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Replies: 19 / Views: 3,451 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5211 Posts |
Quote: I agree with just buying PM containing sets...
44 year old proof sets (1968) sold for $5...listed value is now $5 The 1968 proof sets contains PM. Just Sayin'
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
Yup, around $3.20 of that set's value is the 40% half
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
If that was the goal I would go with quality over quantity. I completely agree that common things generally remain common which severely limits their upside.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4901 Posts |
Correct...and that is why most that buy PM containing products go with ASE's or the gold counterparts...small premium, quality and content can't be beat AND easy to sell
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Valued Member
 United States
315 Posts |
Awesome, this is exactly the advice I was looking for. )
My coin dealer has been in business over forty years, I think except for newly discovered errors, his prices dont change. He consistently has old stock at a dollar or two above what he paid, even if he bought it in the 70`s.
He has tons of three coin bucentennial silver sets too. :)
Edited by Superhal 10/03/2013 7:29 pm
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Valued Member
United States
131 Posts |
I was told once by a older collector to buy old high dollar coins.. they rarely go down and they aren't making anymore of them.... good luck and happy huntings... PEACE...
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2734 Posts |
I've been buying common Silver Proof coins/sets as bullion for years now. I've seen people at coin shows walk right past modern Silver Proof coins priced at melt value, and then buying circulated junk silver.  ASE's are easy to sell, true, but when you buy them you always pay a premium over spot. Junk silver and AG Proofs can be found for melt, which gives you more silver for your money.
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Valued Member
 United States
315 Posts |
Quote: I was told once by a older collector to buy old high dollar coins.. they rarely go down and they aren't making anymore of them.... I'm trying to get in on the ground floor as much as possible. Imho, it's hard to tell on the older coins which have room to increase in value. If they have already been identified as valuable, then I think it's too late. In other words, I don't want to spend $98 on a $1 coin and in 20 years have it be worth $99 (doubled face value.) I want to get into something like bicentennials where you can buy them at say 40-50 cents today, and maybe sell them for 75-$1 later.
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Valued Member
United States
368 Posts |
i have a few proof sets, but I am reluctant to buy any more. considering for example the 1983-S proof set. priced at $11.00 when it came out, current retail is around $3.50 - $4.00 so it has lost value in 30 years, what difference does 20 more years make? by that time if trends continue it will be equivalent of $1.50 - $2.00 today. maybe 2013 ASE are good investments, if they are well protected over the years, they are bound to be worth something one day. only thing is,who knows when that day will come.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1247 Posts |
Any new coins I buy have been ASE's (just regular BU). and Silver Mint Proof sets... (2010 onwards) I did buy some 3 cent coins (1 at auction and 1 at a stamp show). All the other coins I have bought at face or found.. what does PM mean?
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Valued Member
 United States
315 Posts |
Quote: i have a few proof sets, but I am reluctant to buy any more. considering for example the 1983-S proof set. priced at $11.00 when it came out, current retail is around $3.50 - $4.00 Awesome, that's a good one for me, not so good for you though. :( The one thing I like about proof sets is that there is a set floor for value, they can never go below face. Buying a 1/5/10/25/50/$1 for say $3-4 is exactly what I am looking for. Also, looking back, it seems that after 20 years, proof sets hit a floor and stop going down. If I can buy at the bottom and it stays at the same price, that's fine. Quote: what does PM mean? Precious metals, gold and silver.
Edited by Superhal 10/04/2013 10:02 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
you are likely going to be sorely disappointed with your approach. my advice is to study a series you find interesting and stick with it. a common mistake that new collectors make is that they buy scads of worthless coins thinking they are making good choices and that they will go up in value. Once you've bought up enough of this material that you have nothing else cheap to buy and you've learned nothing- you will lose interest in the hobby and move on to something else. The sad part is - all the money you invested could have gone to something you truly would have enjoyed owning. buying coins as an investment takes time, time, time, and more time. that time is spent learning how to grade, learning how to spot varieties, learning what's out there in the marketplace, and learning what the competition knows and doesn't know. you aren't going to get that information from a forum- and if someone does give it to you- you probably won't recognize it for the good advice that it is. but to help you out: post 1964: MS-66 or better Kennedy 40% silvers 1965-1970. High end individual coins from mint sets- 1969 quarters that are nice. 1981-S SBAs that are nice. better buys: proof Indian cents. proof lincolns through 1953. any 19th century coin besides Morgan dollars in mint state under $250.
Edited by cc99999 10/04/2013 10:09 pm
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Valued Member
 United States
315 Posts |
Thanks for the info. :)
I'm having a lot of fun so far actually. :D
The only thing that kind of sucked so far was going through about 10 kgs of loose change and only taking out 1 wheat, 1 mercury, 3 bicentennials, and a bag full of pre zinc copper pennies.
Getting into the non-commons has really been a lot better. Not only are they inherently rarer, they're usually inherently worth more and look great too.
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Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
2135 Posts |
You could take the contrarian view.
If you buy coins cheap enough, there will always be people around who won't be able to resist a bargain.
I sell mixed world coins at a car boot sales at 20p each, 6 for £1. You can buy such coins at 10p each in bulk - I'd be happy to sell to you, to get you started.
For young people - 20p is nothing, they wouldn't bend down to pick a 20p coin off the ground.
As it is, it tempts a few people into collecting - for example, a girl about 6 comes back again and again to buy a few more; a boy of 9 bought 6 coins, his granny came over and bought a proof set and some first day covers, the boy came back, dithered over a Roman coin at £4 but bought a Victorian penny at £6. A gaggle of teachers from the mid-west US bought farthings and halfpennies and crowns for the folks back home. It's penny stuff but one meets interesting people.
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Valued Member
United States
329 Posts |
I say you have to buy what you like, it's going to start off as YOUR coin collection until you are knowledgeable enough to try and flip a few coins or cherry pick them. The modern silver gold sets that come out usually have a small bubble after issue. But as said above if you just buy a bunch if random low price stuff you likely will not have much when all is said and done. PCGS just had an article about how adding meaning to a collection does add value. Should you go sell off your collection and it has coherence to certain types, grades, eras etc you will be able to pull more value out of it than a collection of random coins... And I believe that holds true at any price point beit cents or gold coins...
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