Key Date Strategies

I have just a small collection from 1 cent to quarters which I try to complete as far as possible through swaps for fun.
I am collecting more seriously high grade coins from France. They are as hard to find as key dates and especially in France relatively expensive.
So I can only tell you from my experience on these coins where I go through the lists of traders that are established outside of France. The choice is much smaller and my collection grows only slowly but this way my bank account doesn't get hurt.
So maybe you should check the lists of traders from abroad.

I have a friend who basically complains about the same thing this thread is about. Avg income, key dates too expensive yada yada yada. Yet, every time I see him he is telling me about the this or that or a set that he has just purchased. What I have to do is stop buying when I need to purchase an expensive item. It has taken me about 6 months to be ready to buy a 1955 DDO Lincoln but I have accumulated the funds by not purchasing anything, saving my coin money and even selling off some of my less than important (to me) coins. I know this goes against the nature of a coin collector, but when funds are limited, what else can we do?
Jim

Okie,

This my trick on how I got my penny book almost complete minus the 1955 dd and 1909 svb on penny book. I am doing the same on my 1857 Thur 09 penny book. I did all this on ebay in serval months without using the buy the it know on getting an 1931s and 14d from an dealer on 500 to 700 on what they sell them on ebay. Lets start on day one.
1. I bought an complete book 09 Thur 95 minus 09s coins with proofs for 365 .
I went hobby lobby and bought new books to update it. It had 31s and 14d in book. I got those expensive 14d, 31s, semi keys out the book.
2. Same day I bought an incomplete book with 14d in there 150 bucks . I am up two 14d keys. I bought an 59 Thur 07 bu coin set for 19 bucks
3. My last book was complete minus 09 svd and even had 22 week d in there. I won auction for 475. I pulled the 1970 small date, 22 week d, 09s out the book . I had some extra bu coins 41 Thur 58 coins. I updated this book. I listed on ebay in galley section on first page. One week later it sold for 430 bucks. I lost 70 dollars on book but I did get the 22 week d, 09s, 70 small date cent. I got my expensive coins for good price I thought. I did learn something in selling book . I should have sold 14d and 31s, other semi keys, in another auction besides leaving them in book. I could have turned an profit.

My penny book is complete minus the 09s svd, 22 plain, 55 83, 84 dd . I got Lucky and added proofs down to 1950 after losing serval auctions working on them. I need the 1970 small date proof to finish it. I did buy an 1972 dd in slab for 495 on ebay for set.

That's I what I do is buy books pull the good stuff and dump on ebay for keys. I done it lot. I have 3 or 4 extra 14d Penny's in my collection. I have an second book complete after buying serval books . I just bought another book for 90 since it had an 14d. I may build an third book if I can get serval 09s and 31s cents. I am going to dump all my extra penny books to get money to buy an 1955 dd , 83, 84, maybe proofs from 36 Thur 42. If I see an book with keys I try to it get on ebay. Most of time I lose auctions to other dealers who own coin shops. They buy and resell them . They part out the books and sell coins one at time to turn an profit. I hate losing to those other coin dealers.

One last thing the reason why I have those extra 1914 d cents. I found them since they were in sets for cheap prices. If I see an key in set I try to win it even if dont need it. I will use it for trader , or resell later to raise money for keys. I learned keys are cheaper in incomplete sets for whatever reason on ebay. I guess an lot peaple would rather buy there keys all by there selfs in one coin auctions for high prices. I even got luckey on my 1857 thru 09 book. I have two 1877 keys an one 09s keys. I am going to build two books and resell the secord book using my keys. Keep one and sell the other book.

You can start out cheap. Last week I bought an water damaged 09 thru 40 book for 18 bucks. I pulled the 11d and 12d, 13d, 13s, 13d, 15, 26s, 27s, 28s, 23s, 31 thru 33 out the book. The rest was ruined. I may need dellers darker to cover up the green spots on the the rest them or spend them. I am going to try save what I can on that junk book. I used an lot them in my 3 or 4 sets for resell.

One last thing bid on what you can afford to pay. Dont worry if lose an auction. There is another auction later. I had lost lots auctions to pro dealers. You may bid on 10 books and win 3 books . Thats the way it is.

Have fun chevrolet454ss

All my extra books will be sold later minus the 09 svb, and 22 plain to raise money finish my sets. I onley need one set of each to keep. I hope I can turn profit where I can build me an nickel, dime or dollar book next after I done with pennys. I am sick of looking at pennys these days. I am ready to go to an another coin book.

You could cheat and buy reproductions, I won't tell if you won't

In all seriousness, to complete my U.S. type set I do plan on buying reproductions for two 18th century coins and a Gobrecht silver dollar.

There's a point where I have to admit I haven't won lotto yet.

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Hence, the reason why otherwise common (such as the VERY common SVDB) go for uncommon money

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Ya... like the '16D dime and many others. This is the one thing I dislike about U.S. coins- A Canadian coin will only sell for $800 in G-4 if there are less than 25 in existence. There were 116,000 '16D's minted!

Before you begin a collection,think of a series and grade you would like to collect.Take a look at a price list for the entire series.
Coin World,I feel their prices are too high,but it will give you an idea of what you are up against.
Then ask yourself,if my money situation stays the same could I ever afford to finish this set,if the answer is a big "NO",then drop your grade expectations.Unless you are happy without the keys.
My barber 10c series is a prime example.I would love this series in a VF and better,but for me this was cost prohibitive.So I went with good to fine with a very few of the latter dates in VF,came from dealers junk silver.Only lack 7 coins finishing the set and yes I already have the 1895 O and feel the set is complete without the 1894 S which I could never afford anyway.If I wanted to add the 1893/2 overdate,it is still affordable in this grade range.I get great enjoyment looking at this set.
Your Buffalo nickel set is the same,less then a handfull of coins breaking the budget,though myself personally,do not believe the 1937D three leg is necessary for complete collection.
This is just my way of collecting and spreading out the meager collecting budget.Several other posters had great ideas also
RW

What you may find if you use Hunter's method is that finding the keys and semi keys is more satisfying than filling the book. Then you may start to upgrade these coins, usually keeping the first ones you found, too.

At some point you will move on to other series, in a continual search for the most problem-free examples of the coins you like, in as scarce a date as you can find them. The best coin you can find and afford on any given day. I've been doing this for 40+ years, and it's been that long since I put a coin in a book.

I'm still a YN, and my allowance isn't quite enough to help me buy those coins costing into the thousands whenever I want to. I save up for the coins I want very slowly, selling parts of my collection along the way. Right now, I'm saving up for an 1801 bust half dollar, and believe me when I say that a VG example is quite a chunk of change (they're more expensive than a 1916-d dime or 1909-svdb). I have considerably cut back on my coin budget, and am putting all the extra cash into a separate savings account so I won't be tempted to touch it. It may take me a year or more, but eventually I'll be able to buy that coin.