does still cause irreparable damage even in tiny amounts.

Coins should be removed from the mint sets and this especially applies to coins from the sets listed in the other thread.

If you must store coins in the packaging you might be able to do so longer if the sets are stored under ideal conditions (steady temperature and low humidity) and stored vertically in the paper sleeves. I believe these will go bad as well but it will take longer. So many are already ruined that it's just heartbreaking and I don't want to risk losing more of my coins.

Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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 Posted 10/30/2020  6:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Morgan Nerd to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm sorry, but I don't buy it. I'm not removing the coins from my 1960 Proof set. The Mint has never used PVC. Someone who has actually worked at the Mint in the 60's please stand up!
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 Posted 10/30/2020  8:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cladking to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
'60 proof sets are relatively stable. I never said they were not.

Mint sets are less stable and the '69 to '84 are least stable.

I don't trust any mint packaging any longer but some like 1980 proof sets show no signs of deterioration.
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 Posted 10/31/2020  11:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Believe7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
To CLADING...I was just getting ready to call PCGS and let them have-it, because it wont be the first time that I've had issues with them.
Your opinion is worth considering, as I called the USMint and they could not affirm that the 1960's coin packaging were PVC free.
Thanks again and thank you all.
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 Posted 10/31/2020  12:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Believe7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
This whole thing with PVC is kind of unsettling specially if you've spent 130.00 in fees and your return is zero....no holder, no box to add insult to injury.
I'll be removing my mint sets, it breaks my heart, but it will break my pocket much more.
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[img]uploaded/Believe7/20201031_coins.jpg[/img]
Edited by Believe7
10/31/2020 12:26 pm
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 Posted 11/01/2020  09:46 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cladking to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
To CLADING...I was just getting ready to call PCGS and let them have-it, because it wont be the first time that I've had issues with them.
Your opinion is worth considering, as I called the USMint and they could not affirm that the 1960's coin packaging were PVC free.
Thanks again and thank you all.


Your nickel is not wholly ruined. While lots of these coins are long beyond salvage yours has only a very light residue which will almost certainly come off easily.

It's possible this isn't even PVC but everything I know suggests it is. The reason it takes so long to wreck the surface is that the amount of PVC is very tiny and it mostly affects the highpoints up pressed up against it. When it comes off it often comes off completely.

You're out $130 but I have coins that were very valuable and are now completely ruined. I spent years and many hours finding Gems and a lot are beyond salvage. I share your pain.

The important thing is to not let all the moderns suffer the same fate. It is probable that even the light haze will become permanent over time once removed from the set if it isn't stabilized. I don't know.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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 Posted 11/01/2020  5:25 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Lancek to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I sent some 50s to 60s proof sets to ANACS for conservation and grading. The cellophane had degraded and it looks like there were layers to it. The coins looked like they were covered in a film. I posted pics on here after taking them out of the packaging, but before mailing them in. Many people thought they were damaged or pitted. I knew it was surface issues. They came back looking great. Graded anywhere from a proof 65 to 69. And as shiny as the day they left the mint. The only one that still had some issues was a Franklin from a set that developed holes in the cellophane. Causing carbon spotting. The carbon spotting was much lighter after conservation, but not completely gone.

I was already sending in another coin to ANACS for conservation. And they charge a flat fee per submission. Up to 20 coins for $39. Sent in three proof sets plus 5 other coins. So essentially $1.95 per coin for conservation. And it was during one of their specials so grading was only $10, and free return shipping.

Was it worth it on the penny and nickel, probably not, but I liked keeping the sets together. And doing something with them before the mint packaging did any more damage.

Trying the same thing with either of the big two would be cost prohibitive. Just sharing my experience. Maybe some people wanting to preserve old mint or proof set might consider. Also works great with uncirculated Ikes in the blue pack. Those also develop a very hazy coating.
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 Posted 11/02/2020  07:10 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Believe7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Lancek, thanks for the info and the prices from ANACS are great.
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 Posted 11/02/2020  08:57 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cladking to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Also works great with uncirculated Ikes in the blue pack. Those also develop a very hazy coating.


!971 Ike packaging is also very unstable.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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 Posted 11/02/2020  2:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Believe7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
CLADKING...Got the 91% alcohol and I will be checking the coin tonight...I'm thinking about sending it to NGC this time.
Wish me luck.
Thanks again.
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 Posted 11/02/2020  5:58 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cladking to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
CLADKING...Got the 91% alcohol and I will be checking the coin tonight...I'm thinking about sending it to NGC this time.
Wish me luck.



It will work.

As soon as you put it in the haze will disappear but let it soak anyway or it will come right back. You can always put them back in but it's easier to just let it go 24 hours and do it once. Bad ones will take 4 to 7 days if it works.

There is another means to restore coins that won't clean up but it is a last resort because it will destroy large numbers of coins; it makes them look cleaned ofttimes.

Good luck (but you shouldn't need it in this case).
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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 Posted 11/02/2020  6:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add cladking to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
A long soak in 70% alcohol will often cause severe carbon spotting on clad or cu/ ni coinage. Never let the percentage of water get over about 20%. Old used 91% will get higher and higher water %age so when it gets dirty and a lot of alcohol has evaporated toss it out and use fresh.

A little acetone or denatured alcohol in the mix can be beneficial. My favorite mix is half 91%, a quarter acetone, and a quarter denatured. These are all exceedingly volatile liquids so keep away from flames and avoid breathing the fumes. Wash your hands unless you wear gloves to protect the coins and the solution will dry your hands out.

It' really pretty easy and safe if you use common sense. Acetone will damage many wood finishes and any of the solutions will spot. If you wash it down the sink use lots of cold water if you have plastic pipes. Don't put significant quantities in septic tanks. Spent fluid does a good job of making concrete white again if you dump it in sunlight.
Time don't fly, it bounds and leaps.
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 Posted 11/03/2020  10:38 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Believe7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
CLADKING...All of your tips are keepers.
For those who dont believe that PVC is present in mint packages, speaking for the 1969s mint set that I own....Here is an image of that package, its green in color and has some hazing.
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 Posted 11/24/2020  06:45 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Believe7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
@MORGAN NERD...The nickel came back from PCGS as such, mind you, I took it out of the cellophane my self and sent it off.
My plan is to send to NGC after treatment in 92% alcohol...wish me luck.
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